Trim Tab Cable Replacement
#1
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Trim Tab Cable Replacement
Hi Gang,
I need to replace my Port K-Plane trim cable as it broke/rotted on the tab end.
Other than ordering the correct cable (size/type) are there any other parts that need to be ordered? I see that the cable passes through the tab transom plate via a large nut arrangement which looks like it has a plastic bushing on the inside. One I remove the nut and bushing can they be re-used? Also, there is a rubber boot on the exposed end of the cable. Is that just heat shrink tubing or something specific to keep the cable end dry?
Finally looking on the inside of the transom it looks like fountain really gooped up the cable coming through with caulk or epoxy. Is this going to make it difficult to remove the old cable to pull the new one through.
Finally, finally, anyone have any problem with pulling the new cable through to the helm using the old cable? Or are they tie wraps along the way too tight?
Thanks in advance for your help.
I need to replace my Port K-Plane trim cable as it broke/rotted on the tab end.
Other than ordering the correct cable (size/type) are there any other parts that need to be ordered? I see that the cable passes through the tab transom plate via a large nut arrangement which looks like it has a plastic bushing on the inside. One I remove the nut and bushing can they be re-used? Also, there is a rubber boot on the exposed end of the cable. Is that just heat shrink tubing or something specific to keep the cable end dry?
Finally looking on the inside of the transom it looks like fountain really gooped up the cable coming through with caulk or epoxy. Is this going to make it difficult to remove the old cable to pull the new one through.
Finally, finally, anyone have any problem with pulling the new cable through to the helm using the old cable? Or are they tie wraps along the way too tight?
Thanks in advance for your help.
#2
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The rubber "boot" is just heat shrink tubing.
You need to be careful using the old cable to pull the new one through. Those cables run in the same bundles as many of the wires. Near the driver's seat, many of those wires have bullet connectors. I had one trim tab cable replaced about 2 years ago. Mechanic said the hardest part of the job was disassembling/re-assembling the cable up inside the dashboard. I never run the boat at night, but last year we stayed out after dusk one time and when I put the stern light in, it didn't work ... had power at the dashboard and in the wires coming out of the switch, just no power in wires beyond midship. To make a long story short, turned out that when the trim tab cable was pulled through, it evidently pulled the bullet connector apart for the stern light. It took quite a bit of work find the stern light problem, but was a very simple fix (push the connector back together).
You need to be careful using the old cable to pull the new one through. Those cables run in the same bundles as many of the wires. Near the driver's seat, many of those wires have bullet connectors. I had one trim tab cable replaced about 2 years ago. Mechanic said the hardest part of the job was disassembling/re-assembling the cable up inside the dashboard. I never run the boat at night, but last year we stayed out after dusk one time and when I put the stern light in, it didn't work ... had power at the dashboard and in the wires coming out of the switch, just no power in wires beyond midship. To make a long story short, turned out that when the trim tab cable was pulled through, it evidently pulled the bullet connector apart for the stern light. It took quite a bit of work find the stern light problem, but was a very simple fix (push the connector back together).
Last edited by bob_t; 05-28-2011 at 07:48 PM.
#3
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One other thought is it easier to deal with the indicator connection from underneath the dash and reach up or can I unscrew the dash panel and tilt it open for access to the connections?
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Join Date: Nov 2009
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You dont need to use the old one just keep pushing it through. you should have a access pannel on the way up if it gets stuck. I reused the rubber and plastic with no problems the toughest part was getting the cable out of the factory hole. I ended up having to cut it out on both sides and finally drill out the hole. You can get to the cables under the dash pretty easy. Dont break the set screw that holds the cable. When locking down the compression nut, put the tabs all the way up to take out the slack then tighten the nut.
#5
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Thanks!
Sounds like cutting the bad cable is the easiest way to go and just pass the new one through.
I'll have to look under the dash again. I haven't quite figured out how the cable is held into the gauge. It looks like the pointer is screwed into the top nut. The spring hangs off of the back of it. And the cable slides up into the bracket from the bottom. Does the top threaded have to come off for it to slide through? I don't see where the set screw is? One for each indicator or two for the whole unit?
Sounds like cutting the bad cable is the easiest way to go and just pass the new one through.
I'll have to look under the dash again. I haven't quite figured out how the cable is held into the gauge. It looks like the pointer is screwed into the top nut. The spring hangs off of the back of it. And the cable slides up into the bracket from the bottom. Does the top threaded have to come off for it to slide through? I don't see where the set screw is? One for each indicator or two for the whole unit?