Hello all....I have a 86F3LS and have been restoring it for the last 3 years. I am getting ready to pull the old 5.7l 260hp engine and put my brand new roller motor. I plan on "restoring" the engine compartment and have some questions.

1)The batteries are mounted in Gil offshore boxes. They are mounted 3/4 of the way up on each side from the transom.Since this thing is so ass-heavy is there any reason I can't move them up as far as possible to give me more room and put some more weight forward (if only a foot or two) Also the Gil boxes are just screwed in the bottom of the bilge. What is the best way to mount them. I was figuring to tap into the spot and coat the screw with expoy to hold the screws in....

2)What tips on preping and painting the compartment can anyone give?

3)I don't want to shell out $300 for Mercruiser's remote oil filter kit. I purchased a TD Premium remote kit for Auto for about $200 less. I figured to mount this on the transom. Does anyone have a problem with this?

Thanks all
"Bad-Habit"

Hi randy, I replied to your email. Also as to moving the batteries I would maybe consider putting them under the back seat. I striped mine down to glass then painted it with Easy Poxy Platnum Grey.Holds up real well and cleans up nice if you spill oil.Color is pretty close to original paint.I also ground down some of the imperfections in the glasswork in engine compartment prior to painting. Rerun all new wiring for blowers,bildge pumps before dropping in the engine. Good Luck, Mark B.
P.S. Boilerdaddy, Its what this board started for isnt it.seems it has taken a strange turn with some of these threads lately.

Boiler dady remove a post?

I think that any good epoxy paint will do well for you. Take your time with the Prep work. Prep prep prep. I recommend against gel unless you are going to have some one that REALLY knows their stuff paint it. I had a guy do mine and it never dried.

Jon

I have a 1985 F3-LS and was thinking about the same thing. As Audiofn said PREP is the key. Any top side epoxy should work, as they hold up very well also I think the nap of the roller will make or break the job, I would talk with the paint supplier, and tell them where your painting.

Let me know how you make out

Tom

I saw this recommended on another board.
http://us.yachtpaint.com/usa/product...ePageID=6660#1

Jon's right about the gel-coat. Gel-coat only hardens as air is taken away from it (anaerobic compound). If you notice, any of the gel repair kits you buy at West Marine etc. have a small piece of "saran wrap" type material in the box. Once the spot is repaired, you either have to cover it with the saran wrap or wax paper or something. If not, it will dry to a certain point, but never completely. You can always stick a fingernail into it. Use a good epoxy paint and take your time during prep. Remember, it's all in the details and the preparation. Good luck!

Jon, I never removed a post. I think Mark was just talking about how there are more threads on boaters lending each other a hand technically, as opposed to some of those way-out threads (a la supercrash).

I just finished reworking the engine compartment on my 252SS. I used West marine BilgeCoat. I really stripped the compartment bare & used a very high detergent industrial cleaner & wire brush to get the old cracked & loose paint off. Then I scrapped and sanded. I could not believe it, but I found out two of the bilge drains from different stringer compartments were still glassed over from the Formula factory !! Needless to say, I always wondered what had them stopped up, & it turned out to be a factory defect!! I used my Dremel tool to cut out the glass & then smoothed the holes with epoxy. After patching all screw holes & washing it again, I washed & wiped it down with acetone & clean rags. I then painted. Used a full quart of light grey bilge coat, went to buy another and found they no longer make that color !! No longer available from the factory either. Called dealers in another state and found the product for much less money per quart but it is classed as a "hazardous material" and costs an arm & leg to UPS. What ever you use, be sure you have enough on hand to finish the job. Mine turned out wonderfully. Really a good paint for this purpose.