![]() |
Advice from Engine Builders, Please
I found a boat that has twin 525 with blowers, and driven by TRS drives. The concern that I have is that the boat has not been run since 04. It was winterized and shrink wrapped and left forgotten. What kind of issues can I expect? Will these run if I give it power and gas? FYI. Motors and about 150 hours drives and transmissions unknown but estimated 300. Over all this boat has been well cared for, but for family reasons not touched since 04.
|
Originally Posted by Ona-Mission
(Post 2560600)
I found a boat that has twin 525 with blowers, and driven by TRS drives. The concern that I have is that the boat has not been run since 04. It was winterized and shrink wrapped and left forgotten. What kind of issues can I expect? Will these run if I give it power and gas? FYI. Motors and about 150 hours drives and transmissions unknown but estimated 300. Over all this boat has been well cared for, but for family reasons not touched since 04.
|
Originally Posted by JCPERF
(Post 2560620)
Which 525s?At least put fresh gas in it and spark plugs.
|
What kind of boat? With a heavy boat you might be more concerned about the drives, TRS I believe are hard to find parts for, and you can only rebuild them, not get new ones.
|
Originally Posted by Dirty Bird
(Post 2560639)
What kind of boat? With a heavy boat you might be more concerned about the drives, TRS I believe are hard to find parts for, and you can only rebuild them, not get new ones.
|
Originally Posted by Ona-Mission
(Post 2560630)
should i be concerned about any internal problems? 525 merks
|
Are they 525EFI's with blowers or are the 525SC's??? Either way I would be more concerned about the fuel in the tanks than the trannys and drives. People don't give the trs drives the respect they have earned.
|
Originally Posted by JCPERF
(Post 2560664)
Mercury had 2 different 525s.One was a supercharged 454 from around the late 80s to 90s
|
Originally Posted by Westcoast
(Post 2560666)
Are they 525EFI's with blowers or are the 525SC's??? Either way I would be more concerned about the fuel in the tanks than the trannys and drives. People don't give the trs drives the respect they have earned.
|
That package was very popular in it's day and should have no issues once you get it ready to run.
Change ALL fluids and filters in the engine AND tranny/drives then make sure you have fresh gas too. (probably need batteries also). Things should fire up and run after that. |
I would wonder after sitting that long, If the engine was fogged with oil the last time it was run. Might not be a bad Idea to prelube the engine before firing it up again for the first time,and maybe even spray some penetrating oil in each cylinder and let it sit for a day or so before starting.
|
First off, you should visit the Apache section. One of us probably knows the boat and can tell you if it's ever been dunked or broken. Second, you need to have the boat professionally surveyed. Unless you don't mind a $10,000-plus surprise, you need a pro to do a thorough checkout. If you're financing it, you'll most likely be asked for it anyway. If you've yet to get insurance, it will most likely be a requirement.
Is the owner doing the re-commissioning or are you? 4 years of sitting is a stretch and not knowing exactly how it was laid up brings everything into question. It would need all fluids and filters as well as a thorough look-thru. The fuel in the tank is probably bad. I'd also be concerned about a motor that's had the valves sitting open in one spot for 4 years, not to mention the toll it takes on valve springs. You can do a startup but they'd have to be immediately replaced before running if it were me. A leakdown test on the motors is a must. Nothing wrong with TRS drives- there are still parts available as well as used drives. |
sounds like the old snake dance boat.
|
Depends on the care taken putting it away,,,, also as stated above,,,, valve springs in one spot all these years may have taken a toll,,,,, alothough,,,, that motor didnt have an overly aggressive cam, but in the interest of reliability is worth looking at
|
Originally Posted by offshoredrillin
(Post 2560936)
sounds like the old snake dance boat.
|
Put some fresh gas in it and run it till it breaks. Depending on the humidity levels in the area, etc. you will have a little surface rust in areas that you don't want it. Penetrating oil, etc. in the cyliders is a good idea.
I wonder about the blowers, if they are coroded inside or not. If you are anal about it, then you will need to tear eerything down, or if you are the gambling type, just put some fresh gas and fluids in it and run it like you stole it. If it has been sitting that long, then you probably are anyway. Good luck. Send us some pics. You know we want to see what you are talking about. |
Fresh Gas,pre Lube, Valve Springs As Soon As Possible!!!!!
|
Originally Posted by obnoxus
(Post 2560990)
Depends on the care taken putting it away,,,, also as stated above,,,, valve springs in one spot all these years may have taken a toll,,,,, alothough,,,, that motor didnt have an overly aggressive cam, but in the interest of reliability is worth looking at
|
Originally Posted by Ona-Mission
(Post 2570241)
Is the problem with valve springs the rebound on the spring is going to be weak or does the spring stand a chance of breaking?
They rust sometimes and won't seal again. Have you run the engines yet? what do they sound like? Start them and see what happens. If you were going to take them apart anyway, then what could it hurt? |
I have not run them. Having a survey done friday this week and will be doing a leakdown test also. I plan to tear both completely appart during the winter, just trying to figure my odds in making it through a summer. Short summers here in Michigan are too valuable to loose any boating season.
|
Originally Posted by jeff1000man
(Post 2561008)
Put some fresh gas in it and run it till it breaks. Depending on the humidity levels in the area, etc. you will have a little surface rust in areas that you don't want it. Penetrating oil, etc. in the cyliders is a good idea.
I wonder about the blowers, if they are coroded inside or not. If you are anal about it, then you will need to tear eerything down, or if you are the gambling type, just put some fresh gas and fluids in it and run it like you stole it. If it has been sitting that long, then you probably are anyway. Good luck. Send us some pics. You know we want to see what you are talking about. |
Originally Posted by Ona-Mission
(Post 2570437)
I''l post some pics after we close on it. So far it looks like I'm getting a deal that I don't want to advertize. Know what I mean?
As far as losing a summer. If you take them down now, your will probably miss a summer anyway. Do the leakdown test after you run them, that way it gives the surface rust on the seats and valves a chance to wear off and allow the valves to seat again. Otherwise you will get some bad numbers. Good luck. Just want to let you know were all counting on you. (what movie was that last line from)? |
If you are going to use the boat before doing the motors take a good tow rope and a cell phone with you . Just my 2 cents! best of luck Jeff :cool-smiley-026:
|
All This input is so valuable. Thanks to everyone. Please keep the advice comin. It looks like all my worries are in the top 1/2. Guess I have to just plan on getting the heads worked over
|
Originally Posted by Jeff P31
(Post 2570507)
If you are going to use the boat before doing the motors take a good tow rope and a cell phone with you . Just my 2 cents! best of luck Jeff :cool-smiley-026:
|
If you take the heads off that will tell the whole story. It will be a lot cheaper to do this than if you break a motor or two. best of luck , Jeff :cool-smiley-026:
|
As said above, change the oil and filters....then remove the ignition distributor and turn the oil pump with a drill untill the galleys are full and there is oil pressure....keep track of where the rotor and distributor were set before they were removed....or you will have to find TDC before the engine will start....Then with the plugs out, gently turn the engine over with a breaker bar...checking for stuck rings or anything else that may be dragging....fresh gas,hot batteries and it should be good to go....LOL
|
I would spray down the cylinders with penitrating oil, new fuel and all fluids and be good to go. The seals are probably all dry by now. If you don't prelube, I think you run the risk of trashing some seals or bearings. Don't forget some new impellers too.
|
| All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:29 AM. |
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.