5k more for Myco Trailer
#11
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Location: Lehigh Valley, Pennsylvania
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Re: 5k more for Myco Trailer
What kind of trailer does vanguard make? Steel, aluminum? I've been looking for other than myco that does welded aluminum, non bolted together. Does vanguard have a website?
#12
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Re: 5k more for Myco Trailer
Had alot of different ones thru the years. There were some good ones but not as good as the Myco. I wont own another brand anymore
Myco all the way
Myco all the way
#13
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Re: 5k more for Myco Trailer
I agree that you should check into a Manning. They are much closer to you, build a strong trailer, and costs less than the MYCO (probably more than the Vanguard).
#14
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Re: 5k more for Myco Trailer
My thoughts are Myco first and Manning second. Do the research. How much trailering do you do. Electric over hydralic is a must. Here is a picture of mine and it is a manning with Marc Blondin.
#18
Re: 5k more for Myco Trailer
I've never had problems with any of my trailers and none of them were Myco's... My only problems lied in the dam tires blowing out...
I guess it all depends on how much towing you'll be doing and I've always heard Myco makes the best...
I guess it all depends on how much towing you'll be doing and I've always heard Myco makes the best...
#19
BRAD SCHOENWALD
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Re: 5k more for Myco Trailer
Originally Posted by otis311
Had alot of different ones thru the years. There were some good ones but not as good as the Myco. I wont own another brand anymore
Myco all the way
Myco all the way
Completely agree.. I have a float-on for my fishboat and have used many different trailers. Myco is well worth the $$$. You get what you pay for and we are not trailering inexpensive boats around.
#20
Registered
Re: 5k more for Myco Trailer
what a bunch of BS on a beat to death subject...
trailer breaking down?
what about it? Kodiak disc brakes? Axis or Dexter axles? Dico or Tie down coupler/master cylinders? The lights?
all common vendors to all trailers these days. So what's left? What's the real difference in the ancillary parts? Little if any at all.
The welded or bolted argument for 5K?
O.K. so again like so many of these threads, if $ no object why ask and get the Myco.
Otherwise get the aluminum and save some seriou$ dollars. If your not the type to regularly look the trailer over you shouldn't be trailering anyway.
On an aluminum flyer, specify all stainless hardware and a couple extra bunks in the right places. That's all. They don't come unbolted going down the road. They are typically put together with all nyloc nuts...they don't back off. Though on the one I had I would check them all anyway a couple times a season. Never got anything on them.
I found the Towmaster I had to be dependable and cosmetically low maintenence.
trailer breaking down?
what about it? Kodiak disc brakes? Axis or Dexter axles? Dico or Tie down coupler/master cylinders? The lights?
all common vendors to all trailers these days. So what's left? What's the real difference in the ancillary parts? Little if any at all.
The welded or bolted argument for 5K?
O.K. so again like so many of these threads, if $ no object why ask and get the Myco.
Otherwise get the aluminum and save some seriou$ dollars. If your not the type to regularly look the trailer over you shouldn't be trailering anyway.
On an aluminum flyer, specify all stainless hardware and a couple extra bunks in the right places. That's all. They don't come unbolted going down the road. They are typically put together with all nyloc nuts...they don't back off. Though on the one I had I would check them all anyway a couple times a season. Never got anything on them.
I found the Towmaster I had to be dependable and cosmetically low maintenence.