Oil Filter stuck Tried Everything!
I'm trying to get off a quicksilver oil filter off on my 525. I tried filter wrench, then filter wrench with sand paper for grip, that's when the wrench broke. Then I went to the screw driver route, all that did was rip the sides of the filter. I don't get it, this was put on by a pretty reputable place in So. Cal, WTF???
Any suggestions? |
When you do get it off be sure the gasket comes with it. I learned the hard way.
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i usually use a strap type wrench for tough ones, to late for that if you've taken a screwdriver to it. Its funny though i have had trouble with overly tight filters that took huge torque to remove but i was the one that put them on and i never use anything but a clean dry towel for a final snug. Must be something with the seal after it goes through a few thermal cycles.
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Mine was the same way last winter. I ended up making a "tool" because the canister was torn apart. Took a piece of wood and using the new one as a template, put two bolts through the wood that would go into the openings on the screw-on part. Got what was left of it off easily. My bilge is still a mess though.
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Originally Posted by glassdave
(Post 3427469)
i usually use a strap type wrench for tough ones, to late for that if you've taken a screwdriver to it. Its funny though i have had trouble with overly tight filters that took huge torque to remove but i was the one that put them on and i never use anything but a clean dry towel for a final snug. Must be something with the seal after it goes through a few thermal cycles.
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Is there any way to use a bigger handle on the screw driver, put a steel tube on the handle and that would increase your tork. And just get a good turn on it maybe
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Epoxy?
Originally Posted by glassdave
(Post 3427469)
i usually use a strap type wrench for tough ones, to late for that if you've taken a screwdriver to it. Its funny though i have had trouble with overly tight filters that took huge torque to remove but i was the one that put them on and i never use anything but a clean dry towel for a final snug. Must be something with the seal after it goes through a few thermal cycles.
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I tore up a couple last year a couple hours before I was supposed to leave for JOTJ.
I ended up using a screwdriver all the way through as close to the front of the filter as possible - I had to put a breaker bar on it to get it loose. It was a MESS, and I SWORE I was going to skip the run and sell the boat.... |
Ok, I am very good with an air chisel, but I had one stuck on a truck once.I cut everything off you will just have the base plate left.There will be holes in it insert a small air chisel in one at an angle and walk it off.There is not a lot of margin for error but if your careful it should work.I don't know what it is with boat filters but I hardly tighten them at all and they are always tight when it comes time to change.
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I struggle with mine too. This year I got to use the gigantic channel-locks on em (what fun !!!). I had to squeeze the bejesus outta the canisters. So are we putting them on too tight ? I also use a clean, dry towel...then just hand power to install. I think it says on the box to go 1/4 turn past initial gasket contact. I was always leary of that, so I turned em a bit more (probably too much). Are we all tightening them too far ? :(
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Silly question, but you guyshaving trouble with removing your filters are you putting oil on the gasket before putting the filter on?
Sorry no addtional advice on removal other then what has already been mentioned |
yes...was taught that when I was about 7...lol. I think personally that I'm turning them too much for fear of oil getting all over my bilge while running. :(
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Originally Posted by tinman565
(Post 3427572)
I struggle with mine too. This year I got to use the gigantic channel-locks on em (what fun !!!). I had to squeeze the bejesus outta the canisters. So are we putting them on too tight ? I also use a clean, dry towel...then just hand power to install. I think it says on the box to go 1/4 turn past initial gasket contact. I was always leary of that, so I turned em a bit more (probably too much). Are we all tightening them too far ? :(
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Originally Posted by Expensive Date
(Post 3427632)
I got tired of fighting with them so I started going only 1/4 turn.They don't leak and are easier to get off.And I always put oil on the O-ring.
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Originally Posted by fastscarab22
(Post 3427484)
Is there any way to use a bigger handle on the screw driver, put a steel tube on the handle and that would increase your tork. And just get a good turn on it maybe
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Originally Posted by boats74
(Post 3427471)
Mine was the same way last winter. I ended up making a "tool" because the canister was torn apart. Took a piece of wood and using the new one as a template, put two bolts through the wood that would go into the openings on the screw-on part. Got what was left of it off easily. My bilge is still a mess though.
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While in the bilge I took a sawzall to it, got rid of 90% of the can, sawed into the base of the can on the edge so my screw driver could get the most amount of torque, and I tried my best whacking the screw driver with the hammer, didn't budge, but my knuckle on my hand is nice and bruised.!!!!
I'm just going to remove the hoses and the adapter, put in a vice. This way I have a much better swing and if I miss and destroy my adapter, I DON'T CARE because I'm so pissed right now!!!!!!! EOM |
I used a pipe wrench down by the base of the filter. It will crush a little then it should break loose. Put a pipe on the wrench if you have to. Good luck
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If your gonna do that...then try getting the filter top (part with the o-ring) into the vise. Squeeze the nuts outta it...and turn your adapter. This way your not whacking anything. :drink:
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Originally Posted by mudslide
(Post 3427680)
I used a pipe wrench down by the base of the filter. It will crush a little then it should break loose. Put a pipe on the wrench if you have to. Good luck
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good luck...another if needed....
http://cgi.ebay.com/MerCruiser-454-7...item3a63814d60 |
Originally Posted by Comanche3Six
(Post 3427690)
good luck...another if needed....
http://cgi.ebay.com/MerCruiser-454-7...item3a63814d60 |
Originally Posted by bert4332
(Post 3427693)
Thanx but I don't think that's the same one for my 525.
