seats?
#2
Charter Member #232
Charter Member
Yes. Holes will not line up but that should not be a big deal Sit down when you get the price
Jon
Jon
__________________
Put your best foot forward!
Put your best foot forward!
#4
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
12v actuators can be substituted for the standard McLeod manual cylinders. A local machine shop should be able to make a stainless plate to fit where the existing button is now with a marine rocker switch in it. Been tossing the idea around myself.
Actuators will run around $150 each.
BE aware, though, that the electrics won't drop the bolster quickly for docking, etc. like you can currently do with the manuals.
Actuators will run around $150 each.
BE aware, though, that the electrics won't drop the bolster quickly for docking, etc. like you can currently do with the manuals.
#6
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
I would imagine that you will need to move the bracket a bit. McMaster-Carr has actuators.
Measure the stroke needed with the seat full up and full down. This is the stroke you will need (I can't remember if the stock ones use the full stroke or not). Chances are, the electric ones will be longer which will require the brackets to be moved a bit.
I bought a handful of actuators off ebay for around $45 each. They are 4" and 6" stroke. I planned to use them on my seats. I planned to have to refigure the mount geometry, so I didn't bother to check the stocker's lengths.
By the way, I'd also LOVE to find some small actuators to put on my two front hatches for cabin ventilation (but be able to close them securely without climbing up on the veeberth on my back).
The ones I got are fairly beefy and very much unsuited to the hatch thing.
Also, if you got a 311, you have the same engine hatch issue as I have: it is sluggish and doesn't open as far as I'd like. I found some really mean gas struts at Pep Boys and I plan to put them on the sides to assist the lift actuator. If ity works good enough, I am gonna move the top mount back a touch so it will open farther.. I'll let you know what cylinders I end up using.
Measure the stroke needed with the seat full up and full down. This is the stroke you will need (I can't remember if the stock ones use the full stroke or not). Chances are, the electric ones will be longer which will require the brackets to be moved a bit.
I bought a handful of actuators off ebay for around $45 each. They are 4" and 6" stroke. I planned to use them on my seats. I planned to have to refigure the mount geometry, so I didn't bother to check the stocker's lengths.
By the way, I'd also LOVE to find some small actuators to put on my two front hatches for cabin ventilation (but be able to close them securely without climbing up on the veeberth on my back).
The ones I got are fairly beefy and very much unsuited to the hatch thing.
Also, if you got a 311, you have the same engine hatch issue as I have: it is sluggish and doesn't open as far as I'd like. I found some really mean gas struts at Pep Boys and I plan to put them on the sides to assist the lift actuator. If ity works good enough, I am gonna move the top mount back a touch so it will open farther.. I'll let you know what cylinders I end up using.
#7
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Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Annapolis MD
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For small actuators try:
http://www.motionsystem.com/
The small ones can be custom made to any stroke at about $200 each. Should be strong enough for seat bottoms too, 100# pull 600# to over-ride.
-Greg
http://www.motionsystem.com/
The small ones can be custom made to any stroke at about $200 each. Should be strong enough for seat bottoms too, 100# pull 600# to over-ride.
-Greg
#8
Toxic FORMULA
Platinum Member
GregP, nice website. I'll have to take some measurements and see if I can match something up. Right now my drivers side won't stay down and my pass. side wont stay up. The problem with that is , I usually stand and my wife usually sits. And don't any of you girls out there in Offshoreonly land suggest we switch places. Wow I better duck after that comment Thanks for the info Greg.