Distant Thunder gets new power..
 

First of all, Thanks to everyone for their input so far with my build. This all started by removing my existing power plant to replace the coupler and freshen up the gaskets. Now I am knee deep in a full build, engine bay detail, in addition to other improvements to the amenities on board.

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...psyczc08cu.jpg

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Old Engine:

Gen VI (1997) 454 Block
Rebuilt in 2008 by Previous Owner
Stock Crank turned .010
Stock Rods
Unnamed Cam
+.030 Pistons
088 Heads with stock lifters, rockers, etc.
Edelbrock Performer RPM Dual Plane
Stainless Marine Manifolds and Tails to Hardin Marine tips
Holley 800 Double Pumper
Ran a best of ~69 MPH at ~5000 RPM with 24P Bravo 1 (Bblades)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WhIN8wcmTqY Upon disassembly I found 2 slightly damaged cylinders and I wasn't comfortable with going .060 over on a Gen VI that was in salt water prior to me having it. Also found a no name camshaft.

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...psbaekyt9e.jpg

New Engine:

Gen VI (1998) 454 Block (Standard Bore, Previously Closed Cooling System) $200
Block and Head Machine Work $550.00
Standard Crank $0.00
Standard Rods with ARP Hardware $0.00
King Bearings ($TBD.00) Installed by Machine Shop
Diamond Pistons Forged 12704 .030 Over - from old engine $0.00
Sealed Power R9904030 Rings $126.00
COMP Cams K01-451-8 Camshaft Kit $965.88
COMP Cams 900-16 Hydraulic Roller Lifters $204.88
COMP Cams RPS302 Magnum Rocker Arm/Pushrod/Stud Kit $259.88
088 Heads worked over by Machine Shop with Valve Upgrades
ARP Hardware for Heads $75.00
Stock Valve Covers w/ Spacers (TBD)
MSD 31489 8.5mm Super Conductor Spark Plug Wire Set $99.95
Mr. Gasket 6005 Aluminum Carburetor Spacer with Open Center $25.00 (Testing Purposes)
Holley 800 DP $0.00
Edelbrock Performer RPM Intake $0.00
Stainless Marine Manifolds and Tails $0.00
Gaskets, Coupler, Maintenance and Misc Items $850.00

Currently the engine block and heads are at the machine shop and the parts are flowing in. The weather is breaking here so it has given me a chance to clean/detail the engine bay and take care of the other items in the boat I wanted to do before this season. This will be my first full engine build and it has been interesting already, to say the least. I look forward to any improvements this new power will give Distant Thunder! I am looking at 2 locations to get the engine dyno'd at, one in PA (Mahler Engine Service) and one in VA Beach (Riddle) that TomZ recommended to me. I feel that it will be money well spent to have it the engine broke in and tuned prior to installation, especially dialing in the Holley carb. I will keep you all posted on progress!

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That cam is smaller than a 454 mag cam. With your setup I would think you'd want something more like a 731 crane. It's too bad not knowing what cam was in it. If it was in the engine you could at least degree for duration/lift/lca. At 69 on the top end you had more power than a 454 mag

Still time to change my route, free returns on amazon, what would your recommendation be and could it use the rocker and lifter kits I already purchased?

Then I am back to looking at the K-01-451-8 but it may be too big for this build? Thoughts?

Comp cams have matched extreme marine cams. I recently put one in my 88 242ss after installing the previous season 292 (1971 402cid heads) casting heads 2.19 / 1.88 and pocket ported and roller tip rockers, with high rise, duel plane, semi tuned exhaust manifolds. The cam woke it right up! then It spun the coupler! So I had to replace the coupler, just finished it yesterday. Put in the huge coupler and flywheel cover. If you dont have the HD coupler I recommend doing that too. I recommend a comp cams extreme marine. read about it online.

Distantthunder,

Congrats on the engine build for this coming season and for certain the additional upgrades that you will do along the way. Nice looking boat. Look forward to seeing it in person this season and doing some running together. Let me know if there is anything I can do to help you along.

Chris.

Thanks for the input, I am returning the originally ordered kit and going with the K-01-451-8. Do you have a part number for that HD coupler you speak of?

