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Originally Posted by BUIZILLA
(Post 2719617)
the inner tie bar connects both tiller arms
the helm has not been dissected yet... in fact, the boat is totally intact, uncleaned, on it's trailer, and undisturbed right now awaiting teardown analysis (this is where the big jerkoff comes in)... the cable broke through the lining and wrapped itself up OUTSIDE the lining at the steering valve juncture... nobody has EVER seen this scenario of events but, clearly, somebody screwed up, definately NOT an owner/operator issue.... if he gets jerked around any more this coming week, it will be displayed for EVERYBODY to see at the Ft Lauderdale and Miami Boat Shows within his own vendor display for public opinion that's for sure, leftover bloody paramedics gloves and all, hopefully it shouldn't come to that, but he's getting REAL pissed off and he WILL do it if pushed... it's too bad to, it was a beautiful boat and he love's Formula's.. It could be alot of things , cable manufacture issue, and on and on. I would have hydraulic steering instaled and be safe. Still sorry to hear that somebody got insured. |
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I run 2 extermal tie bars an my '89 with no bind as long as the are trimmed equally:cool:
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Originally Posted by BUIZILLA
(Post 2719617)
the cable broke through the lining and wrapped itself up OUTSIDE the lining at the steering valve juncture... nobody has EVER seen this scenario of events but, clearly, somebody screwed up, definately NOT an owner/operator issue
The key to having two tie bars is perfectly parallel trim, regardless of where the two tie bars are mounted. It's a very simple concept that four rigid lines always need to form the same plane if there is to be minimal stress on the corners. With an external tie bar, two of those corners happen to be the upper swivel shafts in the gimble ring. Trim drives seperately, and the stress goes through the hinge pins and the swivel shaft. This might be one of those rare multi-causal scenarios. |
Just a thought here .... wonder if the Drive indicators were off?
You would think the drives were even all the time when in fact they would always place a strain on the Drive train. Didn't you mention that the boat handled strangly? Seems it have to be way out of adjustment to cause the kind of strain that could cause all the damage you have described ....m |
If the gimbal was cracked first, no cable would hold up to the violence of the drive trying to depart the boat.
I would assume that Mercury gives Formula very explicit directions on how to install and rig the drives, and that Formula does exactly what Mercury specifies. My feeling is that this ball lies very much squarely in the middle of Mercury's court, not Formula's. Weak gimbals are a well-know fault of the Bravo design. |
we've had some VERY interesting private feedback from other owners with like concerns.... seems to be a quiet hush-hush trend... might not be quiet any more...
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Very little or no play should be there. When I bought my 292 it didn't have hydraulic steering, after about 100hrs, give or take, I noticed I was getting play, when it got to about 2-4", I had the gimbil repaired and hydraulic steering installed. Go back to your drives and see if you can move them by hand, side to side, if they move, then you have problems. Get them tightened up and steering installed. If you hit a wake the wrong way you could brake a gimbil and have a real problem, maybe even get hurt from the accedent that may happen. Not all fastech's come with hydraulic steering, they should though.
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Originally Posted by Live Wire II
(Post 2731095)
I had the gimbil repaired and hydraulic steering installed.
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I don't know if I didn't say it or not, but I had FULL hydraulic installed. That is the only way to go.
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