Purchasing 1996 Formula 330SS . . .
#1
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Purchasing 1996 Formula 330SS . . .
I have been searching for a 280SS for a few months, and made a couple of offers during the process. However, I recently saw a fresh water 330SS come on the market, it looked like a good opportunity, and I went to look at it last weekend, took a ride on it, etc.
I have an accepted offer and now it is time for the sea trial and survey, (this Friday). This is a fresh water boat with 740 hours. It will be going into salt water once it is all said & done.
??? Just wondering if there are any words of advice on the Formula 330SS. ???
Being a 1996, it is the first year of production for the 330SS. The 280SS was introduced the year prior (1995).
My salt water prep plans are:
Fresh water cooling conversion
Barrier coat
Anti-fouling paint
Maybe a windlass, since it does not have one.
TIA for any advice/comments about the early years of the 330SS.
I have an accepted offer and now it is time for the sea trial and survey, (this Friday). This is a fresh water boat with 740 hours. It will be going into salt water once it is all said & done.
??? Just wondering if there are any words of advice on the Formula 330SS. ???
Being a 1996, it is the first year of production for the 330SS. The 280SS was introduced the year prior (1995).
My salt water prep plans are:
Fresh water cooling conversion
Barrier coat
Anti-fouling paint
Maybe a windlass, since it does not have one.
TIA for any advice/comments about the early years of the 330SS.
#2
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What drives? Early model Bravo III's dissolve like Alka_Seltzer when left in saltwater.
#4
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The newer BIII's have an extra anode under the cavitation plate and the bullet anode at the end of the propshaft. You could drill and tap the propshaft for the bullet anode but not sure how you would add the extra cavitation plate anode without the recessed boss that accepts it. Make sure the Mecathode system is working correctly.
#6
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Purchasing 1996 Formula 330SS
#7
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I am wondering about the bullet anode for the prop shaft, as that would be a good place to have an anode, right near the stainless props. Would I have to drill & tap the shaft, or would it be able to attach with the prop nut?
I am also thinking that I can attach an additional anode to the top of the cavitation plate since the underside would not have the inset for a second anode in that location.
Update: it looks like I answered the prop anode question . . . There is a retrofit kit that replaces the prop nut with one that can accept the bullet anode.
I am also thinking that I can attach an additional anode to the top of the cavitation plate since the underside would not have the inset for a second anode in that location.
Update: it looks like I answered the prop anode question . . . There is a retrofit kit that replaces the prop nut with one that can accept the bullet anode.
Last edited by tpenfield; 08-29-2012 at 06:48 AM. Reason: Found additional info