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Re-rig/ Conversion pics from Pulse Drive to Bravo

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Old 03-05-2008, 04:11 PM
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The owner supplied a pair of XR uppers, so the 2" shortie is all that will fit. You have to use the IMCO upper in order to use the 3" shortie. I have actually made a 3" shortie work on an XR before. It took a lot of cutting and making a few plates to close up the holes. I don't really want to do it again as it was not easy or quick to do.
Thanks for the reply, Eddie.
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Old 03-05-2008, 10:03 PM
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Pantera28-650HP So when patching you dont rebuild the whole transom? I thought you had to. I might be going down that road and was really concerned.

Great job.
Sorry to get off topic for a second... but, can I assume that your problem is still unresolved? What are you planning?
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Old 03-06-2008, 12:06 AM
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if you haven't ordered the 2'' shortie they make 3'' which might work better with a B1 prop. higher you go less bow lift. my baja had to much bow lift went with a 2'' shortie its great.
I have the opposite problem. Inner strakes run all the way back to the transom. Too much stern lift for a surface drive setup on an Envision hull. I will end up 1/2" below spec on a hull that really needs bow lift, so I'm not concerned with being a little deep.

Yes, I will miss the nice rooster tail, along with a few other features. The overall performance enhancements of the bravo's should make for a better boating experience.

Let the outdrive carnage begin!
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Old 03-07-2008, 11:54 AM
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Let the outdrive carnage begin!
That's a big 10-4!!!

Pantera28
The patch panel that you see was only put in place to cover the existing hole so we could lay glass on the outside of the boat to fill in the hole. Once the glass is built up on the outside, it is faired in with the rest of the transom and gelcoated. On the inside, we removed the inner layer of glass and all but the outer layer of plywood across the entire transom. We then glass in more plywood and fiberglass to build the transom back up to just over 2" thick. You don't want to remove all of the wood or disturb the outer layer of fiberglass. You would never be able to blend in the glass if you cut out the entire transom. The outer layer of glass should always stay intact. You remove as much of the inside glass and wood as possible and build it back up. The picture shows just the first step. I didn't take any pictures of the rest of the wood and glass until it was painted. I just got into it and forgot. I really wish I would have since it would have been easier to describe with more pics.
Thanks, Eddie.
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Old 03-07-2008, 12:01 PM
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. . . . . fibeerglass. . .
hehe . . . . . . never heard that term.



That is going to be a bomber transom layed up like that. looks great an keep the pics coming
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Old 03-09-2008, 12:09 AM
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That is going to be a bomber transom layed up like that. looks great an keep the pics coming
I definetely think the transom will outlive us all. It is very strong. It needs to be with all that Young Performance power in it.
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Old 03-10-2008, 10:38 AM
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Frequency-
Looks great. Where are you going to start for props?
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Old 03-11-2008, 12:37 AM
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I will probably start with some B1 32's. That should give me an idea of what it will want. Plus, I have a set sitting here.
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Old 03-11-2008, 09:51 AM
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I will probably start with some B1 32's. That should give me an idea of what it will want. Plus, I have a set sitting here.
Hi twanger - I was going to say a set of 30's, but who am I to argue?
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Old 03-11-2008, 10:17 AM
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Nice. Thanks for the pics. Cool project. I've seen this boat on Clinton Lake. Are you going to relocate the sea strainers or can you access the tops from under the back seat?
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