I hear ya! We're waiting for a blizzard to roll into Virginia Beach! This place is going to be shutdown for a few days!

No fun at all. I'm going to toss a heater in the bilge tonight. It's supposed to get in the 20s

These should stop reversion.
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/s...t-exhaust.html

That's a ton more than I want to spend considering the ones I have hardly any time on them. If reversion is my problem I'll try the higher idle and see how it does.

Give IMCO a call on what you can do with the risers to help out with reversion.

You might be able to weld some aluminum tubing to the inside of the riser to extend the point where water mixes.

Good idea. It didn't do this the first time I ran it in the water. Or any of the times I've ran it on the hose until just recently when i have been playing with the cap, rotor, wires, plugs, and timing module. I'll see how it does once it's actually firing correctly. Hopefully that can be some time this week.

Sorry for the delay guys. I have been on the phone with Mr gary (GLENAMY 242SS) a few times in the last few weeks. I sold the 32' sea ray and took it to the guy last Saturday, then went hog hunting on the river in the aluminum boat in 27° weather. 2 days later it was 70°+. I got back to fooling with this boat. I called the new owner of the sea ray and asked if he wanted to sell me the gnition modules. I rode out and grabbed both of them. I had a v8 24 they were v8 22. After talking with Mr Gary he said just bump initial timing up and set all in at 32. Did just that and ran it today (75°) it did wonderful. Didn't gps a wot run but it now cruises 42 mph at 3900 rpm which is just before secondarys open.

On a side note, we had 3 allisons grenade today. All friends of mine. I drug one back to the launch. He is actually one of the local marine police/alabama state troopers. Good to have on your side lol.
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/t...0115171623.jpg

What do you mean grenade? To me that means blow an engine, that thing looks sunk.

Glad you got your engine running right

Allison #1 got a gear case while running high 90s. Lucky he didn't blow out and get injured. Allison #2 in the picture was cruising along mid 50s when the power head decided to lock up. Not sunk, just how it sits with no one in it. Allison #3 slung a rod when the happy gas solenoid appeared to have stuck open.

I have ran a hydrostream with all the allison guys for years and they liked to give me jokes about its lack of handling under 60mph. They had no jokes on the formula and have now started calling the it tow mater lol...

Good to see the 242 is working out for ya. We love ours.

I like it so far. Still have stereo to do and going to recover the bench part of the rear seat. The stitching is starting to come undone. Also going to order the taylormade umbrella.

Glad to hear it was a module issue and that you're out using her!

Keep an eye on the reversion deal. Everyone once in a while, pull the riser to see if there's any water pooling at the bottom of the runner. Like I was saying previously, that cam has a good amount of overlap and could revert water at idle.

Will do. If it ever does get cold enough long enough that I winterize it I'll pull one of the risers. Once the module went on and the timing set to10-11 at idle, 4-5k it was between 30-33 (my old school test light isn't the best) it runs rather well. I did give it a wot blast for about 5 seconds or so and it hit 51-5200 and kind of acted like it was hitting a Rev limiter? I cruise it at 3500-3900 so not too worried but would like to know what it was.

Actually, what you want to do with checking for reversion is to set the "at rest" angle via the trailer, then run her on the hose, idle only. Shut her down, and pull a riser, and check for water. I wouldn't do it during winterization. Make sure to have a gasket on hand.

Regarding the rev limiter deal... not sure there. The TB-IV doesn't have a rev limiter built into it. Could be a couple things:

1. Valve float, but I think you'd have to some weak valve springs
2. Weak coil

Double check the timing to make sure you're not overly advanced. The V8-22 module (depending on which one you have) hits peak advance at over 4k rpm. Use a timing light that can see advance and rpm, and set the total timing at 34 degrees. You may need to really rev her on the hose to do that (might want to do it in the water instead). See how she does from there. Initial should be 12 degrees, but that could be a moving target due to build tolerances of the module.

A way, just some ideas.

That's where I had it but Mr gary told me to back it down to 32 total. I guess I need to find someone with a nice timing light I can borrow.

32 total is definitely safe, but she'll probably like more. 32 gets you a good starting point.

Re: timing lights... I use two, both Actrons. One is a digital unit with all the bells and whistles. It's a good unit and cost about $100. The other is an old analog basic unit that I use to backup what I see with the digital.

How is your carb jetted? What are you running for flame arrestor?

You know what ?....if you're going to be doing this...buy a good timing light !! It's a lot cheaper than running around not knowing where the timing is set...plus it will let you know when you have a problem like a loose or worn out timing chain.

Or you could borrow this one for $100 and keep it. (timing light)
https://pensacola.craigslist.org/tls/5950720745.html

There you go...

[QUOTE=Redneckcustoms13;4520133]Will do. If it ever does get cold enough long enough that I winterize it I'll pull one of the risers. Once the module went on and the timing set to10

In 5 sec. I wouldn't even be able to trim it out properly (guess I'm slow). At 5,100-5,200 rpm the revs will come slower and with proper trim. Maybe try a longer wot and get a better feel for what it is really doing.

That is trimmed all the way out

Remember I still have the little 19p prop on it to. It gets 5200 quick. Ill borrow a timing light from my snap on man and make sure but I'm fairly confident it is at 31-33 that was at 4800 on the tach

I think you're cheating yourself with the 19" pitch...remember...the big advantage to that Big Block is the TQ so you can use that low end power to turn a bigger prop. I'm guessing a 21" Mirage Plus is going to give you your best overall performance. Don't forget to read your plugs after one of those hard runs. A lean condition will show up as a white colored electrode...your best mix of timing and mixture will be a brown colored electrode. It really is a trial and error process but it looks like you're on track to focus in on it...good luck.

I don't mean to disagree, but with ethanol fuel anything but extremely rich will have a white electrode. Shut down wide open and read the base ring

Thanks for the input guys. I actually took it to the launch this evening to re work the bow stop and winch. Spent till now on the creek but in a small center console with a friend. The 242 spent the evening under the cover at the launch.

I Think he knows it is under propped as is. That is the problem, the engine was built with a higher rpm intended and if he can only get 5200 with it being under propped there is something else holding the revs back. Is this not an accurate summation?

What model of prop is on it?

I had a similar situation with twins in my 255. My cure was removing any fuel line restrictions...but especially air volume in the bilge. It may not be the case here but with mine running twin SBC's ...drilling 2" holes between the cockpit and bilge picked up 200~300 RPM. A BBC turning 5200 RPM is pulling a big volume of fuel and air. It may be running out of air at that RPM...you never know. It's simple enough to crack open the sunpad a bit to find out...that's how I discovered mine.

Mr gary, yes your assumption is an accurate statement. I haven't dug too far into the high rpm runs yet. Just enjoying the cruise speed right now.
Tom to answer your question
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/t...2/IMG_0134.jpg

http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/t...2/IMG_0133.jpg

prop it rite - 23p prop on a 240 rent borrow buddy boat shop easy / or 21 be close try it check rpm

I am a fan of 4-blade props on my boat, but I'm running a Bravo 1 26 that has been worked ANd pushing a ton of power.

I think I'd try a 23 pitch Mirage Plus (3-blade) and see how she works that way.

I'm keeping eyes out locally for something to try. Right now I'm happy with it the the way it is.

my boat came with a 21 mirage plus and the 850 hour 330hp turns it just shy of 4800 rpm. i tried a 23 m+ and would only spin it to 4300, not surprisingly. i forget what you're running for power, but there's that for reference.

I'm running about 420-425. I'm going to keep my eyes out for a 22 1 bravo 1 4 blade or a 23 mirage plus locally to borrow. I have plenty of 3 blades to play with but pretty sure they won't be worth the time.

yeah i'd bet a 23 mirage plus would be close. i'm pretty sure the Bravo 1 4-blades are even number pitch, and i'd think a 22 would be what you'd need? i'm looking to try a 22p B1 this summer on mine.

I edited it. I meant 22 these tiny keyboards in phones kind of suck.

what rpm are you shooting for?

5200 wot

I found a 23 4 blade trophy. Anyone have input on if I should try it or not?