TIBBC "The Thread" again...
06-01-2008 | 01:11 PM
#651
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Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 512
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From: Phoenix N.Y.
NO!
I have never heard such a thing as "too much grease" ruining the inner seal in an
E-Z Lube spindle hub...
which you certianly should have on that (new) trailer Peter. Pretty much the standard in the industry now on any axle 3K and over. They are so easy-to-own I spec'd EZ-lube on the little 2200 Dexter I put under my snow trailer...
keep in mind also (for future reference) that there are different quality seal material/wire and wire dia. seals available depending on vendor (much like the Chinese vs. Timken bearings/races)
the price difference is negligable, knowing the difference is not!
Now with a spring loaded, (in essence, "sealed") "Bearing Buddy" installation yes, there is potential for pushing the rear seal rubber lip out, that is why you stop when the disc/cup of a Bearing Buddy is all the way out against the cap. The sealed system is fully "loaded" or pressurized with a compressed coil spring loaded disc against the grease that may well be stronger than your (sometimes aged) back seals.
again, I believe we're talking E-Z Lube spindles here...
the excess is simply pushed/dumped "forward" (out) through and past the outer bearing and out into the cap.
this is not a "sealed" or "pressurized" system in any way. if the weak pressure of a hand grease gun will push grease past that rear seal (instead of through the inner bearing/fill the void/ and out through the outer bearing) in an "open" application such as this, well...
then...
obviously those seals are bad! and it wasn't a grease gun that did them in!
This in essence is exactly how to know your inner seals are holding!
I had to replace one after a hanging drum brake super-heated and distorted it. How did I know it was shot? No grease return...get it ??
I routinely completely "change" mine on all six bearing sets simply by pumping until all the old is pushed out by the new and new grease excess shows a full dia feed out with no "voids". This is how you know/presume there are no "voids" in the bearings!!
This method will effectively "change" 90% the grease in an E-Z lube spindle/hub/bearings with no ill effects.
an air grease gun may well deliver more pulses/volume over short time than can pass through the orifices in the spindle and, more importantly, through the smaller outer bearing (out). But I doubt it, as the orifice in the spindle will always dictate the rate of delivery to the bearing and therefore against the seal.
I have owned several of both set-ups, I have R & R'd them, I know how they work, and I know how to maintain them.
The bearing and seal performance and lack of any failures over many trailers says it all.
but by all means, believe who you want, including the corner mechanic who may or may not even own a trailer.
I have never heard such a thing as "too much grease" ruining the inner seal in an
E-Z Lube spindle hub...
which you certianly should have on that (new) trailer Peter. Pretty much the standard in the industry now on any axle 3K and over. They are so easy-to-own I spec'd EZ-lube on the little 2200 Dexter I put under my snow trailer...
keep in mind also (for future reference) that there are different quality seal material/wire and wire dia. seals available depending on vendor (much like the Chinese vs. Timken bearings/races)
the price difference is negligable, knowing the difference is not!
Now with a spring loaded, (in essence, "sealed") "Bearing Buddy" installation yes, there is potential for pushing the rear seal rubber lip out, that is why you stop when the disc/cup of a Bearing Buddy is all the way out against the cap. The sealed system is fully "loaded" or pressurized with a compressed coil spring loaded disc against the grease that may well be stronger than your (sometimes aged) back seals.
again, I believe we're talking E-Z Lube spindles here...
the excess is simply pushed/dumped "forward" (out) through and past the outer bearing and out into the cap.
this is not a "sealed" or "pressurized" system in any way. if the weak pressure of a hand grease gun will push grease past that rear seal (instead of through the inner bearing/fill the void/ and out through the outer bearing) in an "open" application such as this, well...
then...
obviously those seals are bad! and it wasn't a grease gun that did them in!
This in essence is exactly how to know your inner seals are holding!
I had to replace one after a hanging drum brake super-heated and distorted it. How did I know it was shot? No grease return...get it ??
I routinely completely "change" mine on all six bearing sets simply by pumping until all the old is pushed out by the new and new grease excess shows a full dia feed out with no "voids". This is how you know/presume there are no "voids" in the bearings!!
