Originally Posted by Expensive Date

I have thought about putting mechanical trim drive indicators in,but do not want to redo my dash to make it look factory.I also am kinda bored with my boat so will just make sure the next boat has them.

The baffles were not real hard to get out they are also stainless steel so the welds can't flex much before they break.I started by grinding some off the weld with a carbide burr and then......Man I'm going to get flamed for this used gently an air chisel with a inside muffler cutter.I just held it over the weld tapped the trigger and the weld broke.Once you get a few of the welds broke you can grab it with a pair of long angled needle nose,just keep moving back and forth the rest of the weld will break.I did most of them with just the chisel this cause no damage at all to tips.I did take my time though.You could also replace the tips but it really did not take to long once I got the hang of it first couple took longer.

I did not do this at first only removed the outside one (there are two) I had lost about 100 rpm when I did my exhaust.But I had also done a prop change so I really did not think much of it.But then I was looking at a picture that Tim Sharkey took of my boat and it looked like the water in the exhaust was coming out under a lot of pressure.When I removed them the 100 rpms was back.I did not know that fastechs come with labbed props so when I replaced them I just put regular 28s on that was the prop change.Hope this helps any questions ask.

Tim

Originally Posted by Expensive Date

I have never looked down upon you,like I tell some people I lived in Brooklyn for 9 years and made a living with gun belt on my waist so I may come off a little strong sometimes.
One thing I will always speak out on is trim settings on a stepped hull.When I bought my boat I went from a Jet Ski to the Formula.Most of what the salesman taught me was wrong and I realized I was way over my head.I spent a day with a friend, Martin Sanborn who was at the time one of the VPs of Fountain had raced for years and is now running the P1 circuit.Martin taught me the theory of how to run a stepped hull,not do this when it does that.The 292s are not an aggressive hull so they are probably hard to spin but it can be done.We have a new boat owner come on and gets the worst possible advice about how to trim his boat,other members agree and you have a problem with my response.
What you have done at your age is impressive,but I have learned that sometimes trying to save money costs more in the long run.This is going back to the drive shower comment.I can make 400 dollars in less time than I could make drive showers.Maybe you can't yet but you will be able to someday and then you will understand what I meant.

Originally Posted by rocket ride

Expensive Date.....you must ahve been readin' my mind. I've been wanting to rip the pinwheels out for months......too quite, I like to hear my girls singin'. I reviewed you Youtube bit with your starboard engine runnin'.........AWSOME!! I have Captian's Choice, so I can shut it off when needed, but did the exhaust get Really loud, or just throatier??.thanks....dave

Originally Posted by Expensive Date

Its about twice as loud,not as loud as say a 525 with headers but it sounds pretty good for a small block.The only thing you may not like is at about 1000 rpm say in a no wake there is a slight noise vibration because the swim platform is close to the water.You don't hear it at 750-800 just if you bump the rpms up a little.Its no big deal just wanted you to know.I did not do it to make it loud but because there was too much back pressure going through hull with the props blocked off.I had lost about 150 rpms.When I took them out it was back.

Originally Posted by Berglund

For installing K's, you need to reglass/gel the old holes and drill new ones. The tricky thing is that the two outer most screws will enter between the pre-fabricated stringer system and the outer hull. So you need to take up quite big holes inside the stringer system to reach in to be able to tighten those screws. Other than that, it's no big hussle.

For electrical and pump installation i mounted my new pumps just aft of the powertrim pumps, and jumped 12V+ and ground from them. In the panel, you need to remove the jumpers from the switches and then you can use the existing wireing and connector from the Bennets to continue from.

That's about it!

Originally Posted by 08 fastech 292

Mine runs 68 WOT and will nudge 70 if conditions are just right. I had my stock 28P props labbed by BBlades. He put in a little tip cup to help with hole shot and it seems to give more mid-range bite as well. Boat cruises at 52 MPH, 3,800 rpms.

Originally Posted by rocket ride

Thanks for the tips, Berglund. What's a good price for the entire kit??

Originally Posted by rocket ride

Thanks for the info Expensive Date. I plan to use a dremell with a very small tip to grind the tack welds and weaken them till I can work the pin wheel loose. You mentioned that there are 2 baffles?? Is there another behind the pin wheel??.....thanks for your input.