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Old 04-18-2014 | 01:13 PM
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I was wondering if anybody ever thought of moving the bilge pump outlets further up away from the water line? Yes I know the bilge lines run up then down to the exit but in rougher water it worries me that the outlet will go under while sitting.

Same with the rear vents, anyone ever filled them and put some on the side like the early non step hulls?

Again I know the tubes run forward, and what US1 did. But he isn't going to make me any so that doesn't help.

Just wondering if it would be something to do.
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Old 04-18-2014 | 02:55 PM
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Yes water intrution is an issue with the large step 32. With a 6 in chop or more the bilge run constanlty due to the rear air vent holes. Scary to sit while the lakes are rolling. Ha
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Old 04-18-2014 | 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by BLUEMAGIC
Yes water intrution is an issue with the large step 32. With a 6 in chop or more the bilge run constanlty due to the rear air vent holes. Scary to sit while the lakes are rolling. Ha
And when I get back on the water it won't be a lake.
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Old 04-18-2014 | 06:58 PM
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Check valve the bilge outlet
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Old 04-18-2014 | 08:57 PM
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You shouldn't get a rush of water into the sides to push water up that loop. If you were to install a check valve, I'd put it right at the thru hull so it wouldn't hold water in the hose. If at the pump, your pump may not be able to overcome the weight of the water in the hose. Not like our bilge pumps are positive displacements.

I think a grill over the vent holes should be enough to break the inrush of water from the rear. Fountain put those vents over the rear vent holes later on.
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Old 04-18-2014 | 09:48 PM
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Jerry, US1 yes at the very least , you don't happen to have drawings of what you did?

As for the budge pump, I do remember a thread about check valves, where can I get them?
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Old 04-18-2014 | 10:46 PM
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No prints. I made the tubes, then slipped them in the holes and then transferred the angle to the tubes. Cut and welded on the flanges then finish work. They are not interchangeable.. A slight deviation between sides. If I were to have made the tube inserts a little looser to allow them some room to move, then I could have made them the same. But us tool makers make chit exact.

I've bought check valves from Defenders, McMasterCarr, .....pick your poison. You get that water leak figured out, just tap the thru hulls and screw in pipe plugs from the outside. No water will get in.
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Old 04-19-2014 | 12:15 AM
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I bought the vents from Fountain
Attached Thumbnails Step 32 owners-m7.jpg  
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Old 04-19-2014 | 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by US1 Fountain
No prints. I made the tubes, then slipped them in the holes and then transferred the angle to the tubes. Cut and welded on the flanges then finish work. They are not interchangeable.. A slight deviation between sides. If I were to have made the tube inserts a little looser to allow them some room to move, then I could have made them the same. But us tool makers make chit exact.

I've bought check valves from Defenders, McMasterCarr, .....pick your poison. You get that water leak figured out, just tap the thru hulls and screw in pipe plugs from the outside. No water will get in.
Sure did, some quality work right here. I think it was leaking from day one.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]522294[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]522295[/ATTACH]
Attached Thumbnails Step 32 owners-boat-rebuild-2013-2014-32.jpg   Step 32 owners-boat-rebuild-2013-2014-53.jpg  
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Old 04-19-2014 | 02:00 PM
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Gotta admit, I was afraid that's what was up because you always had that rust streak running down from your TA whenever you lifted the boat out. So you getting the whole transom replaced? What the hells up with the bolt holes that are 1/2 out of the wood? Chain must have been dull that week! Kinda makes you think Fountain just slapped these boats together. From seeing how a lot of the assembling is done, Id say that's a pretty accurate statement.
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