Interesting responses.

Anyone have dealings with Tom McNabb of Morris, IL? I would like to talk with somone that has had work done at his shop? I guess, I'll have to call him and ask for client list.

Rebel Heart, Why don't you get a 6 or 8 foot straight edge and check your bottom from chine to chine. See how straight it is. If its straight don't expect a big gain. The low spots , hook is what sucks the speed. Might as well know what you got.
Jim

I've had glass work ,paint work, & STEVIE at NABBERS shop blueprinted our SKATER.
BILL 815-693-3031

I will put a straight edge to the bottom to see how far it is off.

Runninhotracing - I'll give you a call about Nabbers.

Flying J - appreciate the info. on Reedy Marine.

Hey Rebel,
Are you going down this weekend? We'll be there Friday and Saturday. I had a guy check for a hook on mine this spring. It was not as easy to detect as I thought. He moved the straight edge into several different positions before telling where and how much hook I had. He then explained how it should be fixed. I am looking into some different options this winter. If your headed to F&L, stop by and have a cold one.

Doug

waterbum - I am coming down this weekend and Frankie and Louies is always a good stop. I looked for your place several weeks ago but I couldn't find it. I spoke to someone that had a 35' just into the no wake zone, but he didn't know you. You'll have to give me directions, again.

To fill you guys in a little more.

When you build a boat, regardless of how straight the mold is the hull shrinks as it cures. This is one of the reasons they release from the mold.
The biggest issue is heat, good shops can control the exotherm in the resin, but most cannot control the humidity or air temp, a hot boat will shrink more. Generally winter built boats are better.
As for the shrinkage, all the straight hard lines on the hull do a better job of retaining there design shape better than large flat surfaces. So the edges for the transom, chines and strakes typically hold, and the big flat areas between them shrink causing a concave area. This is most noticed in front of the transom as this is the most ridged part of the hull...... and hence the hook. A good shop will grind off the gel and fill the hook with structural filler then regel the hull...... and real good guys will leave the finish in 400 grit, with the sanding lines following the direction of water flow......... this last bit is only ok for boats that are kept on lifts or are trailer queens. As gel is like your skin and will absorb anything....meaning it will stain.
Lastly... NEVER and I repeat NEVER wax your bottom.

RT

Rebel,
The place is 1/4 mile before the no wake zone starts. It's about half way between the main channel and where the no wake starts on the east side of the cove. I can email my phone number if that helps.

Hope to see you this weekend. It is supposed to be nice and sunny.

RBT, Sounds like you know exactly what to do with the bottoms. Everything you just said, is the same things that Nabbers shop has told me over the years.

Good information you just posted.

Runninhotracing - I appreciate the information that we talked about this afternoon.

I am still concerned about the $4,000 price for doing a 35' boat. Does anyone else think this a little steep?