My new project - 86 - 272 LS
Gold Member
07-03-2013, 02:49 PM
#272
I am anxious and nervous about running it. Three hours on it last year and scrapped two engines. New bearings and gaskets in one, rebuilt different motor for the other side. But I think I have the water issues taken care of now. Still nervous! I do so want to post a short video of it actually running.
Brian
07-09-2013, 08:28 PM
#274
Registered
[ATTACH=CONFIG]503837[/ATTACH]
making good progress, she is about all the way back together! Either going to have to run it, or start on another phase of the project. Next week we will test fire the engines on the hose and set the timing. I still need to: Add a 2nd battery, add battery to trailer and wire electric winch, find one of the blue manifold plugs and put it in and get gas for it, bone dry right now. That is it!
In the past week we got the motors in and buttoned up, drives on with new lube, finished cleaning up all the wiring runs from the front to rear, vacuumed out the side compartments and secured the carpet that was loose, finish stereo installation, put cabin door back on and a bunch of little stuff that I wasn't even worried about last year. It is nice to get to the point that I am looking for other little things to work on as the major stuff is getting done.
Also weighed the whole setup. Total weight empty fuel was 7,880 pounds on the trailer. Trailer axles had 7160 total on them for a tongue weight of 720 pounds (9.1%). Not too bad, a bit high on the tongue weight, but within specs. Fuel will add 400 to 800 pounds for 1/2 to a full tank also. A bit heavy for a 1/2 ton burb to pull around with people in it, glad we got the 496 3/4 ton burb to pull this one.
I am not positive what the trailer weighed in at last time. I know I weighed it, but I think that info is in one of my other suburbans, will have to look. I think it weighed in around 1,900+ or so. Adding the battery up front and winch, will probably bring it right in at 2,000 pounds now. If that is correct, the boat ready to run minus fuel tips in right at 5,900 pounds. Not too bad for an old girl.
Will see how far we make it next week. Gotta get it home in the drive and do some cleaning on her, dirty dirty dirty!
Brian
making good progress, she is about all the way back together! Either going to have to run it, or start on another phase of the project. Next week we will test fire the engines on the hose and set the timing. I still need to: Add a 2nd battery, add battery to trailer and wire electric winch, find one of the blue manifold plugs and put it in and get gas for it, bone dry right now. That is it!
In the past week we got the motors in and buttoned up, drives on with new lube, finished cleaning up all the wiring runs from the front to rear, vacuumed out the side compartments and secured the carpet that was loose, finish stereo installation, put cabin door back on and a bunch of little stuff that I wasn't even worried about last year. It is nice to get to the point that I am looking for other little things to work on as the major stuff is getting done.
Also weighed the whole setup. Total weight empty fuel was 7,880 pounds on the trailer. Trailer axles had 7160 total on them for a tongue weight of 720 pounds (9.1%). Not too bad, a bit high on the tongue weight, but within specs. Fuel will add 400 to 800 pounds for 1/2 to a full tank also. A bit heavy for a 1/2 ton burb to pull around with people in it, glad we got the 496 3/4 ton burb to pull this one.
I am not positive what the trailer weighed in at last time. I know I weighed it, but I think that info is in one of my other suburbans, will have to look. I think it weighed in around 1,900+ or so. Adding the battery up front and winch, will probably bring it right in at 2,000 pounds now. If that is correct, the boat ready to run minus fuel tips in right at 5,900 pounds. Not too bad for an old girl.
Will see how far we make it next week. Gotta get it home in the drive and do some cleaning on her, dirty dirty dirty!
Brian
07-10-2013, 12:24 PM
#275
Yes John, it is one heavy trailer. This 272 barely seems to fill it, the bow post is all the way back. Before I painted it, you could tell it was at least 30" forward of where it is now. I figure the trailer is really for a 30 to 31' boat. The good thing is that when I put it in the water, the burb wheels do not even come close to going into the water, that makes me feel better. Still would be nice to get a good aluminum trailer someday. Still, 8,000 to 8,500 really isn't much for my Burb!
Well, we finally got out and started the motors today. Got them both running and idling well, have a few items to take care of still.
1. Fuel pumps still giving me problems. One will not draw in fuel, but when you blow in the pickup line you can hear it bubble. It worked before, but not when the gas was this low. So I will work on that one. Also, the pumps push pressure up to about 6 psi in the lines, but the pressure switches are not opening up now. A month ago they worked fine? Either way, it does work but I need to work these bugs out still. Is it possible to over engineer something?
2. Have a leak on the port thermostat housing, pretty good one actually. So need to pull that off and replace the gasket.
