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Engine Refresh / Rebuild Costs

Old 11-20-2009, 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Young Performance
Tubzz,
You should be able to do just the top end for 5K.

On the entire engine, I am higher than Ragged edge's price, but I also replace a ton more parts. On a typical refresh, the only parts I reuse (beside the accessories) are the bare block, bare heads, crankshaft, and rod cores. Everything else goes in the garbage. I replace the following: rings, bearings, oil pump and drive rod, connecting rod bolts, pistons, timing set, cam and lifters, pushrods, valves, springs, retainers, locks, seals, gaskets, etc. The parts that I use are of a much higher quality than the stock components. (Clevite bearings, Total Seal rings, JE pistons, Melling oil pump, Fel- Pro gaskets, Manley valves, etc). As for machine work, I align hone the mains, bore and hone cylinders, deck block and heads, valve job, balance rotating assembly, resize rods with new bolts, polish and magnaflux crank, etc.
Basically, you end up with a new engine that is better than it was when it was new. It has much better parts and is hand assembled by one person......ME. It also comes with a warranty. Now the bad part......it runs between 9-11K depending on the engine. Give me a call if I can help. Thanks.
Eddie
Eddie,
What Hp will that make after you are done? 500+
thanks,
Dean
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Old 11-20-2009, 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Dean Ferry
Eddie,
What Hp will that make after you are done? 500+
thanks,
Dean
It certainly could. That is the time to make some upgrades. I am replacing the cam anyway, so one that is a little larger doesn't cost any more money. The heads will be apart, so a little port work would be easy to do. We are decking the block already, so it is real easy to cut a little more and bump the compression. Same with the heads. The list goes on. And none of it really costs much, if any, more money. Actually, because of that, most of the rebuilds I do end up with more power because it is cheap to do at that point. When do you want to start on yours
Eddie
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Old 11-20-2009, 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Panther
Speaking of Lifters, what do you recommend these days for solid rollers?
You just can't go wrong with Morels. Crower also makes a really nice piece. I really don't do many solids anymore. With all of the advancements in hyd. roller stuff, there is seldomly a need for a solid.
Eddie
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Old 11-20-2009, 04:11 PM
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Thanks!

I've heard of guys running tight-lash solids on a hyd. roller profiles and picking up a little more up top.

Does anyone ever run hyd. on a solid roller profile?
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Old 11-20-2009, 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Panther
Thanks!
Does anyone ever run hyd. on a solid roller profile?
Sure. I just had someone send me their build sheets for some engines they had built recently. They were built by a well known builder and aren't what they are suppose to be. He wants me upgrade them, so I had him send me the info on the engines. They have a solid roller cam with hyd. roller lifters. Not sure how well it works, but that's what it is.
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