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Old 01-07-2011, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Boomer35
i
i was a little concerned throwing in a valve like that would reduce the diameter of the hose and reduce the amount of water, thus run high temps again...

im probably over thinking this,

Use a ball valve that is rated 'full' flow'.
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Old 01-07-2011, 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by 30Special
Looks like a great product, and I love that you dont have to start the engine(s) to use it. At $800 each, I'm guessing this can be made at home for a lot less.

I'd be interested in seeing the directions and how it's hooked up, as well as the parts that make up the system.
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Old 01-08-2011, 07:12 AM
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I installed my flush system just after the sea water pump. I don't run the engine just hook up the hose & let the water run for a while. Water runs out of the exhaust & some water runs out of the pickup on the drive. Nice & quiet for the neighbors & seems to work well. No valves to forget to reopen after flushing, just put the cap back on.
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Old 01-08-2011, 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Boomer35
that is exactly what i was thinking of doing
Personal opinion, and what I did, was installed these with the locking lever, I was worried the extra pounding could allow the lever to vibrate? Paranoid maybe, but for an extra few dollars per vavle it let me run knowing the water could not get cut down!

Also I went up a size to 1.5" with the proper barb fitting of 1.25" for the hose. Just a little larger inside the valve for no worries of decreased water flow

This allows me to shut off the water for overnighting on the water 'just in case' something would leak
as well it allows for on the water repairs just as long as its not the hose from the drive to this valve

I initially installed this for being able to run on the hose in the driveway, thus also allowing winterizing easier.
Just when i winterize I open the valve so the antifreeze can go back into the drive!

I went off of this system, but built it myself.
http://www.eddiemarine.com/store/car...&p=26507&c=309
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