3. No gauge oil pressure on the port motor. You can open the fill spot on the valve cover and see the oil pumping, so it is somewhere in the electrical system. Wonder if I left a loose wire on the gauge? Will pull the panel back off and take a look.
4. Have to finish up wiring the electric winch and mount the trailer battery. Kinda needed for retrieving after launch.
Good thing is both tachs work, both water temp gauges work now also! The lanyard safety switch was tested and it kills both engines. Engines idle well and pump water as they are supposed to. We will deal with these issues here over the next two days and maybe water test it Friday!
Attached is a pic of the final dash. Looks stock, but is very strong. Docking lights switch was relocated to the old cigarette lighter hole. The safety lanyard took the place of the old clock. Both ignition switches were moved out 3/8" for clearance to the steering gear.
Video is short and shows the water fall on the front of the engine. Gotta say, the best improvement I did was modifying that back seat to be removable. That makes all the difference in the world!
Very very close! Brian
EDIT* fuel pump is figured out. Pump works fine, it just will not self prime when the filter has fuel in it and there is a check valve after the pump. Once it is primed and full of fuel, it will work fine. To get it to prime, you have to vent one of the pressurized lines. I do not like that, but it may get better as the pump is run. Also figured out a way to wire the pump solenoid to the ignition switch so I do not have to remember to turn it on or off, but keep the current panel switch as a manual operation option. Fuel system should now be complete!
Water leak is resealed and done.
Still need to finish electric trailer winch and solve the signal lose on the oil pressure gauge.
Edit #2* Solved the oil pressure. Panel and wiring are all good, the sending unit is reading open! No resistance measurement, must be bad. I will try a another sending unit in it's place next test start. I think this one was purchased new also!
[ATTACH=CONFIG]504170[/ATTACH]
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JiDc_4kB69Y&feature=youtu.be
Well, we finally got out and started the motors today. Got them both running and idling well, have a few items to take care of still.
1. Fuel pumps still giving me problems. One will not draw in fuel, but when you blow in the pickup line you can hear it bubble. It worked before, but not when the gas was this low. So I will work on that one. Also, the pumps push pressure up to about 6 psi in the lines, but the pressure switches are not opening up now. A month ago they worked fine? Either way, it does work but I need to work these bugs out still. Is it possible to over engineer something?
2. Have a leak on the port thermostat housing, pretty good one actually. So need to pull that off and replace the gasket.
3. No gauge oil pressure on the port motor. You can open the fill spot on the valve cover and see the oil pumping, so it is somewhere in the electrical system. Wonder if I left a loose wire on the gauge? Will pull the panel back off and take a look.
4. Have to finish up wiring the electric winch and mount the trailer battery. Kinda needed for retrieving after launch.
Good thing is both tachs work, both water temp gauges work now also! The lanyard safety switch was tested and it kills both engines. Engines idle well and pump water as they are supposed to. We will deal with these issues here over the next two days and maybe water test it Friday!
Attached is a pic of the final dash. Looks stock, but is very strong. Docking lights switch was relocated to the old cigarette lighter hole. The safety lanyard took the place of the old clock. Both ignition switches were moved out 3/8" for clearance to the steering gear.
Video is short and shows the water fall on the front of the engine. Gotta say, the best improvement I did was modifying that back seat to be removable. That makes all the difference in the world!
Very very close! Brian
EDIT* fuel pump is figured out. Pump works fine, it just will not self prime when the filter has fuel in it and there is a check valve after the pump. Once it is primed and full of fuel, it will work fine. To get it to prime, you have to vent one of the pressurized lines. I do not like that, but it may get better as the pump is run. Also figured out a way to wire the pump solenoid to the ignition switch so I do not have to remember to turn it on or off, but keep the current panel switch as a manual operation option. Fuel system should now be complete!
Water leak is resealed and done.
Still need to finish electric trailer winch and solve the signal lose on the oil pressure gauge.
Edit #2* Solved the oil pressure. Panel and wiring are all good, the sending unit is reading open! No resistance measurement, must be bad. I will try a another sending unit in it's place next test start. I think this one was purchased new also!
