Insulation and heating question on shops
02-26-2011, 02:39 PM
#24
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We hVe a waste oil heater in our warehouse also... About 2 years old... 500 gallon tank plumbed into it and we can empty that 1.5-2 times a winter depending on how bad of a winter it is
02-26-2011, 06:54 PM
#25
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02-26-2011, 09:28 PM
#26
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The radiant heat that people are talking about is in the floor. You can make it for as large of an area as you want you may just need to add more manifolds. If you got this way you NEED to make sure you thermal breat your floor from the walls or you will be paying to heat your walls and outside.
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02-27-2011, 07:38 AM
#27
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Just Radiant heat. You won't be sorry going that route. The actual heat bill for the garage is only $240 last month as the elect bill is about $60. If it is 0 outside and you are laying on the floor you will be working with just a short sleeve shirt on. One thing to remember if you put radiant heat in the ceiling is that you will need fans to lower the heat off the ceiling and that is costing you more money. I made it all thur winter until January averaging about $75 a month. January as you know was really cold and snowy.
02-27-2011, 08:44 AM
#28
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Just Radiant heat. You won't be sorry going that route. The actual heat bill for the garage is only $240 last month as the elect bill is about $60. If it is 0 outside and you are laying on the floor you will be working with just a short sleeve shirt on. One thing to remember if you put radiant heat in the ceiling is that you will need fans to lower the heat off the ceiling and that is costing you more money. I made it all thur winter until January averaging about $75 a month. January as you know was really cold and snowy.
thats a new one , care to elaborate
02-27-2011, 11:07 AM
#29
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Is the concrete already in your shop? If not a geothermal heat pump may help you reduce your costs a lot.
I agree with others though - you have to use metal or drywall on the walls. Plywood is flammable (and expensive). You can drywall and not mud and tape it if you want to go cheap and you'd be better protected.
+ 1 on the ceiling fan and lowering the ceiling as much as possible, and insulating the dropped ceiling.
I agree with others though - you have to use metal or drywall on the walls. Plywood is flammable (and expensive). You can drywall and not mud and tape it if you want to go cheap and you'd be better protected.
+ 1 on the ceiling fan and lowering the ceiling as much as possible, and insulating the dropped ceiling.
02-27-2011, 10:16 PM
#30
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Ok after a day of research and lots of thread reading I have come to a decision. I will be installing a 40ft 80k radiant natural gas tube heater in my shop. One side of my shop is for the boat and the other is basically open space and some shelving. I will install the heater on the opposite side approximately 15 feet from the tube. The tube is rated for 1800 sqft. I like the idea of these for 2 reasons 1) they don't stir up as much dust on the boat 2) it heats the concrete also. Luckily I have a spare shop heater that is rated for 1400 sqft and is all electric so if this thing doesn't cut it I will tie it in with it. I went and viewed a shop today with radiant tubes and couldn't believe the difference. The shop was smaller than mine but I live the overall design and energy savings. I also will be installing a metal gloss white ceiling with blow in cellulose insulation and r13 vinyl back on the walls covered by dry wall.
