Water leak.....help
#11
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From: Bowling Green, KY
Ok guys, sorry I didn't get back on sooner had a busy weekend. Well took it out Friday and I really crawled (well stuffed more like...6'2" 250lbs...lol) in to really look at everything and Murphy's Law wasn't against me this time...lol...there was a very light trickle coming from the inside bottom bolt through the transome plate so it looks like the rubber washer in that hole is leaking. The steering tiller arm looked fine on both sides....whew
and the water feed hoses/clamps as well as the exhaust block offs. Thanks guys for pointing me in the right direction.
Brian, if I'm thinking of the same place you will be in Cave City which is only half an hour north of Bowling Green. Could take you guys for a ride on Barren River Lake. It's a very nice, deep lake with a really pretty cliff lined shore. Let me know......Brad.
and the water feed hoses/clamps as well as the exhaust block offs. Thanks guys for pointing me in the right direction.Brian, if I'm thinking of the same place you will be in Cave City which is only half an hour north of Bowling Green. Could take you guys for a ride on Barren River Lake. It's a very nice, deep lake with a really pretty cliff lined shore. Let me know......Brad.
Last edited by Brad Murphy; 04-23-2012 at 02:35 AM.
#13
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From: Bowling Green, KY
Ok guys bringing this one back up. I took the boat to the shop to have the two lower bolts changed (since I dont really have time due to my work schedule) and they told me that they couldnt get them out without pulling the motor???? So now I am picking it back up to change them out myself. so my question is how is the best way to do this? I know you take the nut off on the inside and tap them out, but there isnt much room to get in there with a hammer to do so. Any tricks to make it easier? Thanks.......Brad.
#14
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From: Ocala, Fl
Brad...try using a long steel bar like a piece of re-bar. I think about 12"~ 14" might work.
Once I took the inside nuts off of mine I was able to pull them out from the outside...no big deal.
You could probably do a single with the engine in place...not with twins...no way unless you have 5' arms and 12' fingers.
If you're going to be set up to pull one...you "might as well" ( I find that I say that alot) pull both and get both sides while you're at it.
Once I took the inside nuts off of mine I was able to pull them out from the outside...no big deal.
You could probably do a single with the engine in place...not with twins...no way unless you have 5' arms and 12' fingers.

If you're going to be set up to pull one...you "might as well" ( I find that I say that alot) pull both and get both sides while you're at it.
Last edited by sprink58; 05-03-2012 at 07:27 AM.
#16
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From: Bowling Green, KY
Brad...try using a long steel bar like a piece of re-bar. I think about 12"~ 14" might work.
Once I took the inside nuts off of mine I was able to pull them out from the outside...no big deal.
You could probably do a single with the engine in place...not with twins...no way unless you have 5' arms and 12' fingers.
If you're going to be set up to pull one...you "might as well" ( I find that I say that alot) pull both and get both sides while you're at it.
Once I took the inside nuts off of mine I was able to pull them out from the outside...no big deal.
You could probably do a single with the engine in place...not with twins...no way unless you have 5' arms and 12' fingers.

If you're going to be set up to pull one...you "might as well" ( I find that I say that alot) pull both and get both sides while you're at it.
Just to be clear, are you saying I will have to pull the motors in order to change them? I was really hoping to not have to do that.
#17
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to be honest, you will likely have to pull the motor on any transom assembly related work especially if you plan to work from the inside. there is simply no room to access bolts with the motor in the way. im still hard pressed to think the thru bolts are leaking. the outside assy plate is studded and the inside plate is slid on and bolted from the inside. how could water be getting thru a studded connection from the outside plate? that doesnt make any sense.
#18
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From: NE Indiana
On mine, two of the four lower bolts were so corroded, that they snapped when I went to remove them. I think one came out fine (looks new), one had corroded in two and the other two didn't come out. The nut fell off inside, the head came off with the transom assembly leaving the body of the bolt in the transom.
One I was able to use a screwdriver and drive the chunk out, the other didn't want to move. So I used a drill bit and drilled it out, that went really easy.
Now my question, the lower bolts on mine were aluminum. Is this standard and are yours? If so, you might be able to drill it out. Or, drill/grind the carriage bolt head and shoulder off and then drive the remainder into the boat untill it drops out. I would try to help you out, but mine doesn't have motors still. Maybe one next week, we will see.
First thing I would find out is it Aluminum.
Brian
One I was able to use a screwdriver and drive the chunk out, the other didn't want to move. So I used a drill bit and drilled it out, that went really easy.
Now my question, the lower bolts on mine were aluminum. Is this standard and are yours? If so, you might be able to drill it out. Or, drill/grind the carriage bolt head and shoulder off and then drive the remainder into the boat untill it drops out. I would try to help you out, but mine doesn't have motors still. Maybe one next week, we will see.
First thing I would find out is it Aluminum.
Brian
#19
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From: NE Indiana
Don't do it, don't fall for it. I did, and I kept digging at projects down into the engines untill i hit the trailer! now I am moving rollers, new brakes, new tires, new coupler, new seals........ That doesn't even include the motors I dug through! Yikes!!! I HATE that phrase, "might as well". 
Brian

Brian
#20
to be honest, you will likely have to pull the motor on any transom assembly related work especially if you plan to work from the inside. there is simply no room to access bolts with the motor in the way. im still hard pressed to think the thru bolts are leaking. the outside assy plate is studded and the inside plate is slid on and bolted from the inside. how could water be getting thru a studded connection from the outside plate? that doesnt make any sense.
The first Bravo designs were just like the Alpha with the two bottom bolts passing through both the outside and inside assemblies. Later the Bravo became studded on all holes. The bottom bolts were aluminum for grounding and anti corrosion. They leak way to easy.
Personally I didn't like it and on my old Bravo I got rid of the aluminum bolts and sealed stainless bolts with silicone like underwater equipment should be.


