Miller

Is this what you guys are recommend for a polisher/buffer? My friend just emailed me this link as he is thinking about buying this unit. Can anyone comment?

Thanks again.

http://www.sears.com/sr/product/deta...o=YES&bidsite=

Goody76

Miller, You can use 3M finesse-it compound to take the scratches out start off with a heavy compound then move up to a lighter one then when whole boat is compouned go over it with 3M finesse-it II glazing polish, do this and it will beat all the wet sanding. the only drawback is you have to have a buffing wheel. Each bottle of 3M is about $10 dollars.

Indy

Here's your buffer:

http://makita.com/tools_Item_View.asp?id=257

Ditto on the 3M Finesse it II for the final polish. Finish it off with a good wax. Stay real fine on the wet sand paper (800-1200) and you should be ok with it. Anything more aggressive and it might get you in trouble.

Use the Meguires #W-8000 pad for the Finesse it II

Miller

Thanks for all the responses. I'm a little confused though. What is the difference between an orbital buffer and a high-speed buffer?

Also, when I looked on HomeDepot.com and Lowes.com I could not locate any high-speed buffers? Are they referred to with a different name like sander or something? Where did you guys all buy yours and what model numbers by which manufacturer did you get? That information might make life a bit easier.

How do you know that you're using too much pressure or not enough?

What is a buffing wheel and where do you get one? How would you use the buffing wheel?

Thanks again.

I think this is the game plan:

-wash his boat with Meguiar's Mirror Glaze/RV Gel Wash
-use Meguiar's diamond cut rubbing compound with the high-speed buffer on fast and a new cloth buffing pad
-follow with 3M's Finesse-It with a new cloth buffing pad
-follow with 3M's Perfect-It with a new foam buffing pad
-finish with Meguiar's Mirror Glaze Boat Pure Wax

or (this was recommend to him by Meguiar's):
-wash his boat with Meguiar's Mirror Glaze/RV Gel Wash
-follow with Meguiar's Mirror Glaze Havy Duty Oxidation Remover, applied by hand
-follow with Meguiar's Mirror Glaze Boat Polish applied with the high speed buffer on fast with a cloth buffing pad
-finish with Meguiar's Mirror Glaze Boat Pure Wax


Which would you guys think would get the best results and be the least likely to get screwed up? Also, do you think that he should or should not wet sand? Meguiar's recommended only wet sanding if necessary and to use 2000 grit wet sanding blocks if wet sanding and lots of water mixed with some liquid dish detergent and to use a wet sanding sponge around corners or sharp edges not 600 or 1000 grit as Paul suggested above. Now, I'm thoroughly confused and my friend is getting just as many contradictory answers on his own? So, who can shed some more light on this one?

Indy

Miller, read my post above...we must have submitted at the same time. It has the link to Makita.

You will get different opinions on this. All will work, but caution is the best way to proceed. A buddy of mine wet sanded his 97 Nordic (which has a great finish to start with) and acheived a mirror finish with the wet sanding/compound/polish/wax route. The wet sanding gets rid of the orange peel finish (if you look close, most boats have this finish). I'll see if he can post here to give some advise. He's rv from OSO.

gofastpilot

Goody76 , When you use the 3M Finnese It II do you use the foam pad or wool?.............Gofast

kaamacat

Miller. I've got a PorterCable variable speed #7428. Very nice to use at the mid-speeds for this type of work. I am also using the 3m waffle pads for cutting with the 3M FinesseIt-II. You probably could try a wet (w/soap in a spray bottle) 1500+ or higher, then this to test with.

The real key is dont stop in any area, dont let the machine sit, and dont hold it at too much of an angle or the backing pad will cut. (....and do not load up the paste/material). A little will go quite a long way.......just keep it moist (water mist bottle)

As for OrbitalBuffer vs the right angle type. The Orbital does not move fast enough and will just smear. You just cant get the same final finish with the SO type. (but its nice for wax application though).

good luck........Bob

Miller

"I am also using the 3m waffle pads for cutting with the 3M FinesseIt-II. You probably could try a wet (w/soap in a spray bottle) 1500+ or higher, then this to test with. "

Huh?

Thanks for all the responses. I think we're going to rent a right angle, high-speed, orbital sander/polisher from Home Depot for the weekend and use the following:


1. wash his boat with Meguiar's Mirror Glaze/RV Gel Wash
2. start with 3M's Imperial Rubbing Compound with a new cloth buffing pad
3. follow with 3M's Finesse-It Finishing Material with a new cloth buffing pad
4. follow with 3M's Perfect-It with a new foam buffing pad
5. finish with Meguiar's Mirror Glaze Boat Pure Wax

What do you guys think of this?

Bulldog

Miller
Buffing generates heat on the surface- that's where the term burn-through comes from. If you stay still on an area, it will get a case of road-rash. No matter what you are buffing with, keep the pad moving back and forth in large sweeping strokes.

A trick to use near edges is to make sure the pad is moving away from the edge and not into it or across. Until you really know how to handle the buffer, it is best to stay well away from the corners altogether, and buff them by hand.

The safest approach is to try lighter compounds on a test area first, then heavier compound if needed. Unless the scratches are real deep, the lighter stuff should work- it will just take more time.

If that does not work, only then should you wet sand then compound. 2000 grit is VERY fine, 1000 is medium, and 600 kind of coarse for sand/polish job.


Good Luck!
Bulldog AKA Ronnie

kaamacat

Miller......Sorry for the confusion.

What I meant was. If you do wetsand, try filling a spraybottle with water and a just little dishsoap. Now, instead of using just water, the soap makes it a little better and the paper wont clog.

After that, try the buffer with the 3M waffle pad (foam with "craters") with the 3mF2 stuff. For that, I carry another bottle with just water to "mist" the 3MF2 if it drys. (just to keep it slightly moist). In either case, you dont put the 3MF2 on the pad (which ever you choose). it goes on the surface. And again, NEVER stop.

The only thing I might mention. The 3MF2 is super fine (cant even feel it), but still WILL cut. When its done it should show a wet gloss look, then put a glaze or wax over it. But, if not you may need to use one of their compounds.

Bob