actually it was birds....................

:eek:

Hey, if you look at the guest list for put it in bay, ya got Axa and ya got Bird.......................

Appears from the new avatar that he's purchased a Bajaha.

Correct!!! The Fountain owners guide prohibits the addition of frivolous non performance enhancing equiptment. :p

picked up this 40W x 4 channel Alpine to power the tweeters.

very small footprint...very excellent performance specs and features for the $. Variable HPF, pre-outs, (need them because I'm daisy-chaining the amps), DC-DC MOSFET power supply and much more. Helluva little amp for $128 (internet)

still have quite a bit to do.
pull out the 16 ga. for subs I already ran :rolleyes:
run the new 12 ga. OFC for the subs...
run/route new 18 ga OFC for the tweeters
mount and completely wire the Alpine
all the patch cables ect and most others thru the ceiling in there out-of-sight (more holes, more thru hulls fittings for grommets)
Install subs and grills
vent the cabinet door
lots of other finish work on the wiring
put the seat back together and the door back on

all I've bought this year is the Kicker subs, the Alpine amp, wire/cables/hardware and the sub grills..about $400

I'm hoping the next install is this particular stunning redhead ;)


and no...


















































it's not Peter :p

nice install (as usual).
I like the idea with the shorepower switch relocation, I might look into that as well.
Did you take out the fridge or just work around it?
What amps are driving what speakers/subs?

Thanks. I appreciate that. :)

Getting rid of that block-off panel really opens up some storage for some of the 6 8x20" fenders I carry. It gets wider and taller in there for that last 2+' before the bulkhead. I think they can all go in the one side now (starboard) and make the aft of the port side gunnel storage available for other things. This becomes more of a plus if I eventually chew up the back seat storage with enclosures for subs.
Relocating the breaker is cake.

Worked around it. Taking the closet door off was the biggest help, did that first thing.

Kenwood 529S(OE) 60W x 2 @ 4 ohms / 2 Kenwood 4x10"s in the cabin valences. They actually sound really good. I listen faded to just the cabin alot at night. I can still do that.

Kenwood 529S(OE) 80W x 2 @ 2 ohms / 4 -4 ohm Infinity's in the cockpit paralleled on each channel.

Kenwood 7252 170W x 2 @ 4 ohms / 4 8 ohm Kicker 8" Comp subs paralleled on each channel. See post #7 for the reasoning. This is the lightest power this amp makes.

Alpine MRP-F250 40W x 4 @ 4 ohms / 4 -4 ohm dome tweeters.

I can use the gain on both the latter, and the 2 way variable bass-boost on the sub amp to balance the system some.
The tweeters have inline crossovers so I'll just run the variable high-pass filter on the Alpine all the way "up" to 400Hz.
I put 100 Hz bass blockers on the 6.5" Infinity's.
The only thing I wish I had here is a sub-sonic filter on the 7252. Keeps the amp from trying to amplify below 20Hz or so.
for rock&roll I can imagine running the bass-boost +6 or 8db @ around 60-80 Hz. Just a guess.

I now have 4 system remotes. Wired at the helm, backseat (as shown on page 1), the one I put on the transom, and the wireless in the cabin.

I'm also looking at FM modulated Sirius so I can take it to the truck the rest of the year.

Make sure you get a FM modulated unit that has the antenna adaptor that goes in lin with the head unit or the reception WILL suck. I have an FM unit in my truck and had to order the in-line adaptor. The unit is only in the middle of my console less than 36" from my antenna! Just a thought, most units have a plug for an antenna extender!

Dave