oh, and added that handrail too.

so I tossed a battery in and test drove the stereo...

everything fired right up and was good-to-go

all I can say is rippem is VERY PLEASED! :D

I can't believe how hard those little Kickers hit and are quite tight, not muddy really at all. they tightened up a little too when I threw a couple of fenders in the backseat just to simulate some filling of the space. with the foam on the floor and all the other crap in there it'll only get better.
fooled with some adjustments (gain on the amps ect.) to balance things out a little.
and then played with the bass boost some listening to some different CD's. You can run the boost up to +12 db (have +18db available) @ 65-75Hz and they are still tight, and this is with some serious volume setting! and the gain on the 7252 at about 3 (about nominal).
After experimenting with gain and tone adjustments...I have the bass on the head unit backed to -2. This works well for still running the Infinity's full range. Makes their life a little easier.
I actually have the gain up pretty high on the Alpine to get the "volume" out of the tweets for staging the highs.
It's sounding t!ts.

having the two remotes at the back seat is mint!

the performance-per-new-dollar spent is excellent.

I did two free-air Pioneer 10's in the last boat. They sounded pretty good but would get muddy when pushed. I did the four 8's to end up with more cone area and a tighter sound in a free-air application. It appears to have worked out that way. :)
I hammered these tonight and this set-up sounds better for hard rock.

I realized after I started that 10's would have fit but...

Rippem, glad to hear the 4-8's worked, I don't know if 4-10's would fit with enuff spacing, definatly would need more tweeters in the boat, my 10's only get muddy if i really push up the volume past 3/4's but after that i can't even here the boat running........:D :D

PS......The handrail gives it a nice touch........

both sides of the closet door re-installed.

I don't think the vents look out of place.

I put the extinguisher that was in the closet with the other one. There was NO place to relocate it in the closet.

next project...

this settee panel had issues.
Suffice to say if you push hard enough on it enough times with your feet :D :drink:
it'll pull the screws right out of the wood.

tired of it being loose. 5/16 lags come to mind, as do flip wing toggle bolts and well nuts are another possibility.

the lags and the toggle bolts will require drilling at least the holes in the liner out larger to pass them.

1/4-20 deep shank rubber wellnuts will probably be the answer I'm looking for. I'll only have to drill the holes in the plywood larger for them. 1/4-20 cap screws will pass thru the existing holes in the liner I think. Why they don't T-nut this panel is beyond me considering all the abuse the mounting takes, if nothing else just climbing over it.

Notice how the attachments are one above the other on one side and side-by-side on the other :rolleyes:
for no good reason...
not only that, but on the side by side they then put the junction box for the tube-lit valence panel over one of the screws that hold the settee panel on.

Dig deep enough into anybody's "production boat" and you'll find attention to detail such as this. :(

It's minor crap but if I was an interior finisher who has done this a thousand times, it'd make more sense and be sturdier.

I cut the material out around the holes in the back dress panel to get wood splinters from pulling scews thru this panel as well, out

Looks like Formula may have a Velocity rigger on staff. :eek:

"For no good reason" was always a reason for them.

settee panel fixed

drilled the holes out to 1/2" in the plywood back
pushed in 1/2" x 1" long 1/4-20 well nuts
then put the dress panel on over them
3" long 1/4-20 s/s cap screws, lock washers, and flatwashers.
very secure now!

hope to not deal with this again...

Nuclearized!!!!! That's how I like it.:cool: