Need advise!!
03-15-2011, 09:40 AM
#11
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The Bravo is going to be your weak link as you already know, but there are a lot of things that can be done to help reliability. High HP and a single is even tougher on the drive then high HP and twins, but you wouldnt be the first to do it. I was on a few Bravo threads with a guy who has over 1000hp in a single 272 Baja. The biggest issue he has is tearing up lower gear sets. I'm running 750/800hp through mine with good results, but I'm very diligent with maintenance.
A dual ram full hydraulic steering, 280 K-planes, HP transom assembly, Bravo XR, and offshore mount(nothing lag bolted, all thru bolted) would all seem mandatory. The K-planes, while not mandatory to dial in the boat, will sure help when the weather turns bad. An extension box couldnt hurt, and if in the budget, should add stability to the combo.
A couple simple upgrades to the Bravo XR to help it last with high HP would be a billet top cap, hard shimmed pinion, upgraded clutch shaft, upgraded vertical shaft, hard shimmed lower prop shaft, and a good drive shower. I'm also running IMCO extension boxes with there torsional input shafts, which help absorb and cushion high torque loads.
Good luck
LE
A dual ram full hydraulic steering, 280 K-planes, HP transom assembly, Bravo XR, and offshore mount(nothing lag bolted, all thru bolted) would all seem mandatory. The K-planes, while not mandatory to dial in the boat, will sure help when the weather turns bad. An extension box couldnt hurt, and if in the budget, should add stability to the combo.
A couple simple upgrades to the Bravo XR to help it last with high HP would be a billet top cap, hard shimmed pinion, upgraded clutch shaft, upgraded vertical shaft, hard shimmed lower prop shaft, and a good drive shower. I'm also running IMCO extension boxes with there torsional input shafts, which help absorb and cushion high torque loads.
Good luck
LE
03-15-2011, 10:15 AM
#12
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Originally Posted by [email protected]
I had a 800hp motor in the boat "93 271" Old school Bravo is fine but get it up to 50+ MPH before hammering on it, Mine lasted 3 years. I ran single ram Hyd steering but, That's all the money I had at the time. I went with IMCo with the Duel wing plate so I can upgrade later. Def. in the 80's. I'll be exp. with a shorty this spring, Keep us posted and Good luck!
What motor are you running now? What was your top speed, what prop did you use? I will go with the dual ram set up for the steering. Let us know the results of the shorty.
Brad
03-15-2011, 10:28 AM
#13
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Thread Starter
The Bravo is going to be your weak link as you already know, but there are a lot of things that can be done to help reliability. High HP and a single is even tougher on the drive then high HP and twins, but you wouldnt be the first to do it. I was on a few Bravo threads with a guy who has over 1000hp in a single 272 Baja. The biggest issue he has is tearing up lower gear sets. I'm running 750/800hp through mine with good results, but I'm very diligent with maintenance.
A dual ram full hydraulic steering, 280 K-planes, HP transom assembly, Bravo XR, and offshore mount(nothing lag bolted, all thru bolted) would all seem mandatory. The K-planes, while not mandatory to dial in the boat, will sure help when the weather turns bad. An extension box couldnt hurt, and if in the budget, should add stability to the combo.
A couple simple upgrades to the Bravo XR to help it last with high HP would be a billet top cap, hard shimmed pinion, upgraded clutch shaft, upgraded vertical shaft, hard shimmed lower prop shaft, and a good drive shower. I'm also running IMCO extension boxes with there torsional input shafts, which help absorb and cushion high torque loads.
Good luck
LE
A dual ram full hydraulic steering, 280 K-planes, HP transom assembly, Bravo XR, and offshore mount(nothing lag bolted, all thru bolted) would all seem mandatory. The K-planes, while not mandatory to dial in the boat, will sure help when the weather turns bad. An extension box couldnt hurt, and if in the budget, should add stability to the combo.
A couple simple upgrades to the Bravo XR to help it last with high HP would be a billet top cap, hard shimmed pinion, upgraded clutch shaft, upgraded vertical shaft, hard shimmed lower prop shaft, and a good drive shower. I'm also running IMCO extension boxes with there torsional input shafts, which help absorb and cushion high torque loads.
Good luck
LE
Part of me says try the B1 and see what happens, the other part tells me dont risk that drive coming apart and hurting my wife and daughter when the boat goes out of control. Can the boat sink when the drive lets go?
Thanks for your help!
Brad
Brad
03-15-2011, 11:32 PM
#15
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Thread Starter
I am hoping to make a deal with the guy in the swap shop for one of those drives he has!! I will try to find the ACE package you are referring to and compare the prices he is asking to what just buying it all new would cost.
I am talking to a guy local to me that has a Cobra race boat for sale. He has a 867hp blower motor running it through a IMCO ext box, Bravo upper and Sportmaster lower with dual ram steering. I am trying to trade him my built vette and a new 4 wheeler I dont use. I will take his power out, put my stock 502mpi and b1 on his boat and sell it to get my money back. I would then get all the components I need pretty much for free and end up with a 10hr blower motor for sale as well. Heck, I might make some money to put toward my boat!!
Thanks for the help guys.
Brad
I am talking to a guy local to me that has a Cobra race boat for sale. He has a 867hp blower motor running it through a IMCO ext box, Bravo upper and Sportmaster lower with dual ram steering. I am trying to trade him my built vette and a new 4 wheeler I dont use. I will take his power out, put my stock 502mpi and b1 on his boat and sell it to get my money back. I would then get all the components I need pretty much for free and end up with a 10hr blower motor for sale as well. Heck, I might make some money to put toward my boat!!
