I know this is stepping it up a bit. But if your buying a new boat, you might want to work on your dealer a bit about the 700SCI. Merc is really trying to move these and is make some very attractive pricing.

I heard they are selling them for the same price as the 600SCI's. Is that true?

I don't know the priceing on 600's but I was shocked at how CHEAP the 700 and sixes were.

Can you share the pricing without me having to call, or just pm me, thanks Jeff

Thanks for the input. I rolled with the 600sci. I want the extra couple of mph and work is too busy/don't have the time to work the bugs out of an aftermarket setup anytime soon.

Congrats. I think you will like them.

37 OL on a lake ( no wave jumping ) blowing Bravos like a cheap hooker. Also, same thing with the 500EFI,s. I was told that the Vortechs are better due to a more gradual power curve. Either way, you have to beef up the drives somehow.

Ft. Lauderd, FL. Atlantic Ocean. Running from flat to 6' and nasty. I've run the boat hard in all conditions and don't even have dirty oil in the lowers. I think Mr. OL needs a throttle lesson if he blowing units on a lake

Broke Beak ---- I was thinking the same thing...... I change drive fluid w/ each oil change ---- No problems on my 525 boat. My 600 boat only has 6 hrs. run-time. But, I'm expecting the same thing.

PM ---- Does Mr. OL maintain/replace his internal drive gears etc... at the suggested intervals (every 75 hrs., depending on props and how hard you run the boat)?

Joe

With bravo's, a Merc. friend once told me, since they aren't dry-sump, you shouldn't run at high RPM's for more than a few minutes without letting off for a quick second and then getting back on the sticks.

Reason: fluid gets pulled back from the G-force and doesn't circulate --- hence, causing no lubrication.

Don't know if it's actually true, but ask anyone who has ridden w/ me across Biscayne Bay etc..... I always back off for 1-2 seconds every so often --- no drive issues. Oh yeah, and I do the maintance.

Joe