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Dry Exhaust Vs. Wet

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Old 01-04-2006, 04:13 PM
  #21
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Default Re: Dry Exhaust Vs. Wet

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Originally Posted by Cord
I did see a boat once with dry exhaust that was running speedmaster drives. Because of the transmissions they had some extra tail pipe length to install mufflers. The mufflers looked like standard Borla muffs that were water jacketed.
Any pics and what type of boat?
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Old 01-04-2006, 10:00 PM
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Default Re: Dry Exhaust Vs. Wet

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Originally Posted by Sonny Spectre 30
What are the pro's & con's of going with dry exhaust. I am building a new boat and trying to decide.

I think I may want dry so there is no soot on transom and no exhaust mist blowing back on the boat.

Anyone's experience would be appreciated.
Don't worry about your pipes just get your call name changed damit!
Go dry
If your going to get mufflers then you can have both worlds when you choose.
Dry is loud but bad
You just can't tell your passengers to sit down and shut up.
Teach them sign language
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Old 01-04-2006, 10:21 PM
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Re: Dry Exhaust Vs. Wet

CP he's looking for switchable NOT FULL TIME which the GGBs are ,SO FREDS NOT ALL WRONG just a little bit the GGB's are full TIME RIGHT or am I wrong WE are both looking for part time muffs I am going to try a pair of SHOT GUNS I have sitting around. because I like my dry pipes and if they don't work good I'll post if they work or not.
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Old 01-05-2006, 12:42 AM
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Default Re: Dry Exhaust Vs. Wet

No, Fred is correct in a way. I have the shotguns on the tails of my stellings. Since my tail pipes are not angled down, and exit above the rub rail, other than the angle that the boat sits in the water, my tail pipes go almost straight back. There's very little angle down.
So, to keep the water from going back up the tails when the engines are off, and the boats anchored and rockin when it's choppy from alot of wave action from passing boats, here's what I did.

We called Stelling and got 4 pieces of tubing that they use for their water stingers, and welded about 6" of them onto the existing stingers on the tail pipes. Without the shotguns on, the stingers stick out about 7" past the opening of the tails.
Then I took of the baffles in the mufflers, one at a time, and marked a horseshoe shaped, or U shaped outline at 12 o'clock on the baffle. Secured the baffle in a bridgeport mill, and cut out the U shaped section. The cut needs to be 1" wide because the stinger is a piece of 3/4 tubing that has an OD of 7/8's. You only need to cut down far enough so that the stinger will not hit the baffle when the baffle is in the closed position. About 1.25" Now, the stinger exits the water about 2" past the opening of the tail pipe, and there's never a chance for reversion, or water going back up the tail pipe.

The drawback is, and I'm sure that this is what Fred was referring to, is that with NO WATER in the muffler to cool it, it gets very, VERY, hot. There's a little cylinder on the side of each muffler that has a little spring in it to keep the baffle closed. Because of the extreme heat generated from the lack of water, those cylinders are gonna fail. Guaranteed !!! I break many each summer. I always try to spray some WD-40 in them after each time I run the boat, but the heat just burns out everything you put in there. I've even packed a high temp grease in there, and eventually the spring breaks.

We've even tried this on the older CMI style switchable mufflers, and they too fail. The air cylinders on each muffler can't stand those temps, and after some time of hard WOT running the heat destroys them.

So, I would have to say that Fred is 100% correct, he just did'nt explain it the way I did. I was asking to see if there is anything new on the market, that possibly I did'nt hear about yet.

I supposed that if I drilled a little 1/8th" hole at the beginning of the stinger, so that it would spray a little water in the muffler, it would probally cool it enough not to burn up the cylinders. But, my whole purpose of extending the stingers was to get 100% of the water away from the opening of the tail.

Fred, thanks for all your help. I'll be in touch with you soon. And, as usual you were "right again"
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Last edited by 10x; 01-05-2006 at 12:46 AM.
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Old 01-05-2006, 08:55 AM
  #25
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Default Re: Dry Exhaust Vs. Wet

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Originally Posted by drypipetiger
..When I pass you Gl remember, I'm passing you ...
Talk's cheap big boy...

Don't forget to get some drives and props on that rocketship of yours, you know... before passing me and all...
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Old 01-05-2006, 09:02 AM
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Default Re: Dry Exhaust Vs. Wet

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Originally Posted by GLH
Talk's cheap big boy...

Don't forget to get some drives and props on that rocketship of yours, you know... before passing me and all...
About what date were those pics taken at Peru Dock?
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Old 01-05-2006, 09:48 AM
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Default Re: Dry Exhaust Vs. Wet

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About what date were those pics taken at Peru Dock?
Back when your boat ran... along time ago in a galaxy far far away, when you were much richer... 05/06/05
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Old 01-05-2006, 07:17 PM
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Default Re: Dry Exhaust Vs. Wet

My neighbors Love my dry pipes
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Old 01-05-2006, 11:35 PM
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Default Re: Dry Exhaust Vs. Wet

My old Scarab had manually switchable clamp-on mufflers, I think the manufacturer was 'Shotgun'. The exhaust system was a dry Patterson system and the mufflers lived fine; of course the motors only made about 425 or so hp. In addition to the transom dumps there were small 'pissholes' in the ends of the tailpipes.
jeff
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Old 01-06-2006, 08:27 PM
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Default Re: Dry Exhaust Vs. Wet

So, it seems that even if I run it dry all the way like on drypipetiger's boat, it still may have some water coming though the end unless welded up which is not advisable, and with no water, even the clamp on GGB Extrems may get hot and turn blue? Yes?

How much if any spray would there be with the small amount of water passing through? Would it achieve my goal? I would only clamp on the mufflers when required or in the rare event I had some whiners aboard.
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