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Yet another reason to change your water pump!!!

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Old 05-04-2009, 07:37 AM
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Hold the pump up to the engine near where it will mount and see which direction it turns. Then you know which way to put the impeller. Then look at the arrows on the back of the housing and put the hoses on according to the rh or lh rotation.

If you can, take the fitting off the intake side of the oil cooler. The pieces that get caught in there may not come out with backflushing.
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Old 05-06-2009, 08:09 PM
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Ok I will definitely flush the system again from the oil cooler lines also.

Regards to the water pump, is there anything you need to do for first startup like Priming or something... How to?

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Old 05-06-2009, 08:17 PM
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If you have the pump apart put grease on the impeller blades. If not, the best thing to do is remove the pump intake hose from the transom and shove a garden hose in the intake hose to run it. This is priming at its best. But in reality you should be able to put the muffs on and run it without all that.
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Old 05-06-2009, 08:26 PM
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When you ran it on the hose, water was coming out of the exhaust because the water pressure of the hose was compensating for not having a pump.
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Old 05-06-2009, 08:29 PM
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That pump was run for awhile with no water. It even looks like it was started and cooled down and started again with no water several times. I use a little vaseline when installing a new impeller. No priming is needed when you stick the boat in the water and lower the foot water will be at the pump before you hit the switch. If you do not believe me pull off the supply hose while your boat is in the water and watch your boat sink.
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Old 05-06-2009, 09:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PURPLE HORNET View Post
That pump was run for awhile with no water. It even looks like it was started and cooled down and started again with no water several times. I use a little vaseline when installing a new impeller. No priming is needed when you stick the boat in the water and lower the foot water will be at the pump before you hit the switch. If you do not believe me pull off the supply hose while your boat is in the water and watch your boat sink.
I definitely want to run the motor before it goes to the lake, I still have to change drive and engine oil.. So I want to warm them up first. I believe you for sure about the water filling right up to the pump, it only makes sense that the pump will be even or below sea level once the boat is in the water.

I am not sure what the owner before did, thats why I am replacing all the maintenance stuff. Just did the bellows and gimbal, now the pump, and fluids/filters are next, once the boat is back on the trailer.
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Old 05-06-2009, 10:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PURPLE HORNET View Post
That pump was run for awhile with no water. It even looks like it was started and cooled down and started again with no water several times. I use a little vaseline when installing a new impeller. No priming is needed when you stick the boat in the water and lower the foot water will be at the pump before you hit the switch. If you do not believe me pull off the supply hose while your boat is in the water and watch your boat sink.
DAWN dish soap works wel also for a pre lube.

Remember that if it is on the hose there is water pressure all ready in the system so the pump won't be dry when you fire it.

Hose pressure should usually bypass the impellor and actually make its way to the exhaust before you crank the engine. If it doesn't, bump the starter until it does. Should only take a bump or 2.

If you are really worried, All you need to run on the hose is the housing. You can take the impellor out and use the hose for pressure. Don't rev the engine very much since that is what dries them out and fries the impellor as the hose usually can not keep up with the demand of the impellor.

Good luck
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Old 05-06-2009, 10:15 PM
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Originally Posted by jeff1000man View Post
DAWN dish soap works wel also for a pre lube.

Remember that if it is on the hose there is water pressure all ready in the system so the pump won't be dry when you fire it.

Hose pressure should usually bypass the impellor and actually make its way to the exhaust before you crank the engine. If it doesn't, bump the starter until it does. Should only take a bump or 2.

If you are really worried, All you need to run on the hose is the housing. You can take the impellor out and use the hose for pressure. Don't rev the engine very much since that is what dries them out and fries the impellor as the hose usually can not keep up with the demand of the impellor.

Good luck
Excellent... No there will be no revving. Just want to warm it up a bit to change the fluids, so I am not changing molasses.

I will do that, I have the dual muffs that supply water to both sides of the pickup, so I will just wait for water to start coming out of the exhaust, and bump the key if necessary.
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Old 05-06-2009, 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by SmurfOnAGixxer View Post
Excellent... No there will be no revving. Just want to warm it up a bit to change the fluids, so I am not changing molasses.

I will do that, I have the dual muffs that supply water to both sides of the pickup, so I will just wait for water to start coming out of the exhaust, and bump the key if necessary.
The muffs are where "sometimes" comes into play. Do you have fresh water flush hose end on the boat?

It is not necessary, but a great convenience. If water doesn't start instantly with the muffs you might have to crank a second, but they will work just fine. I use them on my Magnum.
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Old 05-06-2009, 10:30 PM
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Originally Posted by jeff1000man View Post
The muffs are where "sometimes" comes into play. Do you have fresh water flush hose end on the boat?

It is not necessary, but a great convenience. If water doesn't start instantly with the muffs you might have to crank a second, but they will work just fine. I use them on my Magnum.
I am not sure if I do or not, as I am not exactly sure what the fresh water flush hose end is.???
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