This method will effectively "change" 90% the grease in an E-Z lube spindle/hub/bearings with no ill effects.
an air grease gun may well deliver more pulses/volume over short time than can pass through the orifices in the spindle and, more importantly, through the smaller outer bearing (out). But I doubt it, as the orifice in the spindle will always dictate the rate of delivery to the bearing and therefore against the seal.
I have owned several of both set-ups, I have R & R'd them, I know how they work, and I know how to maintain them.
The bearing and seal performance and lack of any failures over many trailers says it all.
but by all means, believe who you want, including the corner mechanic who may or may not even own a trailer.
06-01-2008 | 06:51 PM
#652
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 5,325
Likes: 112
From: Northern NY
He's a machinist, a mechanic, owned his own machine and mechanical shop for some 27 years. Is considered to be one of, if not the best engine guy in this area for the last 27 some odd years. Hauled a race car for years as well as horse trailers all over he!!s half acres. Not saying you are wrong, just put a lot of faith in his opinions.
The trailer is an '06, transfered to me on the MSO, kinda makes it "close" to new. The value placed on it in the deal was 4500.00, take it or leave it, real simple deal. Bill would have built me a new one at dealer cost, but why spend the extra money? I trailer soooooooooooooooo much.
06-01-2008 | 08:15 PM
#653
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 2,896
Likes: 3
From: Eastern Lake Ontario
Randy, I agree with everything you explained and I'll add one more thing - Bearing Buddy type greasers end up overfilling the hub. I'm not talking overfilling in terms of pushing past the rear seal, I'm just talking too much grease period. As Pete's guy said, overgreasing is as bad as insuficient greasing. Excessive heat builds and breaks the grease down.
The spindle type grease setup is definitely a slick deal. You CANNOT overgrease it. As you said, it is intended to allow grease replacement just by pumping it through. The literature does still recommend periodic disassembly and manual repacking though.
So Pete, does your trailer have the spindle type grease design?
The spindle type grease setup is definitely a slick deal. You CANNOT overgrease it. As you said, it is intended to allow grease replacement just by pumping it through. The literature does still recommend periodic disassembly and manual repacking though.
So Pete, does your trailer have the spindle type grease design?
06-01-2008 | 08:57 PM
#654
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Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 4,815
Likes: 42
From: 1000 Islands
I'll be getting more intimate with mine this summer as I'm converting to EOH 13" Kodiak discs on all 3 axles, BrakeRite SD, the whole enchalada...
already have 8 new tires in stock here at the ranch...
know just what I want for toolboxes...
already have 8 new tires in stock here at the ranch...
know just what I want for toolboxes...
06-01-2008 | 09:01 PM
#655
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 5,325
Likes: 112
From: Northern NY
Yes it does, and what my "GUY" saying is that a grease gun can't take the place of checking chit out and repacking, the interval depending on use. The problem with this trailer was the salt water. Salt water does chit that fresh water couldn't do in years of exposure. Every single bearing was pitted and ready to fail. When talking to Bill at Performance about this he told me that the salt corrosion will eat it's way under the seals and get into the grease and bearings unless you religiously flush and wash down after every dunking. The grease in the thing was rust brown and full of water. Als opinion (my guy) was that the damage was already done before I ever left Massachusetts with the F'n thing, and that a 55 gal. drum of grease would not have saved the bearings. It's all rebuilt now, goes down the road fine, bearings stay cool, at least at less than 90 mph, all is good.
Always been a believer that your boat should go faster on the water than on the F'n trailer. 50 - 55 down the road works fine for me, I can wait for the 90+ numbers.
06-01-2008 | 09:19 PM
#657
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 5,325
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From: Northern NY
Not really it works just fine, and I actually do drive the truck every day, afterall that is why I bought it.
If you would like to compare on the water I'd be glad to oblige.
06-02-2008 | 11:46 AM
#658
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,000
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From: B'ville, NY
So does this mean I can drop the MYCO off for service next week?
06-02-2008 | 11:48 AM
#659
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,000
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From: B'ville, NY
While you're tryin' to spin that piece of crap into its 5000rpm HP and Torque range, the Duramax will be draggin' you around in circles......
