Slowly by steadily I've been planning the purchase of a 400 (or 370) SS, which most likely won't happen in at least a few months, but there's one problem that has been bothering me for a while.

Bridge clearance.

For a few years I've had a place at the dock literally in front of my house, about 100 yards from my front door. I just walk out the front door, through a park, and I'm there. Easy and convenient. On top of all the whole harbor is virtually stormproof.

The problem is, there's a bridge on the way out, officially with a 10' clearance but in reality it's about 11-12', except when the water (not tide) is high. And when it is, it lasts for several days, which means that a boat with a 10'+ clearance won't make it.

First, I really want to keep my boat at this dock. Second, I don't want to remove the arch altogether - lights, TV antenna, bimini etc. call for it. And I don't want to buy a smaller boat, I already have one.

I got an idea about installing a (heavy duty) hinge and an equally heavy duty (3000...5000lbs?) 12V linear actuator, to be able to lower the arch down to windshield level when necessary. It'll be a custom job, of course, but I'd like to know if anyone has done anything like this before. And, if anyone has intimate knowledge of how the arch is mounted at the factory, all comments on how viable a modification like this would be are very welcome.

I ran into a couple on either a 31 PC or 34 PC who had a hinged arch on it. They were from Wisconsin and were visiting northern Michigan so I unfortunately can't just bop back to the marina and ask about it.

Their arch hinged at the front so it would lie down almost to the windshield. I didn't actually see it go down, but they showed me the hinges and explained it to me. It seemed quite a nice setup, so your idea shouldn't be too difficult, assuming you have greater mechanical aptitude than I!

Their need was while trailering the boat, but the mechanism would be the same for you.

Thanks glboatdriver, that's exactly the kind of setup I'm talking about. Too bad that the couple you mentioned is from out of state, otherwise it would've been nice to see how they had converted theirs. On second thought, I probably should contact the manufacturer and ask if they can send me drawings/blueprints of the arch, that would definitely help with calculations and planning.

I have a semi-decent machine shop in my garage (gunsmithing hobby...) but some items are just too large to make with the tools I have. And some are too smelly, my permit to do any fiberglass work in the garage or anywhere near the house was recently revoked by my wife.

Ahhh. Held hostage by the ultimate authority...! But what can you do? A friend always says, when it comes to dealing wives, we can be happy or we can be right.

I would be willing to bet Formula would try to help you out, give them a call. Can't hurt.

4Winns makes folding arches if I remember correctly. You may look at a theirs or similar setups. Check them out on the web.

The arch is bolted to the top of the gunnal. A hinge would work, the only issue I see is increasing the wire runs for the items attached to the arch. I know that formula did not add enough wiring to allow for the arch to move that much. Sounds like an intresting project though.

A company designed such a conversion for the PC's a few years ago. I visited with them at the Saint Louis Boat Show. They were NOT Formula, but were doing this with Formula's "blessing". So, you should contact Formula for contact info to this small private company. Now, if they are still in business, I don't know, but with a little research, you'd be able to contact the owner and see about buying plans at least. Good luck.

Wow. Thanks, everybody, this is great information. I reckoned that there's no point in re-inventing the wheel but this is much better than I expected, especially if I manage to get my hands on plans or even be able to have the arch converted. I've been looking for an SS in the US so with some luck, a conversion will be much easier than I originally thought.

Not sure if this is much help....but....

I have installed two and fixed one.....that was installed wrong.

Both of my Dorals now currently come with this option.....and my 05 was supposed to...but whatever. It is not a difficult task.

You can order it directly from Doral, or from of their dealers.

The kit contains no hinges however, as my Dorals came with manual retractable arches. I would think formula does the same?

One dbl pole dbl throw switch rated at 30a
Two standard 30a Bosch type relays
About 50 ft of 10ga red and black
2 10inch linear type actuators with built in limit switches rated for 400lbs
Six 2 inch aluminum pulleys with brackets
Butt pin and bracket for actuator base
4 ga anl fuse holder with 80amp anl fuse
6 ft 4ga red
Assorted eyes and boots
Manual reset circuit breaker
Distribution block
2 manual release pins
30 ft 5/16 stainless cable with machined threaded keepers on both ends.

The way I did these...aside from wiring.....

In the area above the gas tanks on either side aft, there is a bulkhead/support directly below where you would walk fore and aft above the gunnels.....and just forward of the base of the arch....about where the fresh air inlets are.

Then, you have a reinforced tru bulkhead between the engine room and the aft cabin. In all three cases, I had to remove the upholstery in the aft cabin to properly thru bolt the butt plate(motor side of actuator) to the bulkhead. To determine position, I measured half the distance of the available room between the tops of the tank vents and the lowest part of the gunnel where the arch is mounted. I moved this mark to the bulkhead, screwed in the bracket with regular drywall screws long enough to go through(upholstery already removed on other side) and had a helper circle the 6 holes (each side) with a sharpie.

Now go into the aft cabin, locate the circled holes, and drill a hole the other direction (back toward engines) with a forsner bit just deep enough to allow the head of the carriage bolt to sit flush. Then, drill a hole in the center of the forsner hole the next size up from the diameter of the carriage bolt.

One person inside the aft cabin, one inside the engine bay.....install the bracket and tighten all hardware as you are finished.....with this part.

Back into the bay....install the actuator...butt pin, wiring...stroke bracket with aluminum pulley.....

Once this is done, you are about 25% done.

Assuming there is already a hinge.....otherwise....you are looking at doing glass and paint work on the arch....

Let me know your situation....I will guide you from there....but this really is a critical part. Everything so far is a cake walk.....

Oh...and I can post pics if you like....of the various pieces....and the finished install..but I won't take anything apart....sorry.....but nice has it's limits.....