School of Hard Knocks!
#1
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,087
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From: Lake Dallas, TX
Well I'm certainly learning about my engine, drive, and other stuff regarding boat. Unfortunately I'm learning the hard way. Getting schooled by mechanics who know what they are talking about and others who don't. I think I finally found one who I can trust, is smart, and doesn't make assumptions.
I've heard a knocking in my engine or drive for about 3 weeks, I didn't think it was the drive because I just had it serviced. Been to 3 different mechanics all saying one thing or another. One wanted to pull the engine, cost, $1500 just for labor, another said it was impossible for it to be the drive because it's not operational unless in gear, and the third who will I get my business knew I just don't have the cash to fly around. He stated I could do a lot of the work myself and then bring it to him when I feel overwhelmed or un-confident. Basically he said to pull the drive and start the engine for no more than 90 seconds, if you hear the knock, it's in the engine, if not, it's the drive.
I thought that was cool, he could have charged me $300 bucks to do the same thing. He is the only one who said he wouldn't state what he thought it was without first determining engine or drive. I think I just dropped $325 for a drive service for a leak that wasn't there. $325 for a fuel pump that I installed that wasn't needed based on the first mechanics analysis. I found that my distributor was a wreck, two plugs that were blown apart, and this is a guy with twenty years experience. Being schooled the hard way, I know that's nothing compared to some with much worse horror stories, but I'd rather learn with someone else's money.lol
I've heard a knocking in my engine or drive for about 3 weeks, I didn't think it was the drive because I just had it serviced. Been to 3 different mechanics all saying one thing or another. One wanted to pull the engine, cost, $1500 just for labor, another said it was impossible for it to be the drive because it's not operational unless in gear, and the third who will I get my business knew I just don't have the cash to fly around. He stated I could do a lot of the work myself and then bring it to him when I feel overwhelmed or un-confident. Basically he said to pull the drive and start the engine for no more than 90 seconds, if you hear the knock, it's in the engine, if not, it's the drive.
I thought that was cool, he could have charged me $300 bucks to do the same thing. He is the only one who said he wouldn't state what he thought it was without first determining engine or drive. I think I just dropped $325 for a drive service for a leak that wasn't there. $325 for a fuel pump that I installed that wasn't needed based on the first mechanics analysis. I found that my distributor was a wreck, two plugs that were blown apart, and this is a guy with twenty years experience. Being schooled the hard way, I know that's nothing compared to some with much worse horror stories, but I'd rather learn with someone else's money.lol
#5
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 337
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From: Waterford, MI
I know what you mean.....bought mine last year (had a survey) and since then found the transom to be rotted and the entire bilge rotted out as well. Almost the entire rear 4' is being rebuilt. That's after I had the damage causing the blige rot "repaired" by a shop last winter. Seems they missed quite a bit too. Have mine at a reputable shop now too....costs sure do add up. Good luck with yours!
#6
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From: Lake Dallas, TX
I pulled the drive and the knock was still there. I brought it over to the mechanic I trust and he said either a lower rod bearing or the main bearing. He told me for a case of beer I could use the shops engine puller and he showed me all the disconnects for the engine. He just got himself an additional two cases.
I'll start the disconnect process tomorrow and have it ready, got to get my friend and his truck, then transport it to my house. How I'm going to get the engine out of the truck and on my engine stand I don't quite know yet.
I have a friend who teaches for a college in engine repair, so he's gonna come over help me strip it down and diagnose it. Off to the machine shop for a clean up and then I'll re-assemble. So I'm hoping since I'm doing everything myself with the exception of clean up, I'll keep the bill relatively low.
I'm fortunate, my bilge is huge with seats removed, I can lay down and do all the work. Too bad my hull doesn't really support an upgrade in HP, this would be a good time to do it, but I don't want to put in a whole lot of money and not get a good return.
thanx for the support.
I'll start the disconnect process tomorrow and have it ready, got to get my friend and his truck, then transport it to my house. How I'm going to get the engine out of the truck and on my engine stand I don't quite know yet.
I have a friend who teaches for a college in engine repair, so he's gonna come over help me strip it down and diagnose it. Off to the machine shop for a clean up and then I'll re-assemble. So I'm hoping since I'm doing everything myself with the exception of clean up, I'll keep the bill relatively low.
I'm fortunate, my bilge is huge with seats removed, I can lay down and do all the work. Too bad my hull doesn't really support an upgrade in HP, this would be a good time to do it, but I don't want to put in a whole lot of money and not get a good return.
thanx for the support.
#7
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Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 222
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From: Newbury Park Ca
Dude ! Too many cooks stirring the pot , pick one guy you trust and let him do all the work , in the long run you'll be better off in the event of any problems , and believe me , they do pop up ! remember what BOAT stands for : break out another thousand !
#8
#9
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From: Lake Dallas, TX
The mechanic I trust doesn't do rebuilds, and the guy he recommended has a 1 month backlog. I have another friend with a flatbed trailer, we are gonna pull it, lower it on the trailer, put it on the stand, build a support out of 2x4s, strap it down and then just drive it to my house which as about 2miles away. Wheel it off to my garage.
I found a reputable engine place, 2 day turn around for a short block bearing rebuild for about $800.00 So I'm hoping to have it back in the boat by Monday. Just hope he doesn't find anything else.t
I found a reputable engine place, 2 day turn around for a short block bearing rebuild for about $800.00 So I'm hoping to have it back in the boat by Monday. Just hope he doesn't find anything else.t
#10
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 6,477
Likes: 358
From: Mansfield, TX
Man, I would of done a leak down test and or compression test with the motors still in the boat. If you don't your just making guesses. Also, "start the engine with the outdrive off for no more than 90 seconds".......I hope you had the water running or you'll now need to inspect your impeller and hope you don't have to chase down any missing rubber pieces.
A good rebuild starts around $3,500..............
A good rebuild starts around $3,500..............
Last edited by TexomaPowerboater; 06-09-2009 at 02:32 PM.



