My swim platform needs a facelift, and I removed it to re-surface it . I was going to dis-assemble the whole puzzle, to sand it all down properly, but then was wondering how a good sandblast, using walnut shells or similar would work, thus avoiding taking the whole thing apart, and still being able to get inside the nooks and crannies. Anybody ever tried this on teak? And, as far as finishing it off again, can anyone recommend a good teak oil that lasts for a while??

I think that would be a bad idea. You would make your teak fuzzy.
Same reason that you shouldn't sand it.

Take the whole assy off (as "together" as possible.)

Do a good quality three step process (cleaner, brightener, new oil.)
Use the good oil. It makes all the difference.

Don't use anything harsher than a stiff brush and stay with the grain.

Just my opinion.

Good luck!

Oh... I like Star Brite Premium. Gotta be the premium.

Thanks Fund. That was my concern as well, the fuzzying up of the wood. I have never tried a cleaner on the teak. What I am trying to do is lighten it back up again, before I re-apply the oil. I will try a good cleaner on it first.
P.S. just read your other post about the transom. I feel your pain. I would be bummin big time. But, in my own experiences, the sooner you just say F*#CK it and go after it and correct it, the better off you will be.

You are right Rich. Gotta just grab the dam sinking bull by the horns.

But anyway... I had great luck on the original '79 swim platform on my old Nova using the three step. Went from grey and ugly to a nice rich color. I just had to hit it again with the premium every few weeks. Just real quick, with an oil dampened rag. Maybe just before a run or something.

TEKA is the two step cleaner i like to use,brings it back to new with out much scrubbing,than a good quality teak oil.If your teak is on the boat and you are go to oil it be sure to have a rag with some acetone on it at the ready,if it gets on faded gelcoat it will soak in and you will never get the stain out once it sets.Also the two step cleaners are real hard on paint keep all areas around what your working on soaked and than well rinsed.

I'm with Tommy... try to take the teak off of the boat if at all possible.

I quit using the teak oil and switched to the Sikkens marine teak stain, I can't remember the name of it but it looks great and lots a long time.

Go here...Teak Guard

My ski boat community swears by it, and after trying it I can see why.

I maintain my teak by throwing it in the garbage, and replacing it with Starboard. I freaking hate teak.

Here's a swimstep I redid on my fishboat from teak to starboard.