restoring our 1990 292 SR1
#21
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Sad thing was this boat only has 299 hrs, just got neglected and left outside uncover most of the time I am guessing or there probably wouldn't be any rot.
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Looking forward to this build for sure!! Good luck with everything! Maybe i'll see it when I head to WI for business.
#23
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OK, Here am the I'm the infamous Mopower with the 272 660 HP 540s. I never added shorties because I could never find anybody who had a measurable gain out of them .Although this past march Imco was having a sale and It had me thinking gain. I had some extra money on hand having just sold my 74 Corvette. but the answer still came up no.
The end of last season a couple of guys in a Baja wanted to give me a try. Long story short I let the horses loose and showed him who the daddy was. Back at the ramp I looked at the GPS and got a surprise 86.2 mph. He didn't stand a chance and against a 2mph tide.
Formulas don't get older , they get faster AHAHAHAHAHAHA. That was with 30" Bravos
The end of last season a couple of guys in a Baja wanted to give me a try. Long story short I let the horses loose and showed him who the daddy was. Back at the ramp I looked at the GPS and got a surprise 86.2 mph. He didn't stand a chance and against a 2mph tide.
Formulas don't get older , they get faster AHAHAHAHAHAHA. That was with 30" Bravos
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Dam good to here from you, thats moving.
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I did a project to a similar scale about 6 years ago.
Personally, I wouldn't split the deck and the hull unless it was the last option. Cutting out the floor and tabbing it back in when you are done would be the way to go. I would scarf out the cut line before cutting/removing the floor so when it comes time to re-install, all you have to do is tab it in. It will still be plenty strong, I would be concerned that if you cut the deck off and then start cutting out and replacing superstructure that hull is going to move and the deck won't fit right upon re-install.
Personally, I wouldn't split the deck and the hull unless it was the last option. Cutting out the floor and tabbing it back in when you are done would be the way to go. I would scarf out the cut line before cutting/removing the floor so when it comes time to re-install, all you have to do is tab it in. It will still be plenty strong, I would be concerned that if you cut the deck off and then start cutting out and replacing superstructure that hull is going to move and the deck won't fit right upon re-install.
Last edited by c_deezy; 06-24-2016 at 09:09 PM.
#26
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My 242 had met a similar fate because Formula had made a mistake when building these boats.... only 'glassing the outward facing portion of the fuel tank bulkhead (they are all done this way). All it takes is a leaking floor seal to introduce rot into this area.
I got lucky with mine and the damage stopped at the fuel tank bulkhead itself. Everything forward was dry.
The engine stringers and the outboard stringers/equipment shelves, and transom were also bad. The engine stringers went because the through-bolts for the mounts weren't sealed, and the shelves/outboard stringers were bad because Formula screwed parts and pieces into this area again without sealant (or perhaps it was simple silicone and it failed).
My transom failed because of the Silent Thunder platform. No sealants were evident when we pulled it apart, just rubber backings. All it takes is just a little water and some warmth to ruin it all.
We cut out everything from the bulkhead back to the transom, and redid the whole thing. Every hole drilled was treated with resin, and every bolt/screw sealed with 3M 4200 or 5200 dependent upon the need.
I don't know that I'd be willing the pull the top off for this job. I saw a guy on Speedwake do the same thing, and from what I can recall I believe it went to the scrap heap.
Good luck with your project! Keep everyone updated on the progress. I know I'll be watching for sure.
I got lucky with mine and the damage stopped at the fuel tank bulkhead itself. Everything forward was dry.
The engine stringers and the outboard stringers/equipment shelves, and transom were also bad. The engine stringers went because the through-bolts for the mounts weren't sealed, and the shelves/outboard stringers were bad because Formula screwed parts and pieces into this area again without sealant (or perhaps it was simple silicone and it failed).
My transom failed because of the Silent Thunder platform. No sealants were evident when we pulled it apart, just rubber backings. All it takes is just a little water and some warmth to ruin it all.
We cut out everything from the bulkhead back to the transom, and redid the whole thing. Every hole drilled was treated with resin, and every bolt/screw sealed with 3M 4200 or 5200 dependent upon the need.
I don't know that I'd be willing the pull the top off for this job. I saw a guy on Speedwake do the same thing, and from what I can recall I believe it went to the scrap heap.
Good luck with your project! Keep everyone updated on the progress. I know I'll be watching for sure.
Last edited by TomZ; 06-25-2016 at 10:09 AM.
#28
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Some people have noted that a lot of this material was squished out of the joint during the tightening process. I have looked at my 242, and it seemed to stay where it was supposed to be.
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I do not have the literature in front of me, but yes, Formula used a structural adhesive agent called Arogrip. The bond was made with this adhesive, then the de k was thru-bolted to the hull.
Some people have noted that a lot of this material was squished out of the joint during the tightening process. I have looked at my 242, and it seemed to stay where it was supposed to be.
Some people have noted that a lot of this material was squished out of the joint during the tightening process. I have looked at my 242, and it seemed to stay where it was supposed to be.
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The deck/cockpit liner is bonded at the rubrail with the adhesive and bolted as TomZ explained . . . I think they currently use 'Plexus' adhesive http://www.itwplexus.com/ . . , but their 1990 brochure talks about 'Arogrip'.
The cockpit sole is not bonded to the stringer grid, so that is an opportunity to strengthen the boat on a re-build.
Separating the deck and hull pieces will be a bit more challenging because of the adhesive, but if the stringer grid is in bad shape (which it probably is) you will really need good access, and IMO, cutting the sole of the cockpit is not a good approach with the '2-piece' construction boats.
BTW - I have the 1990 Brochure PDF, if you would like it. Not sure if Formula has the old brochures online any more.
The cockpit sole is not bonded to the stringer grid, so that is an opportunity to strengthen the boat on a re-build.
Separating the deck and hull pieces will be a bit more challenging because of the adhesive, but if the stringer grid is in bad shape (which it probably is) you will really need good access, and IMO, cutting the sole of the cockpit is not a good approach with the '2-piece' construction boats.
BTW - I have the 1990 Brochure PDF, if you would like it. Not sure if Formula has the old brochures online any more.
Last edited by tpenfield; 07-02-2016 at 05:34 AM.