Thanks Chris! It's been hectic for sure, this build on top of purchasing our first home has been a tad bit overwhelming at times but the payoff will be worth it if she holds together as long and as well as the original setup did. The dyno tune should help with getting it commissioned and dialed in and provide me with the hard numbers I would like to have for whenever I pass Distant Thunder off to the next owner in a few years.The season is approaching quickly and I hope to get some runs together as well. I have a friend on your side of the bay that has a 242 w/ 502 that is looking to meet up as well. All black hull and goes by the name "Good Vibes", don't know if you have seen it floating around. Once the engine is in then I will put my attention on the trailer so I can get around to more places! If you're ever on the shore, let me know!

-Josh

I haven't run that cam, but it looks about where you want to be. It looks like it has 2 degrees of advance ground in, I would advance it 2 more (4 degrees) if you have an adjustable timing set. What is your compression ratio?

I would also keep the up idle up above 1000 when in gear, and if idling at the dock, bump it up some too. Check for any reversion, but with the SM manifolds you should be fine.

My only concern was the RPM range of 2200-5800 RPM based on maxing out at ~5000 RPM with the 24P Bravo 1. Before BBlades cleaned up the prop, she was turning ~5300 RPM in the low 60's but I assume once the dyno is done and some sea trials, I can dial in the prop more appropriately. I will be using the timing set that is included with the Cam kit. It looks like the CR will be around 9-9.25 when all said and done. The ilde was pretty high before ~800 RPM and I usually have it around 1100 when moving around the docks.The SM manifolds have tails that almost touch the tips on the thru hull (~2.5 Inches), I was thinking of setting the initial ignition timing at 10* but since I will be using the dyno, I will get to play with it a bit.

The rpm ranges advertised aren't that useful. I would think you would make max horsepower at 54-5500, but the dyno will tell for sure. Careful on your max advance and run good fuel.

Sorry to go off topic, but I like your fauxtina C-10.

I own a couple 67-72 myself :)

https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...7f&oe=574EFBCA

https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...72&oe=5798E90D

you will need this flywheel cover pn; 865657A04
here is a used one at the fraction of the cost.(i got mine on ebay for $100)
http://www.shipwrecksalvage.net/merc...04-p-4305.html
and here is the coupler #
8M0098795

I just fell in love with "Clunker"

Lol, thanks. She packs a little punch.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wHyBb...Lvfath&index=3

Share the results...

Going to be starting a similar project with my S10.... race weight of 2800 pounds and is high-10s capable as she sits. Really loving the idea of a cheap 5.3L turbo set-up to go 9's. My understanding is the 5.3L short block is 1200 HP capable.

Back to the thread...

Josh,

Comp is rather weak in the lift department, and I'm not a fan of their cores. A big block Chevy with decent heads needs lift. I would look at some
crane offerings. The 731 (or equivalent) is a good choice, but requires you to spin it a little faster (5600). Just my thoughts.

I just put a 168761 in my 454 mag. Hoping to dyno soon. I had a comp cam similar to the 168731 that peaked out at 5200 previously.

823 rwhp, 899 rwtq through a 4L80E and an unlocked converter.

LOL. No. I don't care what Hot Rod magazine says. ;)

I am even more in love with Clunker with those numbers. I have the LQ4 in my Sierra 1500. I put a LQ4 with a 78MM On3 turbo in a neighbors 1996 Impala SS a few years back but he changed his lifestyle and sold the car before we finished it, the engine setup is now in a '71 Chevelle up North somewhere. .

1200 HP for 1 pass maybe. =)

And thanks to everyone for their input, All the parts that are listed on the OP are now on their way to the house and I can't wait to post up some final numbers in a couple weeks. All my buddies boats are now coming out of hibernation, I hope to be completed before April 15th.

That's pretty much in the range of 950 at the crank! Nice! Care to share the set-up?

And yes, I generally take what Hot Rod mag says with a grain of salt... those west coast dynos sure put out some numbers! ;) With that said, I've seen some guys make ridiculous power on the stock components. For what I want to do it won't take much. The biggest challenge will be with the suspension. It's marginal now... works... but can be stupid scary!

Sorry that I took your thread off topic DistantThunder. I'll post this last one to answer the question, and if anyone wants to know more about the Turbo Clunker, feel free to PM me.

Forged LQ9, 370 cubic inch, CNC ported LSA heads, LJMS turbo grind cam, Holley Hi-Ram, 120 lb/hr injectors, billet Borg Warner S480, Holley Dominator, E85 pump gas, home built turbo kit. All fab and tuning done by me.

