Another Winterizing Thread.....well sort of.
#11
I think sydwayz posted a link to another thread but this is the process I followed for my 525EFI's and I'm sure it would apply for you as well. I have a freshwater flush hookup as well. For each engine I did the following:
1) Ran the motor on fresh water for 15 minutes; ran Salt-Away through for the first minute and then let the motor run for another 14. (we boat in saltwater, I want to make sure it's ALL out).
2) Changed oil and oil filter.
3) Shut valve on fuel line then hooked up my 6 gallon external fuel tank containing fogging cocktail (5 gals of 89 octane gas, 1/2 gallon of 2 cycle oil and 5 oz of Mercury Fuel Stabilizer)
4) Ran the engine on the fogging mixture while still hooked up to fresh water (ran the engine at idle for 5 mins, 1200 RPM for another 5 minutes, and then back at idle for another 3-4 mins); basically until it was smoking pretty good.
5) Let engine cool off, then opened drains on headers, oil and fuel coolers to get as much water out as possible
6) Hooked up my air compressor to the fresh water flush with one of these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00..._email_1p_4_ti that I had connected to a tire inflator so I could control the bursts of air through the system and pushed as much of the water out of the system as I could.
7) Closed all of the drains and hooked up one end of short hose to freshwater flush; the other into the bottom of a 5 gallon pail filled with antifreeze
8) Ran 6 gallons of antifreeze through the engine still connected to fogging cocktail (had to pour a few gallons in while the engine was running) and made sure it was coming through the exhaust.
9) Filled sea strainer with anti-freeze
10) Drained gas tank by hooking up small 12V fuel pump to the fuel line I had disconnected and empyting into a bunch of gas cans.
On point #10, there are differing opinions on leaving the tanks empty or full because of condensation. I've been told by a few surveyors and other knowledgeable people that if your gas contains ethanol which most does, you want as little of it left as possible as no matter how much stabilizer you add, you cannot stop the water absorption due to the alcohol and the less you have the better. Then in the spring, you add a full tank of fresh gas and a water emulsifier like MDR e-Zorb and you're good to go.
1) Ran the motor on fresh water for 15 minutes; ran Salt-Away through for the first minute and then let the motor run for another 14. (we boat in saltwater, I want to make sure it's ALL out).
2) Changed oil and oil filter.
3) Shut valve on fuel line then hooked up my 6 gallon external fuel tank containing fogging cocktail (5 gals of 89 octane gas, 1/2 gallon of 2 cycle oil and 5 oz of Mercury Fuel Stabilizer)
4) Ran the engine on the fogging mixture while still hooked up to fresh water (ran the engine at idle for 5 mins, 1200 RPM for another 5 minutes, and then back at idle for another 3-4 mins); basically until it was smoking pretty good.
5) Let engine cool off, then opened drains on headers, oil and fuel coolers to get as much water out as possible
6) Hooked up my air compressor to the fresh water flush with one of these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00..._email_1p_4_ti that I had connected to a tire inflator so I could control the bursts of air through the system and pushed as much of the water out of the system as I could.
7) Closed all of the drains and hooked up one end of short hose to freshwater flush; the other into the bottom of a 5 gallon pail filled with antifreeze
8) Ran 6 gallons of antifreeze through the engine still connected to fogging cocktail (had to pour a few gallons in while the engine was running) and made sure it was coming through the exhaust.
9) Filled sea strainer with anti-freeze
10) Drained gas tank by hooking up small 12V fuel pump to the fuel line I had disconnected and empyting into a bunch of gas cans.
On point #10, there are differing opinions on leaving the tanks empty or full because of condensation. I've been told by a few surveyors and other knowledgeable people that if your gas contains ethanol which most does, you want as little of it left as possible as no matter how much stabilizer you add, you cannot stop the water absorption due to the alcohol and the less you have the better. Then in the spring, you add a full tank of fresh gas and a water emulsifier like MDR e-Zorb and you're good to go.
#12
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This is my 4th boat and every time I winterize, I pull the plugs to drain my block and manifolds and unhook waterlines from my water pump. I winterized my houseboat generator with antifreeze one time and it deteriorated the impeller so I don't use antifreeze anymore. What are the draw backs by doing it this way? I have a 500 blue motor.
#13
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Thousand Islands area
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This is my 4th boat and every time I winterize, I pull the plugs to drain my block and manifolds and unhook waterlines from my water pump. I winterized my houseboat generator with antifreeze one time and it deteriorated the impeller so I don't use antifreeze anymore. What are the draw backs by doing it this way? I have a 500 blue motor.
You also live in KY, where you can probably get away with some water in the block, but live up north with sustained temps in the low teens to below zero, you need anti freeze in the engine.
#14
Registered
I always drained my block and headers then ran the pink stuff through the motors.
I put a small air fitting on the tank I used and would put 2-3 lbs on it, this way it would force anti freeze through the outdrives before I changed the valves and ran it through the motors.
BTW
I used the stock factory flush fittings that fountain had installed.
I put a small air fitting on the tank I used and would put 2-3 lbs on it, this way it would force anti freeze through the outdrives before I changed the valves and ran it through the motors.
BTW
I used the stock factory flush fittings that fountain had installed.