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Not sure if your adapter is the same but on my 502mpi i simply took off the oil lines then unscrewed the center piece from the bottom, Came right off. Chisel was my next option if that didnt work. Will be a little messy but should come right off.
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Take a utility knife and carefully work it under the gasket. If you get half way around the filter it should be enough to break it loose.
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Last year I had to use a 24" pipe wrench with a 3 ft cheater, wrench had to grip the rolled edge or flange of filter to get a somewhat good bite. Is there ANY gap between the filter flange and adapter? If so, I thought that the next time I had problems, I would get thickest shim type stock that would fit between and use it to "injure" the rubber gasket, if it would not budge with normal filter wrench pressure. Haven't tried it yet as my next oil change (rebuilt engines) comes this fall.
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Originally Posted by BAJA342
(Post 3427792)
Take a utility knife and carefully work it under the gasket. If you get half way around the filter it should be enough to break it loose.
I used a small hooked pick and I pulled out small pieces of the gasket. It finally gave way. |
First try a quality oil filter removal wrench , if the filter starts to collapse , stop now ! go get a CHAIN wrench and apply it as close to the base as you can and away you go !
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Same trouble on my 525s. Used very large channel lock pliers, just kept crushing and twisting.
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I've had the same problem. The normal oil filter wrench (with the tightening loop) didn't do the job for me...it just kept slipping. Eventually had to turn to an oil filter wrench, crushed the filter a little bit so that the pliers really locked in, climbed into the bilge all contorted so that I could get some leverage and crank on that SOB for about 1/2 hr until it moved. After that I didn't tighten it as far...hand tight after that, with just a little crank from the filter wrench for good measure.
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I finally got it resolved. I removed the adapter and unscrewed the two hoses. I placed the base plate of the filter in the vice, of course the nut on the threading was one size bigger than the largest socket I had in my tool box. So I took a 15" cresent wrench to the nut, had to bang away at it with a mallet, finally the base gave way. Once I made the first 1/2" turn, it was easy from there. I marked up the surface area of the adapter pretty good with the screw driver when I was in the bilge, but none of the marks went straight through from the inner lip to the outer, I figure if I crank down on the new filter real tight that will prevent it from leaking!!! :evilb::evilb::evilb::drink:
I oiled up my K&N real well, hand tightened to + 1/4", then waited 5 min, and turned back 1/8". In all seriousness, I would hate to have paid for 4-5 hrs worth of labor for such a simple task from a mechanic. Unreal, you get a $450 bill for $13 oil filter exchange. |
Glad you got it off sir. From now on...I'm only going 1/4 turn past gasket contact. :drink:
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I have used a hose clamp in the past; place it over the filter; tighten it up; put a screwdriver on the screw and hit the screwdriver with a hammer.
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I usually end up unscrewing the lines, pulling the filter bases off, put he base in rag wrapped vise, then do the screw drive routine thru the filter. A real pain when you have to do this three times every time you change oil. I dont "crank" the new filters on either, but every time they just dont want to come back off.
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1) Are you guys cleaning and then lubing the housing/gasket surface before you install the new filters?
2) Are y'all warming the engine oil before you change it? The suspends any particles in the oil so it drains with the oil, and it also allows the filter and base to warm up providing an easier loosening of the filter. 3) For all yous with inverted filters, that is--with the opening of the filter facing DOWN, are you piercing the filter TDC all the way through, and letting the now pressure released oil to drain back into the pan? The above tips make for extremely easy oil changes. I also only use Napa Wix Racing oil filters which I believe are made very stout in addition to their oil filtering capabilities. I put mine on with less than a 1/4 turn of tightness with an oil wrench, and have over 1000 combined engine hours with no issues with oil filters that were that tough to get off. |
I'm anal about oil changes and do all of my own in all my vehicles / toys and the only F-ing one that I ever have a problem with is the boat.
I tried that put a hole in the filter trick and that made it worse. all that does is ensure you'll make a bigger mess because oil comes out both ends. Mine are always fused to the filter base. I always lube the filter rings well and still they are beyond hard to get off. So, I feel for ya. good luck. |
Originally Posted by bert4332
(Post 3427688)
That's what I'm going to do once I get it in the vice, if my pipe wrench is big enough, I don't have any can left, just the base plate screwed onto the adapter, on bammarine's schematic, it looks like the threaded fitting has a nut, so I just might just unscrew the fitting out of the adapter. I was stoked today too, finally a real easy oil change with the hose on the bottom of the pan, slip it through the hole and emptied right into the oil container, no more pumping it through the dipstick. But of course, Murphy's law kicking me in the nutz once again with the filter, just can't catch a break!!!
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Originally Posted by VetteLT193
(Post 3428217)
I
I tried that put a hole in the filter trick and that made it worse. all that does is ensure you'll make a bigger mess because oil comes out both ends. |
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