Help with Amp choice for new stereo!
 

So when it comes to engine work and mechanics Im pretty good..when it comes to choosing and hooking up the right stereo components..well lets just say I could use some help!
:lolhit:

Here is what I have purchased so far

Sony CDX-M60UI head unit with a wired remote

Features:
Sony CDX-M60UI In-dash Marine AM/FM, CD, MP3, WMA player with Remote
iPod and iPhone interface built in through standard iPod to USB cable
Charge, control, and play your iPod and iPhone through the receiver
Detachable face
Dot-matrix display
Switchable blue and red button illumination
CEA-2006 compliant amplifier
Peak: 52 watts x 4 channels
RMS: 17 watts x 4 channels
MP3 ID3 Tag Displays Title/Artist/Album names
Plays CD, CD-R, CD-RW, MP3, WMA, and AAC
Radio tuner with 18FM/12AM presets
Dynamic Soundstage Organizer 2 gives you great sound staging for amazing sound quality
Built in 3-band parametric equalizer with preset tone curves and a custom EQ curve
3 Sets of 2V preamp outputs (front, rear and subwoofer)
SIRIUS or XM Satellite Radio Ready - Requires tuner, antenna, and subscription
HD Radio Ready: Sony - Requires Sony XT-100HD
Front auxiliary input
Rear USB input
Includes wireless remote
Quick-Browzer feature makes it easy to search for a track
Restores sound quality in compressed music files such as MP3 and WMA tracks
Wired Marine Remote Control Ready - Requires Sony RM-X11M or Sony RM-X55M
CD Changer controls
UV Resistant Paint
Amazing Sound Staging to make your speakers sound at their best
Clock
45 degree install Option
Loudness Control
CD Text
Tel/Nav Attenuation

4 Kicker KM6200 (11KM6200)
SPECS:

6" 2-Way KM Series Marine Speakers

Power Handling:


Peak: 390 watts per pair / 195 watts each

RMS: 130 watts per pair / 65 watts each


Injection-molded cones

Santoprene surround

3/4" Tweeter

Classic grille for a classic marine look

4 ohms impedance

UV Treated to withstand the harsh marine weather conditions

Frequency Response: 35-21,000 Hz

Top-mount depth: 2-7/8/16"

here is my question..I do want to add at least one sub in the cockpit to this later (possibly now just to get it all done at once) but not sure if a 4 channel will work for what I want and looking at pic of head unit there are only RCA outputs for front and rear speakers..
I did plan on hooking up all 4 cockpit to rear channel and 2 cabin speakers up to forward channel so I can isolate at night when I want to listen to music or watch a movie without disturbing neighbors..is that possible..if not I can live without that option! Here are the two amps I am considering!

KICKER ZXM350.4 MARINE AMPLIFIER 350 WATTS RMS 4 CHANNEL BRIDGED STABLE POWER
Specifications:
Kicker ZXM350.4 4-Channel Boat Marine Audio Amplifier 350 Watts (10ZXM350.4)
RMS Power Rating:
2 Ohms: 90 Watts x 4 Channels
4 Ohms: 60 Watts x 4 Channels
4 Ohms Bridged: 175 Watts x 2 Channel
PEAK Power Handling:
2 Ohms: 180 Watts x 4 Channels
4 Ohms: 120 Watts x 4 Channels
4 Ohms Bridged: 350 Watts x 2 Channel
ZXRC Remote Bass Control Included: No
ZXRC Remote Bass Control Capable: No
Dimensions: Height 2-1/8" x Width 9-5/8" x Length 13-1/2"
Frequency Response: 20Hz-20kHz
Input Sensitivity: High Level 250mV-10V, Low Level 125mV-5V
Signal-to-Noise Ratio: >95dB, a-weighted, re: rated power
Selectable Electronic Crossover: Variable HI, LO, or OFF (bypass) 50200Hz, 12dB/octave
KICKEQ Boost: Variable 0 to 18dB @ 40Hz

