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ignition timing with crane?

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Old 06-08-2009, 12:50 PM
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Default ignition timing with crane?

I recieved my replacement crane (hi6-m) box over the winter. I've installed it as per spec. Had the rotor drilled by my machine shop for accuracy. My ?? is with the timing using the #6 pos for curve the motor would start to ping at 4000 rpm at 26 deg. we dialed it back to 15 deg total at 3000 rpm and she ran fine. Are we to figure in the 35 deg rotor change?? ( Using the stock distributor)
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Old 06-08-2009, 02:13 PM
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Are you saying that the rotor has a 35 deg advance built into the rotor?????

Lets get simple here: You want no more than 35 degrees TOTAL advance. Keep the light on the timing tab and rev it past 4000 and make sure it doesnt go past 35. I think the factory setting on my stock HP500's is only 32 degrees total.
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Old 06-08-2009, 05:04 PM
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[QUOTE=niceguy;2883345]Are you saying that the rotor has a 35 deg advance built into the rotor?????

The box is designed for magnetic pick up first but can be made to use the hall effect distributor that is factory by removing the metal base off the rotor and redrilling the four holes 35 deg from original. I listed a pdf if i'm not explaining myself well showing this.
http://69.20.53.62/pdf/90006462b.pdf

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Old 06-08-2009, 07:15 PM
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The diagram explains this well, but looking back you did too. I would say this:

Hookup the timing light, and shoot the timing tab.... manually bring the motor up to say 4k and see what the tab reads. Total timing shouldn't be more than say 36 degrees. I would only go to 34, but others might go higher.

Your timing curves might be different throughout the rpm range (I would think total would be in by 4k though) depending on how it is setup, but total timing is what I would be most concerned with at this moment, because total timing is what the motor sees at WOT.

Maybe we can get Eddie or Dean in here to shed more light and some specifics. My advice is for total timing only.
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Old 06-10-2009, 08:41 AM
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The diagram explains this well, but looking back you did too. I would say this: (Thanks but not entirely true)

I did forget to mention that were using a snap-on timing light which has a dial on it. We would bring the boat up on plane. Run the throtle up over 3000 rpm then using the light we turn the dial till it brings the light to 0 deg. then read the dial to see what the timing is set at.

Oh and also forgot to mention that were getting 3 more mph over last year at a total of 74. For which I'm quite happy for this old heavy boat.

Last edited by code blue; 06-10-2009 at 08:48 AM.
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Old 06-11-2009, 09:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by code blue View Post
I recieved my replacement crane (hi6-m) box over the winter. I've installed it as per spec. Had the rotor drilled by my machine shop for accuracy. My ?? is with the timing using the #6 pos for curve the motor would start to ping at 4000 rpm at 26 deg. we dialed it back to 15 deg total at 3000 rpm and she ran fine. Are we to figure in the 35 deg rotor change?? ( Using the stock distributor)
Hope you figured this out but just in case:

I have the same ignitions using the #6 timing curve. The total advance for #6 is 20 deg all in by 2500 rpm.

You install the distributor and set the timing as you would with the stock ignition. The 35 deg rotor phasing should not be taken into account when setting the timing.

You need to recheck your settings and math as 16 deg total advance is too low. Since the motor is running well with no pinging it may just be a math error. You sure you are on #6 and not #7 (fixed timing)? Is the timing advancing as you go up through 2500 rpm???
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Old 06-16-2009, 08:53 AM
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Thanks Thunderstruck. I'll double check it next time out but I'm pretty sure it was on six and was advancing. Now if the rain will only stop (more rain in June then any year here since they been keeping records) My thinking is the fuel being from prier season even with the sta-bil may have lost octane. I've burned most of it up so this weekend will all be fresh fuel #93 octane.
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