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bottom paint help

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Old 04-19-2011, 07:52 PM
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Default bottom paint help

I need some help here, my boat has black bottom paint from the previous owner. I plan to keep it on a trailer so I no longer need it. I was looking at different types of iterlux hard bottom paints but im not sure what brand or type is good for peformance and trailer use. I would like to remove the antifowling paint and buff the gelcoat but I dont think its going to buff out. Anyone have any ideas of what to do or use?
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Last edited by seebold 236; 04-19-2011 at 07:57 PM.
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Old 04-19-2011, 09:18 PM
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Just curious, but why don't you think it will buff out? And what are you looking for? If it is below the water line you're not really going to be able to see it. It may look a little stained or something, but many bottoms do. Unless you want to repaint the sides up to the light gray stripe, or re-do the sides entirely, I wouldn't worry too much about it.

Many people on here have had good results with Easy-off oven cleaner for removing bottom paint. I'd give that a go first, and try to rub it out (personally I'd pay someone to rub the bottom of the hull out, I HATE that job, but to each their own...). It will be much cheaper and at least you'll have a starting point.

There are several quality automotive finishes that are fine for the job though if you're unhappy with your results. PPG concept seems pretty popular/cost effective paint that would take care of it.
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Old 04-19-2011, 10:07 PM
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Removing bottom paint is very time consumming. The quickest and cheapest method is to simply roll on new bottom paint (Interlux is a great bottom paint). Otherwise use Easy Off or Gel Stripper, let it soak in, and scrape it off. It won't get all of the bottom paint off. Next start sanding ,coarse to fine grit. Finish off with wet sanding and wax it. Should come out fine but it's alot of elbow grease. Good luck.
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Old 04-20-2011, 01:40 AM
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I just spent the last few days stripping my boatís bottom. Paint was so thick that I had to start with a 8Ē disk grinder with 24 grit sanding disk. Then spent the next 5 days basically blue printing the bottom but without the boat being upside down.
Like you I also trailer. Had no need for bottom paint. Slowed the boat down. The paint dried out and cracked and ended up looking chalky black instead of gloss. I didnít have the option of buffing out the bottom due to the boat being 40 years old and probably had paint on it for 30 of those years with a layer of barnical rings in there. After all the work I did I was not going to use bottom paint. So I did some research and options were limited to bottom paint or spraying a 2 part paint. Again no bottom paint and I donít mind spraying (plan on doing the rest of the boat in the next couple weeks) but for the bottom I didnít want the mess, spraying upside down, having to move all the blocks and set up and spray again. Then there is touch up if anything hits it. Just to much hassle. Then I ran across something on a forum of guys that painted their cars with foam rollers and Intelux or Rust-oleum paint (or any single part oil based Alkyd enamel paint). The first issue they came up with was the paint took a long time to dry and then would stay soft for weeks later. So then they came up with this (this thread was a hundred pages plus http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/...&fpart=68&vc=1 ) from farm tractor and implement stores. Alkyd enamel hardener http://www.amazon.com/Valspar-018-00.../dp/B000LNY1MY
Add 2ozs to a quart of paint, let it sit for a half hour and roller the paint on or brush. 3 hours itís dry to the touch, 24hrs (and it rained over night) and itís as hard as a rock . I have 2 boats next to it that I sprayed and the paint is already as hard. The only issue is if you use this stuff to spray an enamel you must use a fresh air supply respirator. Rolling, no issues but I still used a filtered mask.
I mixed it with Rust-oleum topside paint. Self leveling, has a good gloss, can wet sand and clear coat (Iím clearing the rest of the boat and where the side and bottom paints meet), has a higher gloss then it normally does, can re-coat in about 3 hrs as compared to 24hrs for normal oil base paints and again itís hard as a rock in such a short time.


Last edited by f_inscreenname; 04-20-2011 at 02:17 AM.
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Old 04-20-2011, 11:37 AM
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No need to sand it off. Use captain lee's spra strip removal. I just used it on a boston whaler project I'm doing. Spray it on, let it sit for 10 minutes and bottom paint wipes right off with no damage to gelcoat. If its not a really old hull you can bring the gelcoat back. Lots of corvette guys using the same thing with good results.

Last edited by TexomaPowerboater; 04-20-2011 at 11:45 AM.
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Old 05-01-2011, 10:15 PM
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When using the easy off oven cleaner, how long do I need to let it sit, and if left too long will it hurt the gell coat? And as far as repainting how smooth does rolling on the paint come out? Does it need to be sanded and buffed, I have a lot of paint that would be above water line.
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Old 05-01-2011, 10:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seebold 236 View Post
When using the easy off oven cleaner, how long do I need to let it sit, and if left too long will it hurt the gell coat? And as far as repainting how smooth does rolling on the paint come out? Does it need to be sanded and buffed, I have a lot of paint that would be above water line.
i just left some on all weekend without any damage to the gel. I think it will dry out before it bites in. When using E-z-off you want to nurse it anyway.
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