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masonbig1 04-11-2012 01:41 PM

hey ya'll
 
Figured I'd come on in and say hello. Sprink58 suggested a good while back to check the site out, and I finally made it here. I have a '87 223, that was basically bought for the hull and trailer. She was and still is in sad shape in some areas. it was originally a 260hp 5.7 fuel injected boat, by the time I got to it, it had a 305 2 barrel truck engine in it. Lots of jury rigging and neglect. Interior trashed, repaint at some point that wasn't done well and so on. Done a lot of wiring work(with lots more to go), replaced some interior vinyl myself and had the bucket seat professionally redone. I'm almost 1 year into what will be a several year project. Trying to get mechanical items taken care of before most of the cosmetics. Have replaced the outdrive(alpha one) with a SEI unit after blowing it up. And headlong into a 305 to 454 swap. I see a few familair names from the formula forum here, hello to all!

sprink58 04-11-2012 06:32 PM

Well it took long enough... LOL. Welcome and enjoy...much more active bunch than on the Formula forum as I'm sure you have noticed.

masonbig1 04-11-2012 11:28 PM

Yes sir sprink, lot more activity. Nice to see a lot of others head long into projects on some good ole 'birds. Seen you've made alot of progress on your gal, hope it has been without too many speedbumps. If I can ever get my friggin head gaskets, I may actually get my engine together. As long as my push tube lengths checkout, I'm will have everything for my engine, minus carb and a few small parts. And a outer transom plate, since the hole the gimbal bearing presses into is oversized... Really like your post and pictures on the alpha to bravo setup, that is a future upgrade on the list, as after this big block swap, paint and interior next year, I'm gonna go headers, a lot more camshaft, and will def have to step up to a bravo drive then.

masonbig1 05-03-2012 10:56 AM

Finally got my engine together! Now hunting down small parts. Anything special about the oil pumps on marine apps? or can I use a standard Melling M77 for it(95 GenV 454HO).

Also, I'm debating on ditching the remote oil filter mount, as I have plenty of access to the filter pad. My concern is, is there a different psi oil bypass in the block, or any issues I should be aware of by doing this?

Another issue, is I bought a bracket kit that mounts the alternator and steering pump down low, and my units Im reusing from my small block are serpentine setups, I have got to convert to a v-belt setup to use with my 2 groove crank pulley. My alternator and pump are in fine working order, so just need to do a pulley swap, anyone got a good lead on v-pullies? (No water pump, using a water crossover kit on this engine)

Some pics of the old Bird
http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?s...3&l=f60217d389

sprink58 05-03-2012 05:28 PM

Stay after it Hoss...looks like you have it goin' on. Check the swap shop here for your want list. Fenderjack aka John Sr has some BBC Bracket stuff I'm sure he will part with along with what ever else you need. send him a PM with your list...he probably has it all.

masonbig1 05-03-2012 09:08 PM

Thanks Sprink.

Oil pump, timing cover gasket, and front oil seal will arrive in the morning. I'm going to take the steering pump to advance auto, and just try to size up a pulley there. I've decide to just buy a new alternator for now, and replace the pulley on my old as a spare when I get around to it

I already have a bracket kit, but I will peruse the swap shop and see if theres any other goodies. I still need a msd box and a carb for this thing, a throttle bracket, a oil dipstick, a few other small odds and ends.

I'm trying to find a sure answer about the oil bypass in the block, anyone know? or know where to point me?

Also, on the interrupter switch on the shift bracket, should I wire it in on the power side of the MSD box, Or wire it between the box and distributor? As the only wires from the box to distributor will be the 2 magnetic pickup wires that plug right into the box...

Ahh, all the small time consuming missions..

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?s...3&l=f60217d389

aquaforce 05-05-2012 06:48 PM


Originally Posted by masonbig1 (Post 3678962)
Thanks Sprink.

Oil pump, timing cover gasket, and front oil seal will arrive in the morning. I'm going to take the steering pump to advance auto, and just try to size up a pulley there. I've decide to just buy a new alternator for now, and replace the pulley on my old as a spare when I get around to it

I already have a bracket kit, but I will peruse the swap shop and see if theres any other goodies. I still need a msd box and a carb for this thing, a throttle bracket, a oil dipstick, a few other small odds and ends.

I'm trying to find a sure answer about the oil bypass in the block, anyone know? or know where to point me?

Also, on the interrupter switch on the shift bracket, should I wire it in on the power side of the MSD box, Or wire it between the box and distributor? As the only wires from the box to distributor will be the 2 magnetic pickup wires that plug right into the box...

Ahh, all the small time consuming missions..

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?s...3&l=f60217d389



Welcome to the forum.
Your good with the standard oil pump. Nothing special for marine there. The oil bypass in the marine application is up at the filter mount. In auto it is in the block adapter for the filter but in marine the block adapter is only a pathway and the restrictor/bypass is mounted up at the remote filter mount. The bypass value is higher for marine than auto. That part must be kept the same or excessive bypass will cause oil temps to rise. I can't recall the exact numbers at the moment but marine is higher.

masonbig1 05-05-2012 10:19 PM

@ Aquaforce, I decided to use a Mellling M77HV, since I have a 9qt pan. I spoke with a marine engine builder, said since I have plenty off access, ditch the remote filter mount and just use the block pad. Said the bypass in my block is fine, since its a factory Merc block. he did suggest to use a Baldwin B279 filter, as it has good burst strength and something about it has an oil bypass built in.

aquaforce 05-05-2012 10:28 PM


Originally Posted by masonbig1 (Post 3680342)
@ Aquaforce, I decided to use a Mellling M77HV, since I have a 9qt pan. I spoke with a marine engine builder, said since I have plenty off access, ditch the remote filter mount and just use the block pad. Said the bypass in my block is fine, since its a factory Merc block. he did suggest to use a Baldwin B279 filter, as it has good burst strength and something about it has an oil bypass built in.


Baldwin filters are dual pass for the majority of their stuff so I'm guessing this recommendation of Baldwin is for the high volume to flow.


Do you have an oil cooler?

I bumped up a 454 to squeeze a little harder so I had to get a bigger oil cooler for my engine.

masonbig1 05-06-2012 11:58 AM

Do you have an oil cooler?

Not yet, looking into one though. Looking at the air cooled ones, as I'm not sure on how to plumb up a water cooled type. Plus, since I'm not using a water pump on this engine, I'm not sure if the pump in my drive will push enough water for everything.

As far as you bumping one up to squeeze harder, did you turn more rpms or just bump up the power out put? I'm still new to boat engines, but it seems like if my motor is running 150 to 165 degrees, oil temps shouldn't be an issue..??

I'll give ya'll some more info to guide me upon, here's my engine specs:

1995 Gen V 370ho 4 bolt block, forged crank and pistons, 7/16" rods 325cc rectangular port heads
Honed and new cam bearings
crank turned 10/10
reused the pistons after cleaning them up and used Hastings Moly rings
Heads had .030 milled,v valves ground and vacuum checked and magnafluxed, springs seats were opened up for a 1.850 spring, removed factory non/adjustable rocker studs and installed arp rocker studs, 1.7 ratio Cam Dynamics roller rockers
Using Mercruiser #1622 roller cam, that I degreed in to a 106 ICL, retrofit roller lifters.


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