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'99 330 SS throttle position discrepancies

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Old 07-09-2012, 03:03 PM
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Default '99 330 SS throttle position discrepancies

While taking my boat up to DC from Quantico on the 4th, I noticed something strange with the throttles. Both engines idle around 750rpm and at roughly 2500rpm or higher, they run matched speeds with the same throttle position. However when I try to go at around 1200 rpm (stupid no wake zones!) I have to move my port throttle significantly higher the the starboard in order to match my RPMs

Another issue that may be related is that the ignition safety switch on the port engine seems to "wander", I have to play with the throttle to get it in a position that the sensor likes before I can start my port engine.

Lastly, both throttles seems to have a bit of play in them, but the port moreso than the starboard, is there a way to tighten these?

Does anyone have any advice on where to start with fixing these issues? I am considering changing out the throttles altogether but I actually like this setup, I just want them to work correctly.

Thanks
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Old 07-09-2012, 08:43 PM
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What you describe is usually due to worn control cables. The throttle/shift handles on your boat are some of the best made and they last forever. But they use standard quality cables which wear internally and get "loose". If you do the replacement, get either Teleflex TFXtreme cables or Morse Red Jackets, they are better quality and will never wear out again. You will be suprised how much better they feel once they are done.
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Old 07-10-2012, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Ted G
What you describe is usually due to worn control cables. The throttle/shift handles on your boat are some of the best made and they last forever. But they use standard quality cables which wear internally and get "loose". If you do the replacement, get either Teleflex TFXtreme cables or Morse Red Jackets, they are better quality and will never wear out again. You will be suprised how much better they feel once they are done.
Thanks for the info. I have considered replacing the controls but from the sound of it, I would benefit more from replacing the cables. Do you have any idea how hard it would be to rerun the cables and what lengths I need?
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Old 07-10-2012, 02:08 PM
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Good stuff. I'm also having this issue in my 97 312 Fastech. Looks like a cable swap over the winter.
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Old 07-10-2012, 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by DracoDan
Thanks for the info. I have considered replacing the controls but from the sound of it, I would benefit more from replacing the cables. Do you have any idea how hard it would be to rerun the cables and what lengths I need?
The cables will have numbers near the ends, one should be the length in inches or feet. There are probably at least two different lengths, maybe 4. What you do is tape together or use a coupler to hold the new cable to the old on, then draw the new one through with the old one, one at a time. Formula uses runs that make this work pretty well, although when I did my 311 there were a couple of tie wraps under the side panel that made them stick, once they were cut they slid through like butter, not sure if the tie wraps were from Formula or not.
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Old 07-11-2012, 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Ted G
The cables will have numbers near the ends, one should be the length in inches or feet. There are probably at least two different lengths, maybe 4. What you do is tape together or use a coupler to hold the new cable to the old on, then draw the new one through with the old one, one at a time. Formula uses runs that make this work pretty well, although when I did my 311 there were a couple of tie wraps under the side panel that made them stick, once they were cut they slid through like butter, not sure if the tie wraps were from Formula or not.
Great info, thanks! I was hoping I would be able to do the ol' wire trick, but when I recently tried that to replace my GPS antenna I learned the hard way that Formula likes to tie everything off... I still haven't managed to get that damn cable routed...
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