Fresh water flush options
 

Hey, on my 303, I need to figure out the best way to get these motors flushed. Being that it is hanging on a lift, it is extremely difficult to accomplish this task with the lift configuration I have now. So, question is, would it be better to get a full length rear service platform to get awesome access to both motors and drives? That way I would utilize the "ear muff" method to flush each motor. Or, would it be better to have a pair of flush kits installed in the motor compartment (or under the seat or on the transom (cut holes, ugh)) and connect a hose to the inside compartment and flush that way? A full length platform with necessary attachments and upgrades will probably run $1000-1500 (max). I am not sure what the flush kits go for these days, but I am pretty sure they would be alot cheaper, like $6-800 installed.
What do ya'll think? Also, what about the Salt Away or similar products? Are they worth it? Right now, the water is very fresh (and brown) because of the millions of gallons of fresh water being dumped into the river from Lake Okeechobee. In January or February, it'll be a different story unless we have a very wet "winter".

Why can't you put muffs on the engines with it on the lift? Maybe be in a small inflatable boat or aluminum boat.

That's a tough decision to make, a lot depends on the flush system you'd add to the boat. Some of those plastic ones have horror stories and can put your boat at the bottom if they bust, but the ease of use is a very nice perk. How often do you use the boat? The flush sys might be better if you're a frequent boater. With your lift, can you drop a 2x12 down across the back of your lift so you can walk across and access the drives that way?

We've been running Salt Away thru the drives & intercoolers after each use for 2 yrs now, pulled the manifolds off this fall and they were in good shape. Salt away is great stuff, use it to rinse down the trailer too.

I thought about the 2x12 but I figured if the slip was wide enough the 2x12 would bow in the middle and your freeze your butt off when you fell in.

There are a few kits out there to add a garden hose fitting to your bilge. It's been discussed a few times here on the past. Search "fresh water flush kit" or similar. This is THE way to go, and ONLY do so with a T-fitting that does NOT have a check-ball or other restriction in it. All you need is a 'wide open" Tee-fitting. When you turn on the hose, it flushes from the T-fitting back out the drive. When you turn on the engine, it sucks the water right into the SWP. The Tee-fitting get installed between the transom assembly and the SWP.

Oh yeah, and F using muffs on a drive. I hate it, PITFA. Albeit, I am forced to do so on my old Mercury outboard on my little cat.

I bought the merc kit then had a panel made for the fresh water fill and engine flush and mounted it in the engine compartment

I have an 8' long platform attached to the back of my lift. I use it all the time. There are cheaper ways to flush your engines, but the platform allows me to easily clean and wax the transom, same for the engines (Verados). I also use it for engine and drive oil changes. If you are looking at it for more than just flushing the engines, it is priceless.

I kinda agree with you on the muffs, but I don't know if I want to worry about fittings failing etc. That T you are talking about must mean that the flush fitting would get mounted pretty high up in the engine compartment, right?

Yeah, it's like a 12' wide lift.

That looks nice!

That's the way I am leaning. I could change props, drive services, clean and wax all the transom equipment. I am going to have the lift guy do a more detailed quote. The service platform would be a two foot wide and approx' 11' long suspended from the aluminum walkboards on either side of the boat. From the design he is talking about, there would be some movement of this service platform while its being used.

2 feet wide is pretty slim. Mine is the width of the slip, 12 feet, and 8 feet out the back of the boat. Plenty of room to work with engines down, or tilted up without wondering when I'm going to fall in the drink. There have been plenty of times that I dropped a gasket, or an oil or lower unit drain plug that I was glad I had the extra area for it to roll around and not go in the water.

CRC Salt Terminator is worth every penny.

Mentalpause, you got any pictures or details of how that platform is attached to the back of the lift? It seems like the lift has to lift a ton of water when the boat is being lifted up. I don't think that would be a problem for me though, since the lift is rated for up to 24k pounds and the boat is only ~9k pounds. One other thought, would that much wood make the lift float?
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I don't have any personal experience, but member ActiveShack had a 2' wide 'cat-walk' across the back of his lift, and he was able to do all maintenance and cleaning on his 37' Active Thunder; and his stuff was always perfect. Obviously, 4-5' would be a ton better.

The deck frame is galvanized steel, built much like floor joists. The top decking is not wood, it is plastic decking. The frame is attached in a cantilever style approach to the frame members of the lift. I can't remember how much of the deck members bolt along the lift frame members horizontally, but pretty sure it is around 2-3 feet overlap on each side. I'm not at the lake now so I can't take pictures or measure it. but your lift company should know how to tie it in to support the load.

The lift comes up fairly slow with the boat on it, so the water just runs off the sides as it lifts up. It is not a problem. And there is no way that little bit of decking is going to make all that galvanized steel float. My lift is 17K with a 9k boat on it. The last boat I had was closer to 13K and I had no issues with it either. You can easily add whatever size deck you want if you have a 9K boat on a 24K lift.

For fresh water flush...

For each engine.
This....
40615 - Webstone 40615 - 1-1/4" Pro-Pal Full Port Forged Brass Ball Valve w/ Hi-Flow Hose Drain & Reversible Handle

and two of these....
MERRILL MANUFACTURING IBMA125 1-1/4" BRASS ADAPT. MER IBMA125


I just installed these on our boat. Originally had the cheapo Perko flush/check valves. One was already replaced because it had failed and the other was cracked.
Inspiration from here:
Forum gift – winterization valve for Bravo drives Page: 1 - iboats Boating Forums | 660967

You can plumb a hose up to a readily accessible panel with appropriate hose connections. Also, makes for a easy drain on the raw water intake for those of us that have to winterize.

The system Sydwayz described is the simplest, and most elegant. I installed this on my boat years ago, and used it every season to winterize the engines with antifreeze. This same system is going into my new boat next spring.

Just install a simple inline tee before the pump, and run hose(s) to Perko water inlet hose fittings. Attach the hose, turn on water, and start the engine. When done, turn off the water. This reduces the chance of burning up impellers eliminating extra steps to remember enabling and disabling valves. With that said, if you're concerned about the plastic caps on the perko, then you can always install valves. I never had any issues with the caps.

Install the Perko fittings anywhere, or install them in the stern. You could also buy a glove box similar to photo to hide them inside the cockpit, under back seat, etc.

And steer clear of the Perko "automatic", stainless steel, spring loaded valves. I tried them twice, but it appears the springs where the weak point. Eventually temps began to rise as the spring failed, introducing air into the system and starving the engine of sea water at speed.

I agree with Keith. Added these for both motors, as well as genset and A/C, plumbed them directly into the top of each of the strainers. When flushing or winterizing, just close your seacock thru-hulls and your ready.

I like the idea of the added platform on the end of your cradle and agree with mentalpause. I trailer mine and have the flush at each engine. Simple hose plug and play. Times might be tough on dough, but maybe both.. The link to the kit is what was on mine when I bought the boat. I love it......

Hardin Marine - Engine Flush Kit Mercruiser 898235A01

Stay away from the pro flush plastic inline kit. One came apart while out boating and if I didn't notice right away we could have sank and overheated the starboard motor. It ruined our day and my raw water pump on that side. Cheap plastic. Get a metal ball valve like others have suggested. Good luck

I have the Formula Factory setup. Uses a line, but stainless ball valves and brass fitting for each motor. Don't use ANY plastic (it will fail), the ball valves will always stay shut and keep your engine healthy.

Food for thought, your seawaterpump and transom inlet housings are plastic

Rookie question:

If I add a T to the inlet hose (from the transom assembly to the bravo pump) between the TA and bravo pump to flush my motor, heat exchangers etc, instead of using muffs on the drive, I'm ok doing that, no problem with the drive or anything else upstream from the T that will no longer be getting water?

thanks