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Forgot to winterize

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Old 12-17-2010, 05:50 PM
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He said the building is uninsulated. There is no way it didn't freeze inside. Before I insulated my shop, it would be the same temp inside as out in the winter.
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Old 12-17-2010, 05:51 PM
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A lot of enclosed buildings stay 38-40 all winter depending how tight they are, regardless of having insulation or not. I proved this to a few friends a couple years in a row with a thermometer, a glass of water and a 24' Baja that I didn't winterize. I did turn it over a few times because the impeller will bond itself to the housing. I think you're ok but I'd at least put a trouble light in the engine hatch for cold weather. Like I said, this depends how tight the building is!
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Old 12-17-2010, 05:54 PM
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That sucks. It takes about 2 min to winter the 496. I did a buddies a few weeks ago and it was just in the nick of time. Water was slushy, when I drained it. That was shortly after Thanksgiving.

I keep mine in heated storage, and still drain the water from everything. I'd be heading over there tonight, and checking it out.

Is the 32 that just arrived this summer?

sorry to hear that.
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Old 12-17-2010, 05:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redbud35 View Post
He said the building is uninsulated. There is no way it didn't freeze inside. Before I insulated my shop, it would be the same temp inside as out in the winter.
Ditto if its in a metal pole barn with no insulation its the same temp inside as out ,good luck ...
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Old 12-17-2010, 05:59 PM
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It could be above freezing in the engine compartment for a number of reasons. If there's power out there, or if he can run an extension cord I would heat the motor compartment with a small heater until the next day that it's bearable inside. At that point try a to winterize, worst thing you can do is figure out that you have a problem early.
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Old 12-17-2010, 06:08 PM
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Yeah, what they said about the closed cooling. The block should be filled with anti-freeze unless some tool put water in there . Heat exchanger is probably shot and they are not cheap. I would warm it up (not by running) and pull the drain plugs and pump air into the system which is all it takes to winterize the 496. Hopefully the exhaust had drained. Short answer, engine is fine. Raw water side not fine.
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Old 12-17-2010, 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by 36Tango View Post
I am in Iowa and the lows have been well below zero. many days, the highs have been single digits. Something is going to be busted. Hopefully the closed cooling will save the engine block.
+1
Up til about a couple weeks ago it might have been
ok, now, it's definetely done.
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Old 12-17-2010, 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by thirdchildhood View Post
Yeah, what they said about the closed cooling. The block should be filled with anti-freeze unless some tool put water in there . Heat exchanger is probably shot and they are not cheap. I would warm it up (not by running) and pull the drain plugs and pump air into the system which is all it takes to winterize the 496. Hopefully the exhaust had drained. Short answer, engine is fine. Raw water side not fine.
That's what I was thinking. Something(s) may be/definitely are shot, but that doesn't mean everything is. There's still money to be saved by not totally neglecting the thing.
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Old 12-17-2010, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by redbud35 View Post
He's screwed.
Probably exhaust manifolds and heat exchanger.
Except that usually when a manifold cracks it leaks water into the cylinder and rusts the rings to the walls etc..

If you guys trust that air system alone you will live to regret that.

You'd be surprised by how much water stays in that system. The air drains are kinda like idiot lights in your car...

You're an idiot if you trust them.

And by the way - I'm not bitter....

Merry Christmas!


Last edited by SDFever; 12-17-2010 at 07:07 PM. Reason: My bad
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Old 12-17-2010, 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by SDFever View Post

If you guys trust that air system alone you will live to regret that.


X2
It cost a buddy 2 heat exchangers.
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