My friend that rebuilt the trailer, same guy that did the HP 500 motors for me, cautioned me about pumping too much grease into the bearings for that reason. Said that the chit has to go somewhere, and often it will blow the seals out, too much is as bad as not enough. He packed the bearings before install, a little when all together, and said don't get carried away. I plan to follow his advice, he is a sharp guy and I trust his opinion.

Pete,

Don't feel bad ..... the freak'in saga continues with my trailer.

The first trip to Sodus Bay last Saturday I noticed all 6 tires are chopped .... not bad for a 2008 trailer with only approx 150 miles on it.

Called the manufacture and I have 7 brand new tires arriving Monday.
What a pain in the azz.
Now, I have to re-mount the new tires. You don't just throw these boat and trailers up in the air on a lift and zip the wheels off.

Oh well it could of been worse .... it could of been a $1000.00 bill to replace them out of my pocket I suppose.

Jeff

If you guys get a chance go to the GENERAL DISCUSSION board and look up MY WAY's new pictures ......

What a freak'in weapon .....

Jeff

By the way the "Tough Guy Jap Truck" will prevail with regards to taking on any of those little Chevys and Fords .....

Let's Git'r'Done !!!!


LOL ..... LOL .......

:D:D:D:D:D

Jeff

Got to give a plug for Brett @ BBLADES here .....

After trying some different ideas from Brett .... his first thought was to try a pair of Mercury Revolution 4 props 23 pitch. They a hybird between a "round ear" prop and a "cleaver".
With my boat which has no steps on the hull and usually sits heavy in the azz end .... these props lifted the boat and have gave me an additional 6-7 mph on my GPS in the mid range. Which was exactly what I was looking for.
I lost about 100-150 rpm on the top end and about 1 - 1.5 mph at WOT. (Pete you might be able to get me now :p)

Brett really knows his chitt .....

Jeff

Yes he does, have you talked to him about keeping the mid range and getting you back the top number?

I bought the Precision 5 blades I have been testing, wasn't going to let these get away. And he has some bigger Precisions comming to start a lab program for me. This is going to be interesting. Brett sounded real confident that he can lab some larger props and get my top end up even more. These are running now at a 7% slip factor, which is real uncommon for a vee bottom. If Brett can succeed here, and I could pull a few more horses out of the Whipple re-map on the computer, I could maybe be nearing the century mark. :D Jake at HBW had an idea to piggy back the hot rod computer with the regular one, then it becomes a case of plug and play. He said he does that on his high-perf sleds and it works great. 87 octane and the stock puter every day, a shot of 93 and move the plug for those days when folks just won't leave you alone. :evilb:

You might want to have someone check the axle alingment if you are chewing up tires that quick. That just ain't right.

Did I just read that right, You have a friend?

NO!

I have never heard such a thing as "too much grease" ruining the inner seal in an
E-Z Lube spindle hub...
which you certianly should have on that (new) trailer Peter. Pretty much the standard in the industry now on any axle 3K and over. They are so easy-to-own I spec'd EZ-lube on the little 2200 Dexter I put under my snow trailer...

keep in mind also (for future reference) that there are different quality seal material/wire and wire dia. seals available depending on vendor (much like the Chinese vs. Timken bearings/races)
the price difference is negligable, knowing the difference is not!

Now with a spring loaded, (in essence, "sealed") "Bearing Buddy" installation yes, there is potential for pushing the rear seal rubber lip out, that is why you stop when the disc/cup of a Bearing Buddy is all the way out against the cap. The sealed system is fully "loaded" or pressurized with a compressed coil spring loaded disc against the grease that may well be stronger than your (sometimes aged) back seals.

again, I believe we're talking E-Z Lube spindles here...
the excess is simply pushed/dumped "forward" (out) through and past the outer bearing and out into the cap.
this is not a "sealed" or "pressurized" system in any way. if the weak pressure of a hand grease gun will push grease past that rear seal (instead of through the inner bearing/fill the void/ and out through the outer bearing) in an "open" application such as this, well...
then...
obviously those seals are bad! and it wasn't a grease gun that did them in!

This in essence is exactly how to know your inner seals are holding!
I had to replace one after a hanging drum brake super-heated and distorted it. How did I know it was shot? No grease return...get it ??

I routinely completely "change" mine on all six bearing sets simply by pumping until all the old is pushed out by the new and new grease excess shows a full dia feed out with no "voids". This is how you know/presume there are no "voids" in the bearings!!

This method will effectively "change" 90% the grease in an E-Z lube spindle/hub/bearings with no ill effects.

an air grease gun may well deliver more pulses/volume over short time than can pass through the orifices in the spindle and, more importantly, through the smaller outer bearing (out). But I doubt it, as the orifice in the spindle will always dictate the rate of delivery to the bearing and therefore against the seal.

I have owned several of both set-ups, I have R & R'd them, I know how they work, and I know how to maintain them.
The bearing and seal performance and lack of any failures over many trailers says it all.

but by all means, believe who you want, including the corner mechanic who may or may not even own a trailer.

easily done with a tape-measure and string...