You're fine brother, although your dyno numbers may shadow my numbers when the engine is complete. LOL no worries. The rest of my parts are scheduled to arrive today. I hope to be on the dyno in 3 weeks. If anyone has any tips or tricks that I need to definitely pay attention to during reassembly, it would be greatly appreciated. I don't want to miss any boating time due to negligence during reassembly.

Make sure you post some dyno vids! I'm in big block withdrawal.

Will do, I am hoping I don't misplace anything during our move next week that is going to set me back. We close on our first home on Monday. Fun stuff.

Block, Crank, and Heads will be done at the end of this week. Then time for reassembly. We were supposed to close on the new house today but that got moved until tomorrow. That being said, I am headed out of the house as I type this to go to Delaware to pick up a 1988 Stingray Maxim 222SS for my cousin. Hopefully it is as clean as the guy says. I will post pictures of the machine work when I get the parts.

Well, everything is back from the machine shop but the Diamond Pistons turned out to be slightly damaged once we got them cleaned up, I am going with SRP-212135 Pistons for the build now..

http://www.jegs.com/i/SRP/867/212135/10002/-1

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...psehj1tvpa.jpg

Just to provide an update, behind schedule due to the rainy weather we've been seeing here in Maryland but I made some progress on the build nonetheless. The plan now is to rig it back into the engine bay on Tuesday Evening, mount/service the outdrive on Wednesday and water test on Thursday. The boat races in Cambridge, MD are this weekend so I am cutting it a bit close. I was able to clean up the engine bay wiring and routing over the weekend to eliminate a lot of subpar work that previous owners did. Here is a couple pictures of the new engine before the accessories and everything were mounted. I have a couple bolts to pick up this evening and then mount a few more things and she will be ready for Tuesday. I am anxious to say the least as everything is coming together. I am hoping for a successful commissioning and years of reliable fun with this setup. I will post some results and more pictures this weekend. If anyone happens to know belt P/N's off the cuff, let me know. I left the old belts at home this morning and was planning on picking them up today. I am running a crossover so its not the standard P/N.

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3z7u48ku.jpg

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Mr Maine, what is the reasoning of advancing it 2 more degrees? I do have the adjustable timing set for this build and already installed it at 0 on the gear. Should I take it back apart and move it up to 2* Advanced?

Josh, she looks great man. Can't wait to hear how she runs!

Looks great Josh. Wish you a solid first run and enjoyable weekend to come.

See you soon,

Chris

I have to say this is a comment worthy thread on here! Talking boosted LS motors making some nice power. Some pics of a nice engine build....

Nice break from the "how fast is a 292", "what prop should i use", "feeler whats my boat worth" or crying over broken boats....

MDW this weekend, this boat going to float?

It would just move the power band down a bit where the 230/236 is quite a bit of duration. Are you dynoing it? If the peak horsepower is at higher rpms than you want to spin this is something you could do. What was your compression ratio again?

Unfortunately I won't be able to dyno before running this year, ran out of time. I will most likely pull it this fall to get her tuned in. Here is the estimated CR..

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...psoudfdzfy.jpg

HAHA, thanks IDCE. The plan is to be on the water Friday evening! Took off work to do a full detail tomorrow. The boat races are in Cambridge, MD this weekend so I didn't want to miss it! The kids love the boat races.

Here's the update, she is back in her spot! Putting the outdrive on tonight and doing the first start/set timing/leak check before floating her. Being my first complete engine build, I am incredibly nervous since I have so much time and money invested. Plus the fact I removed a running engine to do this. HAH! Got some things to change and button up on Friday (Fuels Lines - Thanks TomZ, Res. bottle, misc. bolts) and hopefully hitting the water after a full thorough cleaning. I wish I could go wide open from the start but I will have to behave for a couple weekends. Apologies for the dark pictures, it was 10 PM last night.

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I think you should be fine with that cam and that much compression, as I though you had closer to the stock 8.6:1. At close to 9.6:1 though, I think you should be running 91 or better octane. Good luck and have fun.

What are your thoughts on the initial timing? 8*?

I would set the total at 35 degrees or so. Let the initial fall wherever it does. On the dyno with a similar engine the engine made peak power at about 37 degrees but it was only 4 or 5 more than at 35 I think.