Thanks for the help guys.
Brad
03-16-2011, 12:54 AM
#16
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It will be REAL had to get a Bravo to last with that kind of power. Even an imco or .... will not last real good with that kidn of power and the weight of your boat. Konrad Ace would do it and also give you a stand off box at the same time. Still not a cheap option but it is rated for 800hp and 800ft pounds of torque.
What is the price for a new Konrad ACE set up?
Brad
03-16-2011, 01:53 AM
#17
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Contact a member by the name of "Biggus" on the board. He can tell you if you would be able to buy just the ACE box and tranny or if you would need to go with the entire set up and also give you pricing.
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03-16-2011, 06:33 AM
#18
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So the Baja and you are running B1's or Xr's? Does someone sell a Xr built as you described above?
Part of me says try the B1 and see what happens, the other part tells me dont risk that drive coming apart and hurting my wife and daughter when the boat goes out of control. Can the boat sink when the drive lets go?
Thanks for your help!
Brad
Brad
Part of me says try the B1 and see what happens, the other part tells me dont risk that drive coming apart and hurting my wife and daughter when the boat goes out of control. Can the boat sink when the drive lets go?
Thanks for your help!
Brad
Brad
Not sure what the Baja guy has done to his. Mine are 2003 Bravo XR uppers, IMCO 1" shorty's with upgraded shafts and Merc gears. All the upgrades I mentioned I did myself with help and advise from MaxMachine Worx, out of Lake Havasu.
As far as drive failure and sinking goes. you would have to rip the drive off the boat by the gimbal ring and bellhousing, which would let water run in thru the u-joint bellows. Not likely to happen unless you hit something really big, or maybe run the boat in 6 footers at 80mph while try to turn(seen a race boat break a gimbal ring on some you tube video). Either can happen on most any drive system.
Most Bravo failures due to over powering will by shafts or gear failures.
I talked to the Conrad guys at the Miami boat show this year. Currently all there drive setups use an external transmission(borg warner 72c series). So the setup you are talking about needs to have the Conrad Bravo conversion with the trans in a extension box(that lets you keep the engine in its current location). If not you need to remount the engine 12" foward of its current mount to make room for the transmission. Dont know if your bilge will allow that?
The HP transom assembly offers a slightly stronger gimbal ring and bellhousing(added security), but you can bolt any B1 or XR to your std transom assembly (you might have to change the gimbal bearing to the later style, $100). A dual ram hyd steering setup is whats going to keep the boat safest.
LE
Last edited by LAKE EFFECT; 03-16-2011 at 06:38 AM.
03-16-2011, 07:10 AM
#19
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Will do, I think if I go Konrad, I will just buy the complete set up from him instead of mix matching and needing to keep buy parts to make the 540's work with the ACE.
I will PM biggus for price.
thanks guys
Brad
03-16-2011, 07:14 AM
#20
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Thread Starter
Not sure what the Baja guy has done to his. Mine are 2003 Bravo XR uppers, IMCO 1" shorty's with upgraded shafts and Merc gears. All the upgrades I mentioned I did myself with help and advise from MaxMachine Worx, out of Lake Havasu.
As far as drive failure and sinking goes. you would have to rip the drive off the boat by the gimbal ring and bellhousing, which would let water run in thru the u-joint bellows. Not likely to happen unless you hit something really big, or maybe run the boat in 6 footers at 80mph while try to turn(seen a race boat break a gimbal ring on some you tube video). Either can happen on most any drive system.
Most Bravo failures due to over powering will by shafts or gear failures.
I talked to the Conrad guys at the Miami boat show this year. Currently all there drive setups use an external transmission(borg warner 72c series). So the setup you are talking about needs to have the Conrad Bravo conversion with the trans in a extension box(that lets you keep the engine in its current location). If not you need to remount the engine 12" foward of its current mount to make room for the transmission. Dont know if your bilge will allow that?
The HP transom assembly offers a slightly stronger gimbal ring and bellhousing(added security), but you can bolt any B1 or XR to your std transom assembly (you might have to change the gimbal bearing to the later style, $100). A dual ram hyd steering setup is whats going to keep the boat safest.
LE
As far as drive failure and sinking goes. you would have to rip the drive off the boat by the gimbal ring and bellhousing, which would let water run in thru the u-joint bellows. Not likely to happen unless you hit something really big, or maybe run the boat in 6 footers at 80mph while try to turn(seen a race boat break a gimbal ring on some you tube video). Either can happen on most any drive system.
Most Bravo failures due to over powering will by shafts or gear failures.
I talked to the Conrad guys at the Miami boat show this year. Currently all there drive setups use an external transmission(borg warner 72c series). So the setup you are talking about needs to have the Conrad Bravo conversion with the trans in a extension box(that lets you keep the engine in its current location). If not you need to remount the engine 12" foward of its current mount to make room for the transmission. Dont know if your bilge will allow that?
The HP transom assembly offers a slightly stronger gimbal ring and bellhousing(added security), but you can bolt any B1 or XR to your std transom assembly (you might have to change the gimbal bearing to the later style, $100). A dual ram hyd steering setup is whats going to keep the boat safest.
LE
If I can ever get out of Afghanistan!!
Brad
