Now if only a dog would piss on him, we would be in good shape...:p

CMI flow tested mine,4cfm they said was good, I guess this will also ck for leaks

I'll delete all the posts as not to dilute the topic starters request, I apologize for stooping down to minor league's and arguing, I have 38 years doing this crap, you might be surprised at what I know, i've seen it all, sorry to derail a topic...

good day

As I stated many many times now... Mr_V used to do it your way and he was not finding any leaks...he called me up to give me the good news that his 1998 CMI's still didn't have any leaks...... I told him what to do and he called me back and told me he found some small leaks as soon as he put a little heat to it.... PS, we're not talking cherry red as you have suggested....just a little heat to expand the metal....

You have your way, I have mine, it's what makes the world go around.... Next time I test a set I will use your method again and see how it goes, even though I abandoned it a number of years back... How's that, fair?


Have a good day...

I never said anywhere the words *cherry red*, you made that up, and made up other statements you think I said, to embellish your position..

if you are ASE Certified, I was involved as an instructor/technician that wrote the test questions for some of those initial exams for turbochargers and superchargers. Engine and OE component manufacturer's sent me there because of my knowledge. They only take the best in their field. Don't question my integrity, my experience, my reputation, call me retarded, and assume I need/do drugs because you don't agree with me or documented industry accepted facts. That IS slander. I'm not an idiot...

furthermore, i'm not editing any more, nor do I owe you an apology. I don't do drugs, and i'm not retarded, there is no slander to YOU whatsoever, I stand hard by my opinions. I'm done, you don't make demands of what I do, or what I say, or what I post, or what I should edit to your liking, in any shape or form... period.

you can have the last word, do as you see fit, i'm done.

respectfully.. JH

You did, you deleted the post Mr. Bush....

To support your method of using air, use 60 lbs of regulated air as you suggested, heat the critical areas (this expands the metal and also crushes salt build up if it's sealing the crack) , then use soapy water or anything that bubbles to test for leaks if you're fixated on using air....

I made a few points which when submersing in water doesn't allow you to; 1. Mark where the leak is when it's under water so it can be fixed, 2. let you "see" where the leak is coming from unless it's in plain sight because it's under water. I don't know, maybe you get int the tank with scuba gear., 3. Allow you to apply some heat to critical areas that are prone to leaks; eg. flange and collector areas. (super under water blow torch).



I've found that method to be unreliable. First you can't see inside the tubes if the leak isn't in plain sight and if it needs to be fixed you can't mark it. Second, if the leak is very small or if it doesn't leak unless it is hot you wont be able see it that way. I've had headers that didn't leak, then you put some heat too it and it starts to sizzle and seep out.

Everyone has their own method though...

Oh yeah... ASE does not mean anything in the marine world...

And since it's your specialty, diesel engines and exhaust sytems are also a different world. ;)

Which is what I was trying to do.... I'll just keep to myself in the future and not offer up information that might help someone. I'm done with this place.

Lowblue, I appologize for this getting out of hand and if you need anything don't hesitate to ask.

Later folks

What a funny thread! :D