[ATTACH=CONFIG]504170[/ATTACH]
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JiDc_4kB69Y&feature=youtu.be
Last edited by befu; 07-10-2013 at 02:56 PM. Reason: updated todays progress
07-10-2013, 03:05 PM
#278
It is always one of those things, ya know! So, I pull the dash panel to look at the oil pressure gauge and notice that the hour meter is loose. Go to tighten it up and find out that the outside housing has separated from the actual meter. So I unplug it and take it out. How about that, all the gears and shafts are exposed, so being an engineer I just have to look at it! Really neat how an hour meter is set up, but kind of fragile also. Yep, being a big oaf, I messed it up and added a 1,000 hours to the boat! So I try to fix it and it goes down hill from there. I end up with the meter tore apart with several gears out, a couple of shaft removed and all the number wheels sitting on my desk. So since I really changed out everything mechanical on this mulch boat, why not just reset the hour meter to zero and start new. Seeing how I just tipped over to 700 hours last fall when testing, I figure it is a good place to reset. 700 hours on the hull, zero on the replaced "used" equipment.
They are neat little devises, and once you see how they work they do go back together.
It is always "just one of those things" with me!
[ATTACH=CONFIG]504173[/ATTACH]
They are neat little devises, and once you see how they work they do go back together.
It is always "just one of those things" with me!
[ATTACH=CONFIG]504173[/ATTACH]
07-10-2013, 06:50 PM
#279
Registered
Brian...very ingenious idea on the seat back removal. Working on these boats is a real challenge with the complete interior in place. i still have mine configured as original with the fixed bulkhead...hate it. if I have to get in the bilge to change a belt or even tighten a clamp my big ass can't even bend down to pic up a screw or bolt if I drop it!!! LOL I'm still developing the flat floor all the way to the transom idea to open this cockpit up!!
Study the fuel pump deal very closely...having that fail at the wrong time could be very serious. My Carters had an issue with the wires falling off the studs...I thought about it and talked to my neighbor who is a surgeon. His suggestion...SUPER GLUE!! He was serious...said they use it in the Trauma ER all the time to quickly close wounds...guess what?...It worked!!
Stay after it dude...you're inside the 5 now...1st and goal!!
Study the fuel pump deal very closely...having that fail at the wrong time could be very serious. My Carters had an issue with the wires falling off the studs...I thought about it and talked to my neighbor who is a surgeon. His suggestion...SUPER GLUE!! He was serious...said they use it in the Trauma ER all the time to quickly close wounds...guess what?...It worked!!
Stay after it dude...you're inside the 5 now...1st and goal!!
07-11-2013, 05:01 PM
#280
Oil pressure solved. It was the brand new sender I purchased this winter, doa. Put a different one on it and it worked fine.
Fuel pumps worked today during testing, what didn't work was the regulator switches. My port pump only makes 6 psi and the "5 psi max" switch never shuts off. The starboard pump builds up to 13 psi before the "5 psi max" switch opens up. Once engine is running, it vibrates enough and draws enough fuel that the pump does not shut off! So I run with the middle valve open to balance fuel pressure to both carbs. I have come to the conclusion that Holley accessories now suck! A bad pump and 3 bad pressure switches now, all failed out of the box or within a few hours of use. At this point I will buy the "cheap Chinese crap" and take my chances. Very frustrating.
Timing is set also. Idles at 12 degrees. 2000 is 27 degrees and 3k showed 30 total. Nice conservative number to start with, can always dial n more. I ended up order the yellow jegs harmonic balancer timing tape and putting that on. It works great, now we will see if it stays on.
Trailer winch is done. I think I am ready to admit that a 5000 pound electric winch was a bit much for a 6000 pound boat. Once that bow touches the front stop, you had better stop pulling. It looks like it would try to fold the front of the trailer in half! 2000 pound trailer and I think it may need a little reinforcement there!
Going to try to splash it tomorrow!
Brian
Fuel pumps worked today during testing, what didn't work was the regulator switches. My port pump only makes 6 psi and the "5 psi max" switch never shuts off. The starboard pump builds up to 13 psi before the "5 psi max" switch opens up. Once engine is running, it vibrates enough and draws enough fuel that the pump does not shut off! So I run with the middle valve open to balance fuel pressure to both carbs. I have come to the conclusion that Holley accessories now suck! A bad pump and 3 bad pressure switches now, all failed out of the box or within a few hours of use. At this point I will buy the "cheap Chinese crap" and take my chances. Very frustrating.
Timing is set also. Idles at 12 degrees. 2000 is 27 degrees and 3k showed 30 total. Nice conservative number to start with, can always dial n more. I ended up order the yellow jegs harmonic balancer timing tape and putting that on. It works great, now we will see if it stays on.
Trailer winch is done. I think I am ready to admit that a 5000 pound electric winch was a bit much for a 6000 pound boat. Once that bow touches the front stop, you had better stop pulling. It looks like it would try to fold the front of the trailer in half! 2000 pound trailer and I think it may need a little reinforcement there!
Going to try to splash it tomorrow!
Brian