OR

KICKER AUDIO 2010 ZXM700.5 R 5-CHANNEL MARINE & BOAT AMPLIFIER ZXM POWER AMP

Specifications:
Kicker ZXM350.4 4-Channel Boat Marine Audio Amplifier 350 Watts (10ZXM350.4)
4-CHANNEL RMS Power Rating:
2 Ohms: 85 Watts x 4 Channels
4 Ohms: 70 Watts x 4 Channels
4 Ohms Bridged: 165 Watts x 2 Channel
MONO RMS Power Handling:
2 Ohms: 420 Watts x 1 Channels
4 Ohms: 210 Watts x 1 Channels
ZXRC Remote Bass Control Included: No
ZXRC Remote Bass Control Capable: Yes
Dimensions: Height 2-1/8" x Width 9-5/8" x Length 20"
Frequency Response: 25Hz-20kHz
Input Sensitivity: High Level 250mV-10V, Low Level 125mV-5V
Signal-to-Noise Ratio: >95dB, a-weighted, re: rated power
Selectable Electronic Crossover: Variable HI, LO, or OFF (bypass) 50200Hz, 12dB/octave
KICKEQ Boost: Variable 0 to 18dB @ 40Hz
Subsonic Filter: 24dB/octave, fixed at 25Hz

Sorry for the long boring message but I wanted to include as much info for those that know to hopefully help me out..any help would be appreciated greatly!

Not that I think it will matter but here are some pics of the components I have gathered so far!
http://i1334.photobucket.com/albums/...psa9318242.jpg
http://i1334.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5617f1c1.jpg
http://i1334.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5097451d.jpg
http://i1334.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6444515c.jpg
http://i1334.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8864d5ce.jpg
Thanks Again..any help with choice and suggestions on how to wire up would be appreciated!

It may have changed as I havent messed with audio in a few years, but a 5 channel amp was always a compromise. i was allways better to run a seperate amb for the bottom end and tune with a good active crossover. How you mount/enclose your speakers also make a HUGE difference. I had a ford ranger in my younger days, had 2 sets of component mids/tweets on a 4 channel, 2 8's on their own amp for mid base and 2 12,s own their own amp for the bottom.... It sounded ok but got a little muddy at volume. Took the time to build enclosures for everything to exact spec, sealed them good etc. Next problem was buying a new window for the back of the cab as I blew it completely out of the rubber gasket and the sound was worlds better,

Look at JL audios MHD 900/5 amp pricy but I couldn't be happier with how it sounds. I have a set of JL 7.7s, 6.5s and an M10 sub

I had the same question....just bought a new Kenwood marine head unit. I called Kenwood customer service to confirm that the front and rear outputs were putting out the same signal and they confirmed that they were. I'm used to home theater where front and rear mean VERY different sound signals are sent to the speakers from the receiver.

I'm hooking up my cabin speakers to an amp hooked to the front outputs, and the cockpit speakers to an amp hooked up to the rear outputs. I figure I can just use the fader control on the head unit to kill the music in one area or the other.

I was also thinking about putting in subwoofers later, but bit the bullet and bought a couple JL 10's for under my back seat (building boxes in the seat compartment) and a JL 500/1 to run them. I figure if I am going to have to crawl all around the boat running wiring, I am only going to do it once. I would also highly recommend getting a dedicated amp to run your sub(s).

DYVMASTER-That head unit is what I have decided on myself , as it has 3 sets of 2.5v outputs-front,rear and a dedicated sub output,not just 2. Plenty of flexibility there. I myself will be running 1 4 channel amp off the front and rear outputs for my componets, and then utilise the sub output for a 2 channel amp pushing 2 10" subs. After looking at the options , I think the Sony CDX-M60UI is a good unit for the $$$, it offers a lot of flexibility and desirable features.. As stated before, the 5 channel amps are ok for ease of/cleaner installation, but a dedicated sub amp will push out more/cleaner sounding power.

I have a M1200 mono Rockford amp powering 2 10" Rockford subs and a Rockford M600 2 channel powering 2 Rockford M282's and 2 Rockford M262's. It must be good because my lady keeps telling me to turn it down it's vibrating the seats!!! Lmao
Have fun with it !!!

