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Originally Posted by alj
(Post 4732691)
Pics of Oconnor's breaker panels under the helm and back seat????? That will put this to rest.
if you go ahead just make sure whatever you do each circuit has a breaker or a fuse. |
I rewired my helm and used new wire marine, everything came prewired on the panel and all wires labeled....
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OK back to the topic, has anybody purchased the switches I posted? I am in need of 2 and was hoping for some feedback.
If Oconner Marine said that is how it came I would take it at face value. It would be interesting to see how they wired it and why different from others. The factory under dash wiring on these boats look WAY sub standard, in my opinion. Every thing else is soo top quality, what a shame. Any feedback welcome. Thank you and bee safe. |
Originally Posted by GLENAMY 242SS
(Post 4734575)
OK back to the topic, has anybody purchased the switches I posted? I am in need of 2 and was hoping for some feedback.
If Oconner Marine said that is how it came I would take it at face value. It would be interesting to see how they wired it and why different from others. The factory under dash wiring on these boats look WAY sub standard, in my opinion. Every thing else is soo top quality, what a shame. Any feedback welcome. Thank you and bee safe. here is a photo of my 272 at my camp. |
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Breakers
Original
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Originally Posted by oconnor marine
(Post 4740614)
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...7af2e80098.jpg |
Thanks for the update Oconnor. I'm almost afraid to post this. I'm not really trying to be a jerk but you need to read my post #30 in this thread. You no doubt have experience with boats. But the pictues you just posted actually prove the point I have been making all along. You posted a picture in post #65 of the switches in your dashboard. I explained in post #30 that there are TWO circuits for the bilge pump> One is the automatic one protected by the breaker on the panel in the picture in your post #87. The other circuit is directly from the switch so you can manually turn on and off the bilge pump. No breaker switch = no protection for the wire from the dash switch to the bilge pump = possible fire. The breaker for "interior lights" is for the cabin lights. You have no breakers for "Courtesy Lights","Bilge Pump" (manual), "Depth Sounder", "Port Docking Light", "Stbd Docking Light", "Dash Lights", "Anchor Lights, "Nav Lights". Your boat originally came with a 3" thick three ring binder that Formula puts together for each boat they built. The wiring diagrams were included in that binder along with catalogs from Mercury, VDO guages, Owners manuals for the engines and drives, Manufacturers installation manuals for all the equipment, and the engines and drives. You name it , it's in that binder. The wiring diagrams are not some generic diagram from Mercury or other source. It is put together by Formula for every specific boat that was built. The 272 diagram is different than the 311 diagram, and different than the 357 diagram, and different than the 402 diagram, etc. If you have the binder look at the wiring diagram carefully. Look for how the electricity flows from the battery to the switches and then to the device. You will see by studying the correct diagram that those dash switches must have an internal breaker or a breaker just before the switch. I implore anyone to obtain the correct wiring diagrams for your boat if you do not have the binder. Many of us on here at OSO would be happy to send you a copy, or just call Formula. There are two or three of us in this thread that by our own foolishness or by the ignorance of a previous owner found out the hard way not to screw up what Formula designed our electrical systems to do. There are a lot of instances of all kinds of boats catching fire due to the same foolishness, that aren't even a part of this thread. For the 2 or 3 of us that dealt with this, we simply want to put out the warning not to do what was done to O'connors boat. When people see these cool lighted tip stainless toggles, or are frustrated that the original breaker/switches can't be found anywhere; we become tempted to listen to someone who did it wrong, or bought a used boat that someone else did wrong. The consequences of this bad advice could be fatal. Oconnor, you have nine switches that have no breakers on them. I count 15 plugged openings in the breaker panels you are showing above. The original push/pull breakers for those panels are still readily available. Figure out (from the correct Formula wiring diagram) what each of those switches should have had for a circuit breaker amperage and get some breakers in those blank holes. Run a little bit of wire back and forth to the dash switch panel. Then you can rest assured that you and your loved ones are safe. And when you sell the boat, you can sleep easy knowing that you didn't endanger someone else's life. And a a special bonus, you have some truly Kick-Ass looking switch gear in the dash. It completely blows away the look of the original lighted red rockers! I feel very strongly about this because my family could have been killed because some idiot that owned one of my boats previously didn't know what the hell he was doing and circumvented the breakers. Fires in boats are not good. Get the wiring diagram and figure this out correctly.
Al Janus |
Originally Posted by alj
(Post 4740672)
Thanks for the update Oconnor. I'm almost afraid to post this. I'm not really trying to be a jerk but you need to read my post #30 in this thread. You no doubt have experience with boats. But the pictues you just posted actually prove the point I have been making all along. You posted a picture in post #65 of the switches in your dashboard. I explained in post #30 that there are TWO circuits for the bilge pump> One is the automatic one protected by the breaker on the panel in the picture in your post #87. The other circuit is directly from the switch so you can manually turn on and off the bilge pump. No breaker switch = no protection for the wire from the dash switch to the bilge pump = possible fire. The breaker for "interior lights" is for the cabin lights. You have no breakers for "Courtesy Lights","Bilge Pump" (manual), "Depth Sounder", "Port Docking Light", "Stbd Docking Light", "Dash Lights", "Anchor Lights, "Nav Lights". Your boat originally came with a 3" thick three ring binder that Formula puts together for each boat they built. The wiring diagrams were included in that binder along with catalogs from Mercury, VDO guages, Owners manuals for the engines and drives, Manufacturers installation manuals for all the equipment, and the engines and drives. You name it , it's in that binder. The wiring diagrams are not some generic diagram from Mercury or other source. It is put together by Formula for every specific boat that was built. The 272 diagram is different than the 311 diagram, and different than the 357 diagram, and different than the 402 diagram, etc. If you have the binder look at the wiring diagram carefully. Look for how the electricity flows from the battery to the switches and then to the device. You will see by studying the correct diagram that those dash switches must have an internal breaker or a breaker just before the switch. I implore anyone to obtain the correct wiring diagrams for your boat if you do not have the binder. Many of us on here at OSO would be happy to send you a copy, or just call Formula. There are two or three of us in this thread that by our own foolishness or by the ignorance of a previous owner found out the hard way not to screw up what Formula designed our electrical systems to do. There are a lot of instances of all kinds of boats catching fire due to the same foolishness, that aren't even a part of this thread. For the 2 or 3 of us that dealt with this, we simply want to put out the warning not to do what was done to O'connors boat. When people see these cool lighted tip stainless toggles, or are frustrated that the original breaker/switches can't be found anywhere; we become tempted to listen to someone who did it wrong, or bought a used boat that someone else did wrong. The consequences of this bad advice could be fatal. Oconnor, you have nine switches that have no breakers on them. I count 15 plugged openings in the breaker panels you are showing above. The original push/pull breakers for those panels are still readily available. Figure out (from the correct Formula wiring diagram) what each of those switches should have had for a circuit breaker amperage and get some breakers in those blank holes. Run a little bit of wire back and forth to the dash switch panel. Then you can rest assured that you and your loved ones are safe. And when you sell the boat, you can sleep easy knowing that you didn't endanger someone else's life. And a a special bonus, you have some truly Kick-Ass looking switch gear in the dash. It completely blows away the look of the original lighted red rockers! I feel very strongly about this because my family could have been killed because some idiot that owned one of my boats previously didn't know what the hell he was doing and circumvented the breakers. Fires in boats are not good. Get the wiring diagram and figure this out correctly.
Al Janus |
Hey o'connor, I'm really sorry. I'm sure this seems like I'm bashing you. I am really passionate about this because of how close I came to a disaster. There is no other breaker panel Bud. If that switch you posted is what you think is the original lighted toggle that was provided by Formula when the boat was built, it isn't. Looks like a cheap unit from an automotive supplier like Del-City distributors or something. Check who the manufacturer of the switch is. It should be marked on the switch case. Formula only used top quality components like VDO, Carling, Ritchie, Livorsi, ETA,etc. Hell, they use aircraft components in the bolsters, and for the door latches on the head compartment and galley doors. That switch.... no way.
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