rub-rails
08-26-2009, 09:51 AM
#11
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That is correct, you will have to change out the base as well. Trust me, it is well worth the extra effort. Use a heat gun for the base and it forms very easily. The new base will not match exactly to the old one, so use 5200 to seal the old holes and wet install the new screws to ensure they do not leak. When working the stainless insert use a dead blow hammer and is will form easily was well.
08-26-2009, 09:58 AM
#12
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When I did mine, the factory had the best prices by a good margin. I would call them and ask. They will certainly know how much material you need even if they do not have the parts in inventory. I want to say it cost me ~$350 in parts with freight for my 38, but that was about four years ago.
04-20-2010, 09:56 PM
#13
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Anyone else done the stainless steel upgrade? where is the best place to buy? And what is the current cost?
I am re rigging my engine bay completely and have almost gotten obsessed with stopping the water leaks. THe rub rail is somthing that has been brought up more than once for leaking and it is the last thing to change. I want to update so now is the time!!!!!!
I am re rigging my engine bay completely and have almost gotten obsessed with stopping the water leaks. THe rub rail is somthing that has been brought up more than once for leaking and it is the last thing to change. I want to update so now is the time!!!!!!
04-20-2010, 11:52 PM
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I re-did my old 260 sea ray a couple years back.If I remember correctly I spent $ 1-2 hundred on parts (aka the newer pvc style w/ ss insert) I bought the PCV in 10 or 15 ft sections and the ss insert around the same length at the sea ray dealer.It wasnt to hard to do acually but I would recommend having a friend come help out(makes it alot easier having someone hold the other end as your drilling,aligning and sinking the screws) and have a s-ton of 4200 sealant on hand.
Last edited by 10K4U; 04-20-2010 at 11:55 PM.
04-21-2010, 12:00 AM
#15
Stainless cost a lot to ship so usually your best bet it to find a local source. The inserts are cheap at Barbour plastics in FLA but they will only sell set quantities of most of their extrusions.
www.bowkersfiberglass.com
www.bowkersfiberglass.com
04-21-2010, 06:56 AM
#16
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so,does anybody know how the factory bends a nice ,tight bend around the beak?i have seen a few fountains that have had there rails redone and the bend is not as tight as the factory.
