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Nothing to hide - Ilmor opens the door on my 725/Indy buildup

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Old 03-19-2010, 07:09 PM
  #21
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What a boring story so far Chuck!

Let's have some name calling, bullshlt, and squandering like the rest of the builds around this place.

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Old 03-19-2010, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by 26 REDLINE View Post
Spend the extra coin on a good preluber, I had the masterlube, doesn't work all that great in a boat, plus it is built kinda chity. Check out the Canton accusump, by far the best out there...

http://www.accusump.com/

Plus it will go great with the blue engine...SWING

The first picture is of the Masterluber, not that great looking, the second is the Canton...
Does the Accusump change the oil like the Masterlube? The last time I was on their website they didn't mention it...
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Old 03-19-2010, 09:20 PM
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Is this package for the batboat?

That would make more sense...I remember the fourmula getting rebuilt not to long ago.
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Old 03-20-2010, 09:05 AM
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What a boring story so far Chuck!

Let's have some name calling, bullshlt, and squandering like the rest of the builds around this place.

Dave and john were calling each other names during the glassing process, lol
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Old 03-20-2010, 09:06 AM
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Is this package for the batboat?
You get a cookie, grasshopper. I suppose the first couple of photos in post #19 sort of made that pretty obvious.

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That would make more sense...I remember the fourmula getting rebuilt not to long ago.
Yes, the Formula is doing fine. 580 hours on the Innovation/Volvo DPX600's.

Back to the build. This is what happens when you start with a clean sheet of paper.

Here's the completed lower unit, showing the transfer gears that feed the dual pinion gears. The entire dry-sump oiling system, including the reservoir is integrated into the drive. There are no lines to/from the boat, nor is there a need for a remote reservoir. The small port in the front with the o-ring around it feeds pressurized oil to the upper unit. That oil then drains back down into the lower unit and is cooled, so no drive shower is needed.

If you need to add spacers, Ilmor has them ready to go from 1/4" to 2". all that is needed is the spacer and longer bolts. There is enough engagement on the vertical shaft splines that no driveshaft parts or modifications are needed. Quick and easy tuning.
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Old 03-20-2010, 09:10 AM
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Dave and john were calling each other names during the glassing process, lol
I seem to remember all four of us giving each other grief that day. Does that count, Brian? I know that you Virginia guys don't consider it a good party unless a fistfight breaks out...
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Old 03-20-2010, 09:41 AM
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the black supports are new Chuck? I'm guessing to take up some of the stress with the higher drive? Also what is the CID of the 725
Rob, those are the carbon-encapsulated knees. The old DPX opening came to within 2" of the bottom, and was 14" wide by 22" high. The bottom of the Indy drive cutout will be at least 11" from the floor. The attached drawing shows the old vs. the new cutouts. You can see why we felt that a little internal reinforcing wouldn't hurt.

511 cubic inches, 10.4:1 compression, 725 hp @ 6,300, 650 ft-lbs @ 5,200. 91 recommended, but will adapt to 87 with no problems.
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Old 03-20-2010, 09:53 AM
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Rob, those are the carbon-encapsulated knees. The old DPX opening came to within 2" of the bottom, and was 14" wide by 22" high. The bottom of the Indy drive cutout will be at least 11" from the floor. The attached drawing shows the old vs. the new cutouts. You can see why we felt that a little internal reinforcing wouldn't hurt.

511 cubic inches, 10.4:1 compression, 725 hp @ 6,300, 650 ft-lbs @ 5,200. 91 recommended, but will adapt to 87 with no problems.
enjoy watching/reading these threads..I get a lot out of them...at 87 Octane what is the appr. power loss on the Ilmors..thanks Jeff
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Old 03-20-2010, 10:26 AM
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Nice Job C_Spray!
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Old 03-20-2010, 11:11 AM
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Looks awesome!!!
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