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Old 10-15-2009, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by paulb32 View Post
Plus 1 more step for all. Drain the antifreez mix too after done. Truth is that short run time does not always allow antifreeze and any left over water in the block to mix properly. I'm anal and even drain my intake at the power steering cooler.
Leave the anti freeze in the engine - it has anti corrosive properties.....
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Old 10-15-2009, 08:52 PM
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I've read on one of the RV antifreeze websites a couple yrs ago that the stuff does turn to slush, but it does not expand.
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Old 11-06-2009, 02:59 PM
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Quick question regarding draining the block/manifolds/oil cooler:

I read all replies to this thread and it seems that even the guys who suck the AF up through the drive with muffs, hose and bucket, drain the block before doing so. Is that absolutely necessary?

The reason I ask is because, before running the AF thru you should get the engine up to operating temp, correct. So if you get the motor hot on the hose, then take the time to drain everything, put the plugs and hoses back on, and rig up your AF plumbing system, by that time the motor would be cold again.

If you didn't drain it first, wouldn't all the water be blown out by the time all the AF went thru anyways??

Thanks.
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Old 11-07-2009, 09:59 AM
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Shameles bump......
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Old 11-07-2009, 07:45 PM
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Why are you all leaving out the other most important part of winterizing? You must change the oil and filter as part of your winterization. Why? Because using an internal combustion engine the becomes contaminated with hydrocarbons and it turns to an acid. This oil will acid etch your engines internal bearings causing premature engine failure. One hour or fifty, it gets changed at the winterization.

Also if you are using E-10 fuel it can not be properly stabilized. Pump the tank dry. I have been using this method since we switch here with all my customers and have had no issues. I have seen many others have problems in the spring even using a so called E-10 fuel stabilizer.
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Old 11-07-2009, 09:35 PM
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Why are you all leaving out the other most important part of winterizing? You must change the oil and filter as part of your winterization. Why? Because using an internal combustion engine the becomes contaminated with hydrocarbons and it turns to an acid. This oil will acid etch your engines internal bearings causing premature engine failure. One hour or fifty, it gets changed at the winterization.

Also if you are using E-10 fuel it can not be properly stabilized. Pump the tank dry. I have been using this method since we switch here with all my customers and have had no issues. I have seen many others have problems in the spring even using a so called E-10 fuel stabilizer.
I coudn't believe no body had mentioned that (oil). I always change my water seperating filter as well and then after I run the first full tank of fuel through it in the spring I change it again to make sure there isn't any moisture.

The other biggie is I fully detail the boat so It is put away clean. Usually I will wash it a time or two throughout the winter when we get some nice days.
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Old 11-08-2009, 10:53 AM
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Fellas, I think oil change and detail are kind of a given, but thanks for stating the obvious. The thread was started to give a little insight/tips on freeze protection.
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Old 11-08-2009, 05:03 PM
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I don't detail anything in the fall. It'll need to be done in the spring and I'll be enthused about doing it. I run the pink stuff through the muffs and shut her off when pink comes out. I check my engine antifreeze and make sure it is good to -25f. I run stabil through while winterizing. I change the oil at the end of the last outing. Over the winter I suck the remaining fuel out to use in the cars. I leave the fuel/water seperators on and after the first startup of the next season change them. I remove the drives and grease the ujoints and drain/refill the lube. Fogging kills spark plugs so I discontinued that. If I get a chance over the winter I will turn the engines over to get the camshaft at a different spot. Thats all you need to do.
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