Thanks for the help guys..and Masonbig1..I looked over the Specs I posted and I suppose if I would have read them more thoroughly I would have seen that..Time will be the factor for me as far as if the subs get put in this time or not..I am out at sea now and gathering parts but I will only have 4-5 days to buff..wax..clean prep install new toys plus shakedown the ol girl after a winter port engine rebuild to make sure I can trust her to make a run to PIB..plus I have some ideas for custom installation of my subs that will take time..dont want to just throw and go..I agree though..would like to do it all at once but time isnt on my side! Its good to know the front and rear put out the same signal (thanks mike_mds) and that there is a seperate out for the sub as well..for this leave I think Ill get the 4 channel and hook up what I have and plan my install of subs..gather those parts and have the custom plates I have in mind cut and install next leave..as long as I can rock while Im running and sitting at the dock with a cold one Ill be pacified for now! Thanks again for the input

DYVMASTER-To save some time later, if you have a spot planned for a sub amp, go ahead an run your RCA's to there while installing head unit, no sense on have to do it twice.

Formulas spot according to wiring diagrams is in the cubby above the fridge..I planned on putting the 4 channel there as well as the sub if there is room to mount..is there a benefit to having amp closer to sub?

Id like to keep them inside the cabin to stay out of the elements..Im buying marine grade components but why expose them to more than you have to!

Amp closer to speakers /subs= Less wire>less resistance>more efficient use of power. That being said, Its not pratical to run your amp wired directly to a power source with 6" of cable, the have your subs mounted inches away from amp outputs either. Mount amps in dry secure locations, and speakers /subs in practical areas with good 'imaging'( locations/line of sight to your ears). Use good quality RCA's, and the recommended ga size for power and ground cables on amps.. Those kicker amps will prob need a 4ga power cable. Check the specs, run a cable capable of keeping up with the amp' power demand. Thats prob the biggest mistake people make, running too small of cable on thier amp. a 2000 watt amp cant draw enough power thru a 10ga cable...

That's exactly where I am putting my amps. One of the previous owners put a 2 channel amp in there to run the cabin speakers...must have been a while ago because the amp being used is a 1980's era Kenwood. If that amp has managed to stay fully functional after sitting in the cabin forever, I don't have any qualms about the non-marine JL amps I am going to be putting in there. I'd be concerned if I was exposing the amps to salt air, but not a worry where I live.

The amp suggested gauge wire run is 8ga..would it be beneficial..detrimental..or not matter if I ran a heavier gauge say 6 or 4..and is 16 gauge speaker wire sufficient!?

Never hurts to run heavier gauge power and ground wire to the amp, except maybe the wallet.

16 gauge to the 6" speakers should be fine.

^THIS-Also, use 12ga-14ga for those subs. Generally, I use the biggest ga cable that will actually hook into the amp. If it will only accept 8ga cable, taking a 4ga and clipping half the wire strands to get it to fit into the amps' input terminals is a waste.
Good luck find amp istall kits, as you can find them with 20ft power cables, but every one I've seen/used only has a 3 ft ground cable. Not quite enough normally to find a ground in a boat. Go to Napa or Advance Auto parts, they normally have spools of different ga cable you can purchase by the ft.

Im a HUGE kicker fan. for this type of install i would run some 1/0 AUG of both power and a ground wire for the amp run them from the batteries to a distro block in the cabin dont skimp on the wire size it will cause your deck and amps to clip and shut off. i would run 4 aug from the distro blocks to the amps. with the speakers you choose a kicker 300.4 amp would be decently loud and nowdays crossovers are kinda overrated with the settings on the deck and amp unless you go have it professionally tuned i wouldnt get one. now beings its in the cabin a 300.4 car amp should be just as good as a 300.4 marine amp and probably a little cheaper. sub amp i would run larger in case you want to add more subs later. 750.1 or something of the nature. best quality sound will come from a 4 OHM setup. the lower the OHM rating the harder and less efficient the amps run.

remember with the backbone (IE AMPS) if you go to small you have to add more if you want to expand if you go bigger from the begining you can DETUNE your amps to handle the power of the speakers you have now. (IE turn the gain down on the amps)

ANY system over 500 watts should be grounded back to the battery. in a boat run both GROUND and POWER to the batterys or you are just asking for issues with equipment failure.

Coax speakers, 2 ways are decent and will sound good but if you want sound quality go with a component setup the clarity cant be beat from a component system to a coax system. plus with a componet system it will sound louder with the same amp tuned the exact same way than with coax speakers.

Really like your choice in the Sony head unit. I have a very similar but much older model. Sound quality is outstanding and outperforms Kenwood all around. I have always had good luck with Coustic amps, but it's been awhile since I have done any research.