271 sr-1 on a loadrite with rollers
 

I have the boat in the driveway and have a little time to fix a few things. I don't think the trailer had been used much by the previous owner, so I've been going through it. My skeg has 15" of ground clearance while the front mid hull has 27" ground clearance. With all this ground clearance, I really have to fight on the launch ramp. How much ground clearance is appropriate? My boat looks like it is excited to see me. Anyone have a suggestion on how to make the adjustments on the trailer?

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Bunks are always better for the boat than rollers. But rollers are easier to get the boat on and off the trailer at crappy ramps. I would say if you can, switch it to bunks, shouldn't be hard, that could raise your boat up if done right. Also looks like your boat is a little to heavy on that trailer. The clarence on the tires and wheel well is small. If you don't want to switch axels I guess go slow and maybe try bunks to raise the boat higher up on the trailer.

Another thing to think about is how long is the travel? If you are just putting it in and taking it out 2 or 3 times a year and the ramp is 5 minutes away, I wouldn't change it. If its your every day trailer and going all over all the time, man up and fix it.

I had a similar problem with mine and I removed the rollers and replaced them with bunks. Before, my boat was about 6 inches over the fenders. now, it sits just above them. I also have a load rite trailer. This is how it sits now...
http://i568.photobucket.com/albums/s...a/IMG_9277.jpg

thanks for the replies. My experience for the most part has been with an in and out service, up to a couple of years ago. (could be why the boat is rigged so high on the trailer) I’ve trailered the boat about 15 times in the last 2 years, some of these trips are 10 miles, others are 200 miles. The NJ coast, has heavy tidal flow, tides coming in and out, sometimes as much as 6-8 feet, there is always current and last but not least, the short launch ramps where the tires fall off the cliff. There is a wide variety from the good, bad and ugly. Most of the water is dark, so you can’t see the fenders when submerged. What I meant to say in my post, is the boat is too high, which requires 38 to 42" of water to make it float, by that time, my truck is up to its rear axle. I need to drop it down on the trailer. I'm not sure about the clearance between the wheel and fender, but I'm concerned about how much is the standard clearance for the skeg. Loadrite rep said to order a pivot bar for the front rollers that matches the back, and it will bring it down, about (5 inches) at the front pivot bar. My winch bar is adjustable, so now I'm thinking of upgrading the winch pad, eliminating the front rollers and pushing the boat forward about 4 inches, which would transfer the front weight to the winch pad, (hopefully improving the ride in the truck) without the front rollers and perched on the rear rollers. Bunks? How are they in current (tidal flow) to get the boat on straight?

In my world I'd simply sell it and go get the right trailer, does that boat have a 500hp?

502 efi 415hp black motor. So I should just buy a new one.

k, one of these was on a similiar trailer with a blue motor a while back almost bought it, as far as trailer goes I would consider looking into it, might not be a whole lotta money to get into a new alum bunk trailer, I'd check the prices then maybe list your trailer and see what happens, someones always looking for a trl like that for there cruiser

How much do you want the trailer? I have a 242LS with a small block and that trailer should be good for it.

SRDrago, I haven't given up on the loadrite yet. The trailer is rated for 7400, w gvw of 9400. My boat is 5400 dry.
Thanks again for the help on the board. I’m afraid I’m still in the “I don’t know what I don’t know” phase of learning about my set up, even though I’ve had it for years. I’ve concluded after watching Youtube videos of launches and retrievals of boats on roller trailers, I don’t need to float my boat off the trailer. The videos show how to use the boat’s power to get it on and off under the boat’s power making use of the trailer rollers. This I haven’t done and will attempt next time at the ramp. My GF is intimidated by the launching process has only gone as far as giving me an extra eye while backing up the rig. Some questions remain, while retrieving the boat, powering up to the winch post; what would keep it from sliding back, while I turn it off, jump out, and attach the winch? I saw some a video in New Zealand where one guy was powering up on the trailer, while the winch man was between the bow and the winch post fastening the cable, omg! I saw another one where the guy left the boat in forward, jumped out, ran around and attached his winch cable. Some people are more adventurous then I am.
In the meantime, I am going to lower the boat in the trailer by spreading, or widening the pivots as they are attached to the trailer cross members, which will take the rollers out of the 1st and 2nd step in the hull, and adjust them to the 2nd and 3rd hull steps. I am currently researching the stringer locations. Given the adjustment, the bow should drop about 5 inches in the trailer. I am going to move my winch post forward about 4 inches, which should place my rear rollers about 2 inches from the transom, and replace the awful twin rubber V bow stop with a single bow roller and have the eye located underneath, for much easier, safer access. I may add a keel roller to the forward trailer cross member. Last note, with the winch post positioned forward, moving the center of gravity forward, should make the rig handle better. Please advise;

It just takes some practice and zoning that trailer in to work for you. Have you tried different ramps? Hey since your from Jersey drag that boat up to the Rendezvous July 16th, I will give you a hand launching it and try to help you with what I know. I trailer my 26pc all the time and drop it in on various ramps and I launch my pops 312 all the time, I can share some pointers to help ease the process.