What is the statis on your project?

Sorry about taking over your thread, but you have helped me with a lot of questions

Thank you!

No issues with overheating, because the pressure was within the design limits at let's say 20psi at 4,000rpm's, but as soon as the power increases over 4,200 the buzzer's went off because the engine went into guardian mode. I suppose there would have been overheating problems if the warning did not occur, but keep in mind that my engines are stock.

You are welcome,

The motor should be running on the dyno sometime late monday. Dustin had to custom fabricate some parts.

Chris

Dustin has the ability to change this calibration in the PCM... but it is probably not a good idea as opposed to fixing the water flow/pressure issues.

Chris

Minimum 28psi @ 4800rpm, ideally like to see 32-35 @ 5200+.

Yes, same props will lessen load on the NXT and in the end, will be the quickest and fastest.

Agreed

Are you saying the boat will excelerate quicker and have more
MPH with stock 6 blade harrings?

Do I have to do a pulley change and what is retail on the stage ? Kits
how much HP & torque will I have?

On the 700sci Stages I & II:

PCM re-program
Water re-route

No pulley change on Stage I - 780 hp
Pulley change on Stage II - 830 hp

You will have to contact Dustin directly for pricing.

Chris

What about other people with the same boat? There are a fair number of fountains (38's, 42's) with 700's......... Fountain didn't help at all or get their chit together?

U think I need the pully

Who doesn't want more horsepower?
This is an easy addition.

With your #6 drives... I would think this would be a no-brainer.

Chris

Well! I was hoping u say that
Thanks for all the help
I can't think of anything else I need 2ask

How much is to much water pressure

What is the difference in hp gain between the PCM and pulley upgrade vs the PCM, pulley and cam upgrade?

We should know that here shortly.

Chris

Merc says that over 50 psi at WOT is too much water pressure.

Chris

Does your BoAt havE 1075?

Every boat is different. The Fountain factory was very helpful even out of warranty.

It is a lot eaiser to go with more boost than changing the cam, but I will probably do cams, pushrods, lifters, springs and head gaskets at 250.

Sorry to hear about your water problems. Our 38/700 has never had any water pressure issues, have owned it 3 years. Their are also 2 other 42/700 boats that were bought last spring in our area that dont have them either. Glad you got it worked out.

I have 700's....the boat in my avatar,Saratoga Stampede, has 1075's (for now)

Cool....sounds like a more reliable upgrade than just adding boost....are you going to Dyno?

50psi IMO

ARE WE TALKING ABOUT A 600 OR 700 MOTOR?

This would be the 600, although were working on a camshaft change for the 700 too :)

we're pushing the limits of the bottom end?

Everything is forged, they have blower pistons and rings gapped for boost.

I mean't the block...

Made 1000hp on those blocks for years with zero issues. Now if you had a big roots on there and tried to make 1000hp, thats different. Zero issues with the block.

good

Well I guess we have got all the anwsers we needed from this excellent thread

Well what is up with your Motor, what kind of power are you making

We are all waiting,

Show us those dino sheets

Some of the fabrication of parts for mounting the 4.0 took longer than anticipated at the Whipple compound.

The engine is back together and on the dyno.
They are in the process of re-programming the PCM for the new cam, and we should have the numbers soon.

Chris

Are you using a sportmaster 2" shorty with your scx?

Nordic heats do not need shortys. The hot rod bunch around here us standard or a standard with a spacer.
Allen

Standard length Imco SC lower.

I have done a LOT of testing, and my boat likes either no spacer, with a Hydromotive P5x, or a 1/2 inch spacer with a Merc Lab prop.
Below about 80 mph, the boat likes a 1 inch spacer.
With the old Whipple stage II on my 600sci, my boat did a consistant 92 mph with a best of 93.3 mph.

Chris

Thank you Allen that is one boat I really don't know anything about

My real question is why did you chose not to go with the scx lower?

Did you change the vertical shaft or use the cupler
to connect the standard imco lower

I choose to retain my SC lower at IMCO's recommendation. They recommend using the SC lower on v-bottom boats, or boats that do not run the lower unit in full surfacing mode. With the lowers submerged (mine is 3.5" below the keel), the SC lower is faster than the SCX lower.

I swapped out the vertical shaft in my SC lower to a conversion shaft that IMCO makes for this purpose.

Chris

Performance update:

Dustin is working dilligently on the re-programing of the Smartcraft PCM. Due to its individual cylinder ignition and fuel curve programs... this is quite a time consuming process... especially with a cam that is radically different than the original 600sci or 700sci cams.

As of last nite (9 pm), the motor is making 850 hp at 5900 rpm with 10 lbs of boost.

This is with the new cam, and the 4.0 supercharger.

Timing curves, fuel curves, and boost have not been finalized... Dustin thinks there might be more in there, and will continue to work on it.

After this round of testing, and finalization of the PCM program, Dustin will bolt the 3.3 back on and get it dialed in with the new cam.

Chris