clear anodizing on polished aluminum
#3
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From: Riverview, Michigan
#5
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From: Toledo Oh
#7
#8
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From: Lafayette,La
sling .it was powdercoated , all of my Keith Eickert brackets , crossover etc , the powdercoat is bubbling up where the bolt/washer goes through the brackets .
sad part is the engine is sitting on a frame i built with the trans and tailstock ready to drop in . engine has not even been used and the powder coat is doing this.
i know the paint sticks i use to mix paint are anodized and i have used the same measuring sticks for years.. and the clear anodize is still intact.
sad part is the engine is sitting on a frame i built with the trans and tailstock ready to drop in . engine has not even been used and the powder coat is doing this.
i know the paint sticks i use to mix paint are anodized and i have used the same measuring sticks for years.. and the clear anodize is still intact.
#10
Use "Tef-Gel" at all stainless/aluminum interfaces. It looks like the same stuff that you put on pipe threads, but it's not. Aluminum and stainless are at opposite ends of the Galvanic scale and react badly to the presence of water, especially if there is any salt in it.
I had the wheels on my car polished and powdercoated 16 years ago, and they still look great (but it is a garage queen with only 21k miles). On the other hand, I had some polished diamond plate powdercoated clear and it did kill the lustre somewhat...
Raw polished metal surfaces are a pain in the a$$ anyway. Buff it up real good and go with a colored candy powder coat (or anodizing if it's aluminum).
I had the wheels on my car polished and powdercoated 16 years ago, and they still look great (but it is a garage queen with only 21k miles). On the other hand, I had some polished diamond plate powdercoated clear and it did kill the lustre somewhat...
Raw polished metal surfaces are a pain in the a$$ anyway. Buff it up real good and go with a colored candy powder coat (or anodizing if it's aluminum).
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