242 Electrical problems
#12
One other trick if you have a draw is to take off the ground wire and put a test light btwn the ground post on the battery and the lead that you took off the ground. If there is a draw the light will light up. You can pull fuses and wires tell you see the light go out.
Jon
Jon
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#13
Registered
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 2,896
Likes: 3
From: Eastern Lake Ontario
Originally Posted by 5PMSMWHR
Third,
I beg to differ with you on this one, but..... The "fog horn" was a 242 option on models sold in the coastal new england and pacific northwest.
I beg to differ with you on this one, but..... The "fog horn" was a 242 option on models sold in the coastal new england and pacific northwest.
#14
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Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 4,815
Likes: 42
From: 1000 Islands
have no fear Third...he's FOS as usual.
Though with him frequenting the Formula forums...you have to wonder if there isn't method to his madness.
BTW...I'll get that carpet out of the boat. I was over there the other day, but it was so cold (10*) I didn't want to uncover and crawl on the vinyl. Soon
I'm in the process of buying the place where the boat's stored, so I'm definitely looking to sell that carpet, every buck counts right now.
Though with him frequenting the Formula forums...you have to wonder if there isn't method to his madness.
BTW...I'll get that carpet out of the boat. I was over there the other day, but it was so cold (10*) I didn't want to uncover and crawl on the vinyl. Soon
I'm in the process of buying the place where the boat's stored, so I'm definitely looking to sell that carpet, every buck counts right now.
#15
Originally Posted by Audiofn
One other trick if you have a draw is to take off the ground wire and put a test light btwn the ground post on the battery and the lead that you took off the ground. If there is a draw the light will light up. You can pull fuses and wires tell you see the light go out.
Jon
Jon
Jon, THANK YOU..... I saw a buddy of mine do that a couple of years ago and for the life of me I couldn't think of what he did. Worked great, the third item he tested was the cuprit.
Now I can sleep tonight.....
#16
Registered
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 2,896
Likes: 3
From: Eastern Lake Ontario
Originally Posted by Rippem
BTW...I'll get that carpet out of the boat. I was over there the other day, but it was so cold (10*) I didn't want to uncover and crawl on the vinyl. Soon
I'm in the process of buying the place where the boat's stored, so I'm definitely looking to sell that carpet, every buck counts right now.
I'm in the process of buying the place where the boat's stored, so I'm definitely looking to sell that carpet, every buck counts right now.
Good luck with the real estate deal!!
#17
Well,
Just got back from the Boat Yard. Still none the wiser!
I have dismantled, cleaned and re-connected the main block connectors behind the dash panel and im happy that they are ok.
The radio still cuts out when the volume is cranked up though.
I have checked the live and earth connections and both check out ok.
When the horn button is pushed the horn does not operate but the radio cuts out! (The air horn was fitted at the factory. This boat was ordered for the UK and not imported over later).
The horn circuit has its own trip switch as does the radio.
I have a single engine installation with two batteries fitted.
If i disconnect the starter battery completely, then put a test meter between the + battery lead and the + battery terminal i get a reading of 12 volts! this is with the battery isolator switch turned off and all trip switches pulled! Where could the leak be?
Could it be the battery cables themselves and how do i test them?
Is there any electrical items that should still work with the swithes pulled? Bilge pump? Power Trim/Tilt?
One last thing, what is the correct procedure for checking a switch?
Sorry to be a pain guys, i realise that it is difficult to diagnose things from over the net, but im just hoping that someone will be able to see something that i cant. (Cant see the wood for the trees at the moment).
Your help is really appreciated.
Just got back from the Boat Yard. Still none the wiser!
I have dismantled, cleaned and re-connected the main block connectors behind the dash panel and im happy that they are ok.
The radio still cuts out when the volume is cranked up though.
I have checked the live and earth connections and both check out ok.
When the horn button is pushed the horn does not operate but the radio cuts out! (The air horn was fitted at the factory. This boat was ordered for the UK and not imported over later).
The horn circuit has its own trip switch as does the radio.
I have a single engine installation with two batteries fitted.
If i disconnect the starter battery completely, then put a test meter between the + battery lead and the + battery terminal i get a reading of 12 volts! this is with the battery isolator switch turned off and all trip switches pulled! Where could the leak be?
Could it be the battery cables themselves and how do i test them?
Is there any electrical items that should still work with the swithes pulled? Bilge pump? Power Trim/Tilt?
One last thing, what is the correct procedure for checking a switch?
Sorry to be a pain guys, i realise that it is difficult to diagnose things from over the net, but im just hoping that someone will be able to see something that i cant. (Cant see the wood for the trees at the moment).
Your help is really appreciated.
#18
One more thing i just remembered whilst in the bath.
The air horn must have a relay in the circuit because the wire guage at the switch is much smaller than at the air horn pump!
Any ideas where i might find the relay?
The air horn must have a relay in the circuit because the wire guage at the switch is much smaller than at the air horn pump!
Any ideas where i might find the relay?




