Hello Formula crowd!
06-20-2012 | 09:27 AM
#12
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From: Kuwait
Danke!
Today i got a call that they finished the job on the front deck.
here some quick shots:
later i will paint it complete, the current patch work doesn't bother me currently.
there are some more spots where work is required so this is why....
tomorrow it will go to the other workshop to make the new arch and bow rail.
Today i got a call that they finished the job on the front deck.
here some quick shots:
later i will paint it complete, the current patch work doesn't bother me currently.
there are some more spots where work is required so this is why....
tomorrow it will go to the other workshop to make the new arch and bow rail.
06-24-2012 | 12:46 AM
#13
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From: Kuwait
Just out of curiouisty, if i change the lower unit from the bravo 3 to the 1, taking the same ratio, will the top speed be different in this boat/ drive and engine combo? pros and cons would be appreciated!
06-24-2012 | 04:32 AM
#14
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From: Ocala, Fl
Exchanging a Bravo I in place of a Bravo III in your boat with a single Big Block would be a step backwards. The top speed would probably be the same but you would loose a measurable amount of acceleration and low speed drive-ability. The Bravo III is a good choice for a heavy hull with a single engine.
What pitch props were on the donor Sea Ray and what size and model was it?
What pitch props were on the donor Sea Ray and what size and model was it?
06-24-2012 | 06:16 AM
#15
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From: Kuwait
Thx for the input!
The donor boat was a sea ray out of '95/'96
i don't know what is the exact model, the size is 24' or 25'.
the props are 28'', as per mercruiser propeller calculator i should use 24''s.
what do you think?
The donor boat was a sea ray out of '95/'96
i don't know what is the exact model, the size is 24' or 25'.
the props are 28'', as per mercruiser propeller calculator i should use 24''s.
what do you think?
06-24-2012 | 12:01 PM
#17
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From: Ocala, Fl
I think I would try the 28's if you still have them. There shouldnt be much difference between the 25 Sea Ray and your boat performance wise.
06-26-2012 | 04:15 AM
#18
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From: Kuwait
Thx for the great input guys! I will try it with the 28''props first...
Yesterday they started the fab. of the new arch:
and i got the new teak panels for the front deck, only have to drill the holes:
the other, not so good news came from the machine shop, wanted to let them re-hone the cylinders and use the same pistons with new rings...
now it turned out that one cylinder have a sleave installed and the others show corrosion marks above the ring zone in TDC and some very slightl marks in the running area of the rings.
I dropped before the idea to do a 502 conversion on it, but now when this came up i'm really comming back to it. If all corrosion should go they recomended to go 0,20 over and this means i need new pistons anyway....
i told the machine shop to take out the sleave first and see if there is any further damage behind it in the block, then to see if the block can be bored to 502 bore specs.
If so i'll be on the run for a 502 conversion.
Found some offers in the swap shop but no crank yet....
If there is a damage behind the sleave and no possibility to go for 502 then i'll drop in a new sleave go 0,20 over and fix it as it is
let's see
Yesterday they started the fab. of the new arch:
and i got the new teak panels for the front deck, only have to drill the holes:
the other, not so good news came from the machine shop, wanted to let them re-hone the cylinders and use the same pistons with new rings...
now it turned out that one cylinder have a sleave installed and the others show corrosion marks above the ring zone in TDC and some very slightl marks in the running area of the rings.
I dropped before the idea to do a 502 conversion on it, but now when this came up i'm really comming back to it. If all corrosion should go they recomended to go 0,20 over and this means i need new pistons anyway....
i told the machine shop to take out the sleave first and see if there is any further damage behind it in the block, then to see if the block can be bored to 502 bore specs.
If so i'll be on the run for a 502 conversion.
Found some offers in the swap shop but no crank yet....
If there is a damage behind the sleave and no possibility to go for 502 then i'll drop in a new sleave go 0,20 over and fix it as it is
let's see
Last edited by Rouven036; 06-26-2012 at 07:29 AM.
06-26-2012 | 11:08 AM
#19
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From: Dixie
Love your posts! Keep 'em coming. as far as the 454 to 502 conversion, not possible with a 454 block.
454= 4.25 bore x 4.0 stroke
502=4.46 bore x 4.0 stroke
Most 454 blocks will easily go .080 overbore, but above that, really need to have your cylinder walls sonic checked for core shift and thickness. with a 'good' 454 block, you can go .100 overbore, add a 4.25 stroke crank and yield 505ci. piston choices are limited in .100, and are mostly for racing purposes, so you might not find a off the shelf set for your desired compression.
If you have good heads(that will feed enough cfm) , and you can get your block cleaned up at .030 over, you could go with a 4.25 stroke crank and yield 489ci out of your block. or buy a 496ci kit that would be be .060 overbore along with the 4.25 crank.
If you have to buy new pistons, carefully consider the cost of: price of pistons, rebuilding stock rods(do you have press fit pistons? what does the machine shop charge you to press them off/on?) versus buying new bushed aftermarket rods and pistons and doing them yourself.
454= 4.25 bore x 4.0 stroke
502=4.46 bore x 4.0 stroke
Most 454 blocks will easily go .080 overbore, but above that, really need to have your cylinder walls sonic checked for core shift and thickness. with a 'good' 454 block, you can go .100 overbore, add a 4.25 stroke crank and yield 505ci. piston choices are limited in .100, and are mostly for racing purposes, so you might not find a off the shelf set for your desired compression.
If you have good heads(that will feed enough cfm) , and you can get your block cleaned up at .030 over, you could go with a 4.25 stroke crank and yield 489ci out of your block. or buy a 496ci kit that would be be .060 overbore along with the 4.25 crank.
If you have to buy new pistons, carefully consider the cost of: price of pistons, rebuilding stock rods(do you have press fit pistons? what does the machine shop charge you to press them off/on?) versus buying new bushed aftermarket rods and pistons and doing them yourself.
06-26-2012 | 11:22 AM
#20
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Posts: 2,296
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From: Lake Travis ,Texas
No way you are gonna spin 28" props on that boat..
We have a 1967 Formula 233 we have been using last year and think we just sold it.
With a 454/365hp mag and a Bravo best it could spin was a 23 pitch mirage Plus to 50mph.
Its a heavy beast and the hull is made for cutting thru waves not flying over them.
Best riding 23ft anywhere but it is not a speed demon.
The Hooptie:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net...33925689_n.jpg
Engine idling:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jvq3Z...7&feature=plcp
We have a 1967 Formula 233 we have been using last year and think we just sold it.
With a 454/365hp mag and a Bravo best it could spin was a 23 pitch mirage Plus to 50mph.
Its a heavy beast and the hull is made for cutting thru waves not flying over them.
Best riding 23ft anywhere but it is not a speed demon.
The Hooptie:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net...33925689_n.jpg
Engine idling:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jvq3Z...7&feature=plcp
Last edited by HTRDLNCN; 06-26-2012 at 